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post #1 of 16 Old 01-18-2014 Thread Starter
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Mooring Question

Pictured is some gear I am considering purchasing. This is said to be what I need to construct a mooring for my HR28 on a tidal river off my harbor. Having no experience with building/setting a mooring myself, would anyone care to comment on this rig? My boat is an HR28. I am about 29' LOA and about 6k lbs displacement. Tidal currents can run max 4 knots. The area being considered would have decent protection. Basic plan is one anchor up and one down river with anchor to chain connection using new unpictured thimbles, swivels, and shackles then chain to thimbled/shackled mooring lines. I am working on a price that includes setting the mooring up.

I would appreciate feedback on this plan.
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post #2 of 16 Old 01-18-2014
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Re: Mooring Question

If memory serves me your HR 28 will be mooring in Charleston harbor?
I'm not at all a fan of using anchors for a proper mooring. There are some that get away with it but they are in very protected waters, not somewhere with up to 4 knots of current.

We keep my Tartan 27' on the Hudson River where there is up to 2 knots of current. We use a standard mooring of 250# mushroom anchor, chain that will hold the QE II and mooring ball and pennants. We have weathered two named storms this way; Irene, Sandy. My boat weighs about the same as yours. A better anchor than our generic mushroom anchor is one with a counter weight, like this: Anchor Mushroom 250Lb with Counterweight Made In USA
And even more highly regarded are the pyramid anchors which necessarily weigh a bit more.

I would consider using 2 anchors if I had to anchor overnight in my river that flows two ways but I would never consider it a proper mooring for my boat. I'm not in a mill pond either. The expense of a good mooring can be amortized over the years you use the boat.

A few of the big chandlers have example mooring set up information pages. Jamestown is one of them. Mooring Basics - How to Install a Permanent Mooring

don't cheap out on your boat now!

More importantly, how much fetch, or open water is there where you intend to moor/anchor your boat?

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post #3 of 16 Old 01-18-2014
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Re: Mooring Question

I agree completely with the post above. If it is indeed in Charleston harbor, that set up of two anchors is very risky. If either drags it may well foul the other, leaving you with nothing. The fetch from Sumter is more than a mile and the summer T-storms can have 50 knots of wind or more, never mind a hurricane. Spend the bucks and get a proper mushroom anchor and build a real mooring. I've personally seen 75 knots in the Ashley, completely unforecast, that lasted for 45 minutes from the SW. Many boats damaged and a few serious injuries in the City Marina.
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post #4 of 16 Old 01-19-2014
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Re: Mooring Question

I agree with Caleb as well with some exceptions. The suggestion of a 250 lb mushroom is lighter than used in my area for a year round mooring. Over 1000 lbs is more like it. The Jamestown link suggests light chain all the way from mooring block to buoy. Around here we use 1/2" long link mooring chain for the lower portion and 1" polysteel for the upper half. All chain, depending on depth, can cause the buoy to be too low in the water or even under with its weight. The polysteel is spliced around a heavy duty thimble and attached to the chain with a rated shackle. Long link chain is used as a heavy shackle - say 5/8" - cannot be attached to lighter conventional chain.

The Jamestown link calls for 3/4" chain and a 3000 lb block for your size boat in exposed areas.

I put such a system together for a customer yesterday. It was for a trimaran and his block weighed over 1 ton, with several anchors out from that even.

Many harbors have approved type of moorings for their area. It would pay to check.

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post #5 of 16 Old 01-19-2014
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Re: Mooring Question

Given all the regulations these days, I'm surprised there isn't a weight requirement for the mooring. On Long Island, the town has strict requirements and you must have your mooring inspected and dropped by a designated boatyard.

Fwiw, like Caleb, I sail a Tartan 27. I'm moored in a protected harbor and use a 300 pound mushroom.

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post #6 of 16 Old 01-19-2014
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Re: Mooring Question

Isn't there a navy/sub base up river from Charleston? I would be very surprised, if there weren't permitting requirements for permanent moorings in the harbor.


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post #7 of 16 Old 01-19-2014 Thread Starter
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Re: Mooring Question

Thanks for all the feedback folks. This being a new part of the sailing world for me I am being quite cautious and learning as I go. Thanks for adding to my education here. Not sure who to check with on local requirements but will start with CG. That and the consensus I am catching here is that a permanent mooring needs to be quite a bit heavier. Makes sense... Keep the pointers coming...
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post #8 of 16 Old 01-19-2014
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Re: Mooring Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by SkywalkerII View Post
Given all the regulations these days, I'm surprised there isn't a weight requirement for the mooring. On Long Island, the town has strict requirements and you must have your mooring inspected and dropped by a designated boatyard.

Fwiw, like Caleb, I sail a Tartan 27. I'm moored in a protected harbor and use a 300 pound mushroom.

Skywalker
Once you have your mooring set up, how is it marked for ownership as you probably have a significant investment with permits, installation costs etc.

For example, you come back right before a significant blow and someone else is tied up to your ball? What are your options? Surely this is a purely
hypothetical question as I am sure no fellow sailor would enchroach like this!
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post #9 of 16 Old 01-19-2014
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Re: Mooring Question

I don't have enough info to comment on your specific situation, but as a general rule I'd follow local practice. The one thing I would be skeptical of is the top gear....I would recommend chain.

I have successfully used a two anchor, all chain mooring for over ten years in a harbor with 3 mile fetch. The anchors are two 100# danforths with 80 ft. of 1" chain between them (1000 # total weight) and 35 ft. of 9/16th top chain from the middle of the bridle to the swivel and ball. Pennant is 20ft. of 1" braid. With water depth of 25 ft. that gives me about a 3x scope. The anchors are now buried so deep you can't see them. My boat is 47ft x 15 ft. and displaces 24 tons loaded. The bottom is a compact, silty sand.

The rig withstood 12 hours of 50kts plus in a tropical storm a few years ago.

The key to success with this type of mooring is to oversize the bottom gear -- big anchors and really heavy chain relative to the boat size/displacement and potential wave size. Also very important: proper scope, anchors suitable to the bottom type, good quality connections (beware Chinese hardware which is often of dubious quality), and regular inspections.

Re. Anchors vs blocks -
Advantages: my anchors are easier to move than a 6-8 ton block.
Disadvantages: more gear to inspect, and more connections that could fail.

Last edited by billyruffn; 01-19-2014 at 10:57 AM.
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post #10 of 16 Old 01-19-2014
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Re: Mooring Question

Anyone down there installing helix anchors? Cuz there is no weight-dependent or suction or dig-in anchor that can match a properly sized earth auger for strength.
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