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  #11  
Old 12-26-2013
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Re: to cut or not to cut. that is the question.

Stainless toggle bolts
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  #12  
Old 12-26-2013
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Re: to cut or not to cut. that is the question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by azguy View Post
Cut one of these in and you'll have plenty of room to work on the cleat. I recall you saying you were good with wood.

Attachment 16674
what is that? a small storage shelf?
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Old 12-26-2013
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Re: to cut or not to cut. that is the question.

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Originally Posted by captain jack View Post
what is that? a small storage shelf?
Yes, and they don't need to be wood....

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Old 12-26-2013
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Re: to cut or not to cut. that is the question.

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Originally Posted by Minnewaska View Post
How do you figure the manufacturer got the plate/nuts under there?
they probably installed the hardware before the deck and hull were bonded together. someone correct me if i am wrong but, i believe that is usually the way they do it.

it's like the way auto manufacturers install the egine before the body is put on the chasis. that way it's only the repair mechanic that has to cuss at the hard to reach parts.
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Old 12-26-2013
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Re: to cut or not to cut. that is the question.

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Originally Posted by Faster View Post
Yes, and they don't need to be wood....

that's a good idea. i could fabricate one out of azak. works like wood. already white. never ever ever rots. no UV deterioration, either. have to make sure to put drain holes in it, though. otherwise it would just be a place to trap water.
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Last edited by captain jack; 12-26-2013 at 11:18 PM.
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Re: to cut or not to cut. that is the question.

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Originally Posted by deniseO30 View Post
Stainless toggle bolts
another good idea. you're good. i had considered toggle bolts but they take a bigger hole than the bolt and i was worried about play because they rely completely on bolt tension. but those are toggle straps. i looked them up. never seen them before. that's seriously worth checking out. a shelf or an access panel might be good but not cutting a hole is better.
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Re: to cut or not to cut. that is the question.

lots of great input. i think i will look into checking out Denise's ideas, first. if one, or both, of them solve the problem, i won't need to cut any holes. if those ideas dson't fix it, i will have to decide if i want an access panel or a storage compartment. one benefit of the storage compartment is that it looks like it was intentional and not just an access hole.
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Re: to cut or not to cut. that is the question.

Even if the toggle bolts work for reinstall, you still need access to remove what's there, if a bolt spins you're back where you started.

Going through the aft quarter bulkhead has the advantage of not risking a deck leak, but it has the disadvantage of turning this into a two-person job. A temporary cutout near the work means you can do it yourself.

If you build a pocket shelf just make the floor angled down, with drainholes in the facing, as they've done. Not sure it's worth the time and effort depending on the cost of one like that pictured. Marine consignment stores often have that sort of thing fairly cheap.

Those pocket shelves are a great place to toss a winch handle ... (remember? you're in the winch world now ) or the odd bit of line, a handheld GPS, VHF, etc etc.
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Old 12-27-2013
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Re: to cut or not to cut. that is the question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by captain jack View Post
they probably installed the hardware before the deck and hull were bonded together. someone correct me if I am wrong but, I believe that is usually the way they do it.

it's like the way auto manufacturers install the engine before the body is put on the chassis. that way it's only the repair mechanic that has to cuss at the hard to reach parts.
Correct. Very common on a production boat. When I replaced the fuel tank on my CS27 I also replaced the hoses. The vent was installed high on the transom and the cockpit well is only about 3" from the transom at the bottom and tapers to about 2" at the top. I cut a hole and installed an access plate like the one posted earlier.

The toggle bolts are probably the best least invasive solution. We sell similar ones where I work, have been meaning to buy a few for the toolbox.
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Old 12-27-2013
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Re: to cut or not to cut. that is the question.

This is what I would try as to removing the existing bolts.Try turning the head of the bolt with an electric drill as fast as you can, and pull up on the broken part of the cleat. This will jam the nut to the underside and with some friction and the bolt turning fast enough, it might come out. If you could use air tool and it was a hex head bolt that would work, but I am sure you are dealing with a slotted flat head bolt. That will be harder to spin. If that does not work then I would take a sawzall with metal blade or dremel and cut through the cleat and bolt. You may not be able to retrieve the stud or nut, but what harm can they do?

Now to fix without cutting access....Blind Rivet Nut will do the trick. Counter sinking holes deep enough so the head of the blind rivet will sit flush allowing the new cleat to sit down flush. Be careful not to over counter sink and weaken the hole or larger counter sink than the base of the cleat. Also, countersinking holes in fiberglass is know to help prevent cracking. See Blind nut rivet info here... Blind Rivet Nuts - Bolt Products, Inc.
I see SS 304 and 316 listed here... http://www.sherex.com/pdf/Dejond%20T...%20Catalog.pdf

And don't forger to bed the new cleat.
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Last edited by Delta-T; 12-27-2013 at 02:37 AM.
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