Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan - SailNet Community

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  #1  
Old 12-13-2004
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Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan

Im seriously considering replacing my ports with fixed lexan sheet , and I need to know the proper adhesive/sealer , I read that 4200/5200 , Boatlife is not advised .
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Old 12-13-2004
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Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan

The best sealer I''ve found for lexan IS THE boatLIFE--- Life Seal Sealant #1170. The stuff is real messy, but that''s what makes it stick so good. If you can manage to work it in without touching it with your fingers it''ll come out great. Even if you use rubber gloves, The stuff doesn''t want to come off of the gloves and gets everywhere. Once it cures it stays fairly soft, exactly what you want for a flexing hull/deck.
It works good on teak too....................._/)
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Old 12-13-2004
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Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan

But is Life Caulk another polysulfide thats not recommended for plastics/lexan?
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Old 12-13-2004
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Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan

Corrected my first post NO on the Life Seal Sealant!
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Old 12-14-2004
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Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan

The best product I have found for Lexan type lenses/windows is Dow Corning 795 construction adhesive.

The caveats are that it takes 7 days to set up... don''t be in a hurry, make sure you prep well, follow the instructions, clean up immediately.

This is what the "Pro''s" use when re-glazing ports, hatches, cabin lights.
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Old 12-03-2013
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Re: Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan

I had redone my hatch with 5200 last year, it leaks after just one season, when I step on the lexan, I can see where it is no longer bonding to the lexan.
Definetly will be redoing the hatch in the spring and trying out the 795.
Though the experience wasn't a total loss, I did manage to learn how to handle a lot of goopy stuff and not get it all over the place.
Essentially, I taped up the lexan everywhere the 'glue wasn't supposed to be and taped up the alluminum frame ....everywhere the "glue " wasn't supposed to bond to.
Put a lot of goop on the frame, pushed the glass down, clean all the stuff that oozed out on top, went down below and cleaned up all the stuuf down there, waited maybe an hour or so and started peeling of the tape below, first the frame, then the glass.
Came out clean, looks professional, but using the wrong stuff, it leaks now.
Still, it was good all season the lexan I can save, the frame I'll clean and do it all again in the spring.
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Old 12-03-2013
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Re: Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan

I second the 795, re-did the pilothouse windows in our boat (Lexan) a couple of years ago, no leaks at all (PNW). I sanded the Lexan in the areas that were going to be covered/sealed in order to give the sealant something to "grab". Faster (Ron) here on SN recommended the DC 795 and I'm glad he did, good stuff.
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Old 12-04-2013
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Re: Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan

Third vote for 795. Used it on our last boat and never had a problem.
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Old 12-04-2013
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Re: Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan

I bought some to use on my last boat, then sold it before I got a chance to. Seemed like the best option to me
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Old 12-04-2013
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Re: Proper adhesive/sealer for Lexan

Dow 795, GE SG-4000, or Sika Flex 295 UV with primer are the best choices.
The details are here: Which Sealants To Use
Select Plastics is the largest marine hatch repair facility in the world.

Adele
Lexan is not the best choice for a hatch unless it was lexan originally. Only Bomar hatches with the metal cross beams use lexan. Every other hatch manufacturer - Lewmar, Bomar, etc all use cast acrylic for the very reason you found. Lexan deflects when stepped on and the seal will break - regardless of sealant type. Cast acrylic is also much more scratch resistant and will last years without crazing, lexan crazes in a few years.

Roadtool
If you have not yet purchased the lexan use cast acrylic (plexiglass) instead for the reasons above. Lots of good information at the link posted.
sony2000 likes this.
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