SailNet Community banner
  • SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

Wheel to tiller conversion - new throttle

3K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  SVTatia 
#1 ·
I'm planning a conversion from wheel back to tiller on my 1977 CS27. The wheel and pedestal just take up too much space, and the conversion is relatively simple on my boat. The part I'm not yet comfortable with is converting my pedestal mounted engine controls back to a side-mount cockpit control.

I currently stop my engine (Yanmar YSB-8) by cutting the throttle. Does this mean I require a separate throttle + shifter, or is there a way to still do this using a single-lever model?

Any specific recommendations on brands / models that have left good impressions?

Thank you in advance,
Chris
 
#2 ·
You might find an older Morse 2 lever system more to your liking if you don't have a 'kill' cable setup.. but surely there's a fuel cutoff on the engine and all you'd need is a 'manual choke' pull cable kit to rig it up.

Morse used to make a 2 lever system where the levers could be removed and stored off the hub so there was less likelihood of lines getting caught on them.
 
#4 ·
The only control that seems to be made in the old style used on sailboats is the one below from Seastar. I just browsed their catalog and it is all I could find. I'm not sure of the price but can check tomorrow.

The other option would be used. There must be some 2 lever controls around in your area. I know there is in Victoria. As far as the cables which are probably original they can be replaced for not very much if necessary. You will likely not need cables as long as the current ones.

As far as I know the throttle, when pulled to the minimum setting, also cut fuel flow to zero for engine stopping. I have basically the same engine as Chris does.

 
#3 ·
Premium product, used to install Kobelt product on government, commercial and custom boat installations. Cost is higher than Seastar Kobelt Manufacturing

or

Morse/Teleflex is now SeaStar
SeaStar Solutions

or

SeaStar Solutions

You should be able to use your existing cables (depending on length) on all these as cable ends are universal.

Will you remove the fiberglass box covering the steering yoke?
 
#5 ·
Premium product, used to install Kobelt product on government, commercial and custom boat installations. Cost is higher than Seastar Kobelt Manufacturing

or

Morse/Teleflex is now SeaStar
SeaStar Solutions

or

SeaStar Solutions

You should be able to use your existing cables (depending on length) on all these as cable ends are universal.
The Seastar uses 33c cables but the Kobelt comparable (#2031) uses the heavy duty 60 series cables. I think the Kobelt is really overkill for a smaller boat.
 
#6 ·
Chris

A friend suggested you see Mike at The Store Chandlery in Port Credit for suggestions.

The CH2500P shown above is about $800. Didn't price the Kobelt - it would be more.

Look for used. The cables may need replacing but the levers should last.
 
#9 ·
Hooo-eeee! I had no idea these things were going to be that expensive. My Edson throttle controls weren't that much, and I thought everything Edson made was priced like diamonds. Definitely going to look into the used market... These ought to be well within reasonable eBay shipping costs.
 
#7 ·
Mason's Chandlery is in Port Credit Marina, Mississauga. There are 1200 slips in that marina so your pickings might be good. Mason's has a garage sale set up behind their store in Port Credit, ON. Being that you are in NY you should also try RCR Yachts - they have 5 locations upstate and might have a used parts bin available. You might also find something at Brewer Brother's Marine in Hamilton, ON. They usually have some dust covered dead stock they are trying to part with.

Original engine controls for tiller equipped CS27 were from Teleflex, both handles were removable, one with black knob, one red.
 
#10 ·
When factory installed (or factory supplied kit in aftermarket) CS included a molded fiberglass box at the aft end of the cockpit with a teak board on top to create a seat. Front of box had a white plexiglass cover for access. Inside the box was a modified radial drive with a fork that went through the transom and around the front face of the rudder. We cranked out 2 CS27 decks a week and installing this optional box was part of the deck assembly process (read your detailed blog on your retrofit -yes, we were the guys that did not pot any of the deck fitting holes, but we did use plenty of butyl tape to seal everything, technology has changed somewhat and builders hopefully know they MUST POT EVERY HOLE)

I've also seen retrofits of push/pull cable through stbd side of transom and on to bracket on rudder, but not factory speced. After 20+ years out of the business I too am amazed at the price of marine hardware.
 
#11 ·
Ahh, NOW I know what box you're talking about! And thanks for reading my blog - always catches me off-guard when I hear someone actually reads it! I know no manufacturers potted the decks back then - and I'm definitely aware that CS was a big fan of butyl - probably one of the reasons those boats hold up so darn well.

I was thinking about glassing in the transom hole and using that box for the engine panel (on/off/dummy lights), then mounting the shift/throttle on the starboard cockpit side. Still trying to figure out where the panels would best fit, really; This plan is in the very early stages.

If I came up with a better plan for placement of controls and panel, and didn't need that back box, then yes I would remove it and glass over the holes. My cockpit is really overdue for a new non-skid paint job, so may as well paint over some glass work too.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top