I had redone my hatch with 5200 last year, it leaks after just one season, when I step on the lexan, I can see where it is no longer bonding to the lexan.
This is most likely because your hatch was never designed for polycarbonate and was designed for CAST ACRYLIC. Polyuretahnes & polysulfides can leach the plasticizers out of polycarb and cast acrylic and are contraindicated with most hatch lenses. Sika 295UV is one of the only PU's designed for hatch lenses but you need to also use the special primer.
Definetly will be redoing the hatch in the spring and trying out the 795.
Though the experience wasn't a total loss, I did manage to learn how to handle a lot of goopy stuff and not get it all over the place.
The secret with sealing hatches is to get it CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN and allow the proper cure time. You also need to use the proper material, most often cast acrylic, and then Dow 795 or similar BUT it must have adequate film thickness, you need shims when curing, or it will still fail.
Essentially, I taped up the lexan everywhere the 'glue wasn't supposed to be and taped up the alluminum frame ....everywhere the "glue " wasn't supposed to bond to.
Unless your hatch has "cross bars" to support the Lexan it was NOT designed for Lexan and was designed for cast acrylic.
Lexan foreshortens/flexes when stepped on thus breaking the seal. More than one owner has landed in a cabin due to using the WRONG material in a hatch lens replacement.
Lexan/polycarbonate is pretty much shatter proof but flexes a LOT more easily. Cast acrylic flexes less, and can be cracked, but holds up in UV a lot better. The vast majority of plastic ports and hatches are made of cast acrylic not polycarbonate. Only some Bomar's are made from Lexan and they have cross bars under the glass.