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sugerpeople 01-15-2014 10:13 AM

DIY Bowsprit
 
I have been thinking of adding a bowsprit to my J24. Not to use for racing, just for the light air cruising days. I would fly a genaker. Could a retrofit kit damage the bow with unsupported upward forces? Would the tack of the standard 150 genoa chaff on the pole attached to the deck? Is it worth it, or should I just attach the tack of the genaker to the tack of the genny (inside the forestay)?

Lake Superior Sailor 01-15-2014 10:40 AM

Re: DIY Bowsprit
 
Sail mag did a nice write up on that, you might want to read last month.....Dale

Faster 01-15-2014 10:49 AM

Re: DIY Bowsprit
 
Adding such a sprit can really enhance the use of an Asymm.. but don't underestimate the loads it might see, esp lifting loads.

Our son put one on his (then) Ranger 29.. he added a bow eye low on the stem and ran a dyneema 'bobstay' to handle that load. It was about an 18-24 inch extension and worked well for him.

sugerpeople 01-15-2014 12:09 PM

Re: DIY Bowsprit
 
I read the article in Sail, that's where I got the idea from, but unfortunately it raised more questions than answered.

mad_machine 01-15-2014 03:25 PM

Re: DIY Bowsprit
 
I will have to find the article. I had dreams of rerigging my SS23 into a cutter :D

Stumble 01-15-2014 05:33 PM

Re: DIY Bowsprit
 
It really, really depends on what you want to fly from it, and in what conditions. The requirements for a code sail, a genniker, and a deep running asym are vastly different because of the different luff tension that is applied. So first figure out what you expect to fly from the pole, then figure out how far out it you want it to be.

If you are just flying a runner from a short pole just about anything will work. The loads are pretty light, and the shorter the pole the smaller the leaver arm. If you want to fly a code at the end of a long pole... Well the leaver arm is longer, and the halyard tension is substantial.

I wouldn't even bother trying to calculate this from first principle. Go take a look at the Selden retrofit pole, and match what you install to what they have designed. Alternatively buy it from them, I have had a lot of luck with their retrofit stuff to date.

SchockT 01-16-2014 02:41 AM

Re: DIY Bowsprit
 
If you are talking about light air cruising with a modest sized chute then you don't have too much to worry about assuming your deck is structurally sound and not spongy. The Selden kits rely on a couple of bolts through the deck with a backing plate to take the whole load.

On the other hand, if you think you might be tempted to try the setup out in phrf racing with a full crew hiking on a power reach, then you might want to consider over engineering it a bit!

Joel H. 01-16-2014 06:48 AM

Re: DIY Bowsprit
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Faster (Post 1310170)
Our son put one on his (then) Ranger 29.. he added a bow eye low on the stem and ran a dyneema 'bobstay' to handle that load. It was about an 18-24 inch extension and worked well for him.

I did one using dyneema and a pc. of Hobie-cat boom on my Catalina 27. It stood the test this summer when the old C27 hit 7+ in 20+kt winds. I love it, and the "old salts" around me were rather impressed.
I would have to draw a picture because it is dis-assembled on the hard now.
If you need me to, let me know.
Cheers,
Joel H.

mad_machine 01-16-2014 10:34 AM

Re: DIY Bowsprit
 
my reasons for a sprit are for a genny. The working sail on my Sprite already overlaps the mast some. plans are to reduce it some ( sail singlehanded) and make it self tacking and then as the rig is a fractional, add a sprit to run a furling genny

christian.hess 01-16-2014 11:46 AM

Re: DIY Bowsprit
 
dont go too crazy in length as j24s can get squirelly off the wind...make sure all crew are way aft...not to mention changes in helm feel.

I thought a good compromise is to have a retractable chute pole like many racing boats have...especially dinghies(i14, skiffs, 49ers, etc)

you can make a sprit from pvc filled with foam and wrapped etc...have sturdy mounts(eyes) through bolted and backed up with plates down below and then a simple pulley system to retrieve and retract the pole

or you could go way simple and just add a small stainless sprit with a very small cable or dyneema to save weight down to the waterline with a turnbuckle up top...or not even just tie it up taught since the chute will pull upwards...

basically no longer than a foot is all you need to get the chute clear of the bow

just some thoughts

we have a j24 down here that we used to regularly do all sorts of fun stuff to it to "improve" sailing characterustics...jajaja


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