DESPERATELY SEEKING MOORING: San Diego - SailNet Community
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 08-28-2005 Thread Starter
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DESPERATELY SEEKING MOORING: San Diego

Hi there, new to the forum.

FINALLY purchased my 2nd boat, a 1970 Cal 25 berthed here in San Diego. Now, the bigger issue: finding a home for her.

I''ve done my research and determined that a mooring would be most cost-efficient. After conducting my search I found that the only mooring space currently available is in Mission Bay. However, I need to acquire all the hardware, which includes getting an ENGINE BLOCK that''s been BOILED (so that it meets EPA/Lifeguard Inspection). Does anyone know of where I can get an engine block/mooring ball for less than $300, or know of someone who might be able to sell me their unused mooring??? Any help would be much appreciated!!!

-mark
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post #2 of 5 Old 08-29-2005
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DESPERATELY SEEKING MOORING: San Diego

As a last resort, go to Pick-a-Part or other auto recycler in the San Diego area. Get the oldest/non-running (hence cheapest) V8 block you can find. They frequently have engines pulled from the car but you may have to disassemble it. Find engine rebuilders in yellow pages. They will boil the block for you. Need a pickup truck to take engine home to strip and to go to engine rebuilder.

Alternatively, call engine rebuilders to see if they have cracked blocks that can''t be rebuilt. Then go from there.
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post #3 of 5 Old 08-29-2005
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DESPERATELY SEEKING MOORING: San Diego

schmarko Personally I find engine blocks poor performers,is this required in your area?I use train wheels for my mooring and if you could use something else go to your local scrap metal yard (all kinds of interesting things).I make a temporary raft out of plastic 45 gallon drums and piggy back them out to where I want and unscrew the fittings on one side and get the hell out of the way.
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post #4 of 5 Old 09-04-2005
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schmarko

Here is what I did.
Went to a local excavator, you know, earth mover, bulldozers & such. In his scrap I found two John Deere 450 bull dozer drive sprockets, maybe almost three feet in diameter. I think I gave him $20. Then went to a junk yard, lots of junk cars & trucks. Found a truck rear axel with about a six inch flange on the outer end and about a three 1/2 foot shaft, maybe 2 3/4 to 3 inch shaft, $15 for this one.

Laid one sprocket inside the other, they are slightly dished, brought the axel shaft up through the sprockets, bolted and welded the whole thing together, bent a 3/4 inch steel bar into a U shape to fit the outer end of the axel, welded it on ----- and walla ------ I had a mushroom mooring anchor.

I took it to a weight scale here in town and I think it weighed 361 pounds. I will not promise all dimensions here are exact, it was six years ago. I fastened a 3x3 foot piece of 1/2 inch plywood to two 2x4s for handles & support. Laid the plywood with the handles on the underside, on a 14 foot aluminum boat, had a guy with a wrecker set the thing on the plywood, rowed out to where I wanted it, put the mooring buoy and chain in the water, after attaching it to the anchor bail, stood up in the boat and lifted the handles up & in she went.

The mushroom will hold a lot more and a lot better than a engine block.

Walt Ward
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post #5 of 5 Old 09-05-2005
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DESPERATELY SEEKING MOORING: San Diego

Another good thing to use if you are using any rope to protect against abrasion is to use high pressure well pipe(thick wall).Just put it through where you are attaching and slide the rope through it.My neighbor who has a mussle farm,you know with the thousand lines and buoys stretched everywhere in front of my house RRRRRR uses only rope(no chain) and so far they have been down there for over 10 years and no problems.I did the job too well.It has survived many storms and shows no wear,I replace my chain every 5 years and it needs it.With a light boat I would be tempted to go all rope but I am too chicken myself and the chain has a nice dampening effect.
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