Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of Old 12-05-2013
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Re: Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan

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Originally Posted by overbored View Post
Dow 795. McMaster has it.
McMaster-Carr
yeah thanks I know, issue is I dont cant import certain things down to el salvador...

one tube of sealant ends up costing $100, and I have to wait 3 weeks...

hence my questions on alternate sealants if anybody had experience with...

I mean I could use 5200 but I dont want to mess with them in 6 months to a year

anybdoy use only manual methods to seal?
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Re: Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan

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Originally Posted by hriehl1 View Post
Last winter, I rebuilt 45-year-old portlights using Dow 795 to secure the new plexiglass in the U-channel aluminum frames. After a 2-week cure, I used butyl tape bedding and rivets to secure the portlight assemblies back into their original cutouts. No leaks yet.

Dow 795 and butyl tape are both easy to work with and highly recommended.
did it matter what color butyl tape you used? I have seen the black stuff at the hardware store

maybe just this and the rubber original gasket?

thanks
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post #23 of Old 12-05-2013
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Re: Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan

I would definitely not use the Dow 795 I have 35 years in the residential window business I used it in the past, very weak adhesive link between glass and vinyl and its SILICONE. I dont like silicone on a boat, too difficult to remove the residue when it fails. I have used products similar to this
Quote:
PRODUCT: CLEAR, SEALANT. SOLVENT-FREE 100% SOLIDS POLYESTHER ADHESIVE, CLEAR COLOR, 10.1 OZ TUBES. 24 TUBES/CASE. PRICE/CASE.

DESCRIPTION: Chem Link CLEAR is a high quality moisture curing elastomeric sealant formulated with polyether technology for use in virtually any high visibility sealing application.

FEATURES -- BENEFITS

Quick Curing: Cures much quicker than Polyurethane based products.
Dries clear. No color matching needed.
UV resistant.
Interior and exterior.
100% solids, non-shrinking
Installing windows, doors and skylights
Pond Repairs.
Showers (non-ponding areas).
Bonds cove base, tub surroundings, and fiberglass, tile and glass
Bonds landscape blocks, concrete, masonry, ceramic tile and ceiling tile
Excellent for decorative brick and stone
Even safe for expanded polystyrene foam!
100% solids -- No shrinkage.
Single component -- no mixing.
No solvents -- Safe to use indoors or in confined spaces; no odor after curing (mild ester odor before cure).
Unique polymer bonds to damp masonry.
Gun grade -- No special tools or mixing.

USES and APPLICATIONS:
Substrates:

Aluminum
Block and masonry
Brick
Concrete
EPDM
Foam
Galvanized metal
Glass / glazing
Masonry
Polystyrene foam
Pre-cast concrete
Stone
Wood, Treated Wood (cured)

Limitations: Do not use with silicone sealants. Do not apply at temperatures below 30F.

TECHNICAL DATA:
Composition: Chem Link CLEAR is a 100% solids, solvent-free formulated silyl-terminated polyether adhesive.
Solvent Content: CLEAR contains no solvents or V.O.C.’s.
Proposition 65: This product contains no Proposition 65 listed materials.

INSTALLATION:
Bonding surfaces must be clean and free from dirt, oil and debris. If surfaces require cleaning, use alcohol. See data sheet for more detailed instructions.

TECHNICAL DATA SHEET

MSDS SHEET

Questions?
Email us at sales@bestmaterials.com or
Call us at 1-800-474-7570 or 602-272-8128
You'll get a prompt reply!
I have no affiliation with these folks, the company I dealt with went out of business and the product I used was packed under their label, this seems to be the same type.
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Last edited by Faster; 12-05-2013 at 01:29 PM.
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post #24 of Old 12-05-2013
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Re: Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan

I would stick to the three sealants recommended by Tony at Select plastics.

GE SG-4000, Sika Flex 295UV with primer or Dow 795. Anything else is an experiment and who wants to re-do this in a year?

sulli

It says "showers (non ponding areas)" I take that to mean it cannot sit with water on it. Doesn't sound good for a boat if that is true.

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post #25 of Old 12-05-2013
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Re: Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan

As has been said already, plasticizer migration is a serious problem when sealing plastics. DO NOT use a polyurethane based sealant on any plastic, polycarbonate, acrylic, copoly. Stay with the silicone based STRUCTURAL sealants. 795 was reformulated a few years back and is now considered structural but 995 is better. As far as polycarbonate in the sun . . . my company has been supplying it for 30 years. We are a skylight manufacturer. Draw your own conclusions. We moved from cast acrylic (which we invented) because polycarbonate is more impact resistant, ie, more flexible. We now supply impact modified acrylic in lieu poly and have moved to a cheaper material (copolyester) for commercial applications.

The best way to install any plastic with silicone is to adhere the material with structural glazing tape, 3/16" min and about 1/4" from the edge. Mask the surface of the glazing and the perimeter of the mounting area leaving a 1/4" gape around the perimeter. This adheres the glazing and supplies the space that others have suggested by shims. Inject the silicone under the glazing and apply a bead completely around it. Now comes the REAL IMPORTANT part: tool your joint. I use tooling spray and a plastic spoon for a joint that looks like a perfect rubber gasket. If you don't tool the joint, it isn't complete or watertight. Water will find it's way in. Sealant manufactures won't warranty their products if the joints aren't tooled. And don't believe any testosterone fueled boasts about never needing to tool. I will stand on, "If they say that, they don't know what they're talking about."
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post #26 of Old 12-05-2013
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Re: Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan

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Originally Posted by christian.hess View Post
i need help guys...and I dont want ot order sealants from the states

Im about to do my portlights, they are the flush sealed type

they have a gasket(rubber) and had what seems to be butyl tape AND screws dammit

we do not have ANY of the sealants mentioned except for 5200

we have MANY window and construction type sealants...my best guess was one made by dap or similar

it was water based very felixible and stayed soft unlike 5200

would this be a good sealant to try out?

what other brands names that home depot or similar carry that I could search for down here?

thanks
I have a little material cheat sheet - sorry I won't share it because I assembled it over time from multiple sources, some unverified, therefore double check this information if you want to use it.

The most flexible non silicone on my list is 3M 4000UV (Polyurethane) with an elongation at break of > 700% - much greater than 4200, 5200 or most industrial silicones. I believe this is what Morris uses for deck hardware. It's 3M so if you can get 5200 maybe you can get 4000.
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Re: Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan

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Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
Unless your hatch has "cross bars" to support the Lexan it was NOT designed for Lexan and was designed for cast acrylic.

Lexan foreshortens/flexes when stepped on thus breaking the seal. More than one owner has landed in a cabin due to using the WRONG material in a hatch lens replacement.

Lexan/polycarbonate is pretty much shatter proof but flexes a LOT more easily. Cast acrylic flexes less, and can be cracked, but holds up in UV a lot better. The vast majority of plastic ports and hatches are made of cast acrylic not polycarbonate. Only some Bomar's are made from Lexan and they have cross bars under the glass.
My hatches are of unsupported polycarbonate and they flex very little. But they are 3/4" thick

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Re: Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan

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My hatches are of unsupported polycarbonate and they flex very little. But they are 3/4" thick
What brand of hatch? Or did you replace the lens yourself?

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Re: Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan

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Originally Posted by DonScribner View Post
795 was reformulated a few years back and is now considered structural but 995 is better.
This sounds very good. Elongation is 525% and the price is reasonable.

"Dow Corning® 995 Silicone Structural Sealant is a one-component, self-priming, shelf-stable, neutral-cure, elastomeric adhesive specifically formulated for silicone structural glazing and exhibits excellent unprimed adhesion to most building substrates. This product has superior unprimed adhesion for structural glazing applications for hurricane or impact rated windows and doors. It has a movement capability of +/- 50%."

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Re: Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan

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What brand of hatch? Or did you replace the lens yourself?
On most boats, S2 molded the "Frame" as part of the cabin top and then used either 1/2" or 3/4" lexan cut from flat stock for the hatch. The lexan was drilled and tapped so that hinges and latches could be attached directly.
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