Teak cockpit table treatment question - SailNet Community

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  #1  
Old 12-29-2013
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Teak cockpit table treatment question

I have a solid teak cockpit table with two teak folding leaves. These are untreated, as is the rest of my teak; but since this table gets used for eating and other things it soaks up grease and other stains in its current state.

I would like to find a long-lasting and low maintenance covering for the table. While varnish is the classic approach, I am afraid of it chipping and thus becoming a maintenance chore.

What options are there out there apart from varnish? The picture below was taken before the table was cleaned up with a bit of water and oxalic and shows stains from food and from an Aloe Vera plant pot.

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Old 12-29-2013
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Re: Teak cockpit table treatment question

Although I prefer varnish, here is an alternative: System Three: Projects: Bartop Coating with MirrorCoat
I've never used it.
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Old 12-29-2013
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Re: Teak cockpit table treatment question

What about teak oil...??

It's easy to throw a coat on when it starts looking shabby..
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Old 12-29-2013
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Re: Teak cockpit table treatment question

You can apply just a few coats of highly thinned varnish, which doesn't build to a gloss, but will seal and protect. Looks satin. I also like a product named Bristol Finish, which can be applied the same way, but thinned with acetone and dries in one hour. Big advantage.

You're going to need a good sanding before applying anything.
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Old 12-29-2013
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Re: Teak cockpit table treatment question

Least amount of work:
light sanding
rub down with teak oil now and again
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Re: Teak cockpit table treatment question

An alternative solution would be a cover that matches your canvas. Varnish the table to perfection and then make a cover to slip on over it when its not in use, thus protecting it from weather, etc.
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Old 12-29-2013
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Re: Teak cockpit table treatment question

I have Cetol on mine and I think it is great.......it had been varnished previously and the varnish was peeling badly. I scraped and sanded it down to bare wood, put on 3 coats of Cetol and then 2 coats of Cetol gloss and now more than 4 years later it still looks great and beads water like when it was brand new.
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Re: Teak cockpit table treatment question

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdogandy View Post
I have Cetol on mine and I think it is great.......it had been varnished previously and the varnish was peeling badly. I scraped and sanded it down to bare wood, put on 3 coats of Cetol and then 2 coats of Cetol gloss and now more than 4 years later it still looks great and beads water like when it was brand new.
Right on there Andy. I actually use Cetol plus Cetol Gloss. I thought of them as varnish. Technically, I don't know if Cetol is varnish or not. I use Cetol extensively on my IP.
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Re: Teak cockpit table treatment question

Thanks for the suggestions! Is the Bartop Coating UV-Resistant? I couldn't see that on the web pages. The Cetol looks quite nice as well. I might go the simple route and sand it flush and use placemats with greasy food. I do plan on covering the table when not in use in the future, that pitting came from storage over the summer when the table was not covered and exposed to the hard rains.
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Old 12-29-2013
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Re: Teak cockpit table treatment question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zanshin View Post
Thanks for the suggestions! Is the Bartop Coating UV-Resistant? I couldn't see that on the web pages. The Cetol looks quite nice as well. I might go the simple route and sand it flush and use placemats with greasy food. I do plan on covering the table when not in use in the future, that pitting came from storage over the summer when the table was not covered and exposed to the hard rains.
I've used hundreds of gallons of bartop (usually called table top) resin over the years, it is not uv resisitant.
But, for my cockpit table, I sanded it, poured it with table top resin, let it cure for a few weeks indoors, out of any direct sunlight, then gave it three coats of awlspar, that's awlgrips spar varnish, which has a ton of uv inhibitors. Five years later, being in direct sunlight in Miami, it has a couple of dings and chips in it, so it's ready for a light sand, and a recoat.

the reason we love it for bars, is that after 5-10 years of hard service, a light sand takes care of the cigarette burns, and the cranberry where the drinks are made, then one pour of the resin (it's poured on, not brushed or rolled) and it's like new.
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