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Is a Vang Really Useful on a mid to Large Boat?

10K views 63 replies 22 participants last post by  WoobaGooba 
#1 ·
I have a vang that I hate and consider virtually worthless. I'm considering removing it and am looking for opinions. I get that on a smaller boat, the vang is very useful to shape the main as the wind increases. But on the configuration shown below with the mid-boom sheeting, I wonder if it is of any use. Upwind, no matter how much tension I put on it (as shown: 4:1, now rigged as 8:1), there is no change. I can get some purchase, but it's minimal - maybe an inch or 2 on an 8:1 rig. The angles are horrendous and I see no realistic way to improve them. So why bother at all? Off the wind, I use a preventer attached to an eye on the outboard genoa track which is very effective at bringing the boom down.

Should I ditch the vang and stay with the preventer? This discussion is not about rigid vangs, it's about whether any vang can effectively shape a mid-size main with mid-boom sheeting.

 
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#2 · (Edited)
I have a vang that I hate and consider virtually worthless. I'm considering removing it and am looking for opinions. I get that on a smaller boat, the vang is very useful to shape the main as the wind increases. But on the configuration shown below with the mid-boom sheeting, I wonder if it is of any use. Upwind, no matter how much tension I put on it (as shown: 4:1, now rigged as 8:1), there is no change. I can get some purchase, but it's minimal - maybe an inch or 2 on an 8:1 rig. The angles are horrendous and I see no realistic way to improve them. So why bother at all? Off the wind, I use a preventer attached to an eye on the outboard genoa track which is very effective at bringing the boom down.

Should I ditch the vang and stay with the preventer? This discussion is not about rigid vangs, it's about whether any vang can effectively shape a mid-size main with mid-boom sheeting.
With the setup you have, it does seem as though the vang fixing point on the boom is a long way aft...

Within the range of your traveller, a vang will do nothing for your sail shape. If you're happy with rigging a preventer every time you're off the wind, by all means get rid of the vang.

(Personal note: I don't currently have a vang - my boat has never had one - and although I'd like one, I find either (a) a preventer rigged like you mention for long periods or (b) a spare crewmember for short periods works well enough. )

Nice boat, BTW :)
 
#4 ·
IMO the vang is a crucial safety item when sailing downwind. It prevents the chance of an accidental goose-wing gybe. It's a pretty important trimming tool any time the boom is outside the traveler range. Even before then it can play an important role in leech tension.

If you find it an ineffective tool it probably isn't powerful enough.

I wouldn't sail without one, even if it was nothing more than a fixed strop which would be better than no vang.
 
#8 ·
for the newb sailor(no offence to anyone here) over reliance on vangs on downwind courses is the number one cause of boom failure, gooseneck failure and anything related to boom BREAKAGE

this is also true for improperly pullied mid boom traveller systems

this is why travellers(mainsheet) at the end of booms have such great records of non failure

for example my last boat had a rotating 4 point attachment boom end that in case of an accidental gybe what fails is the attachment point...and yes you lose the boom to the stays but you can quickly reatach mainsheet and have a nice sail...

booms that break in half are mostly caused when improper tension is exerted at a point too midway of the boom length...thats why you see massive pulley traveler systems on coachroof mainsheet traveller systems its needed...kind of like chosing your poison

My current boat is setup this way...but its a short IOR boom..so the forces involved are to an extent less than a boat with a big long boom and midpoiunt attachment

anywhoo

verbal diarhea out:D
 
#5 ·
I think that vang is set up correctly. It is about as far out on the boom as it is down from the gooseneck. Agree with others that if you don't want to set up a preventer, then the boom vang will keep the boom from riding up (it won't prevent the boom from gybing). Since I don't even have a traveler, the vang will be useful, even when close to the wind in keeping sail shape consistent as I sheet out in puffs.
 
#6 ·
I think that vang is set up correctly. It is about as far out on the boom as it is down from the gooseneck. Agree with others that if you don't want to set up a preventer, then the boom vang will keep the boom from riding up....
That's what the spare crew is for. :)

Since I don't even have a traveler, the vang will be useful, even when close to the wind in keeping sail shape consistent as I sheet out in puffs.
If you don't have a traveller, then you need a vang. The OP has a traveller (a shortish one, but a traveller nonetheless).
 
#7 ·
I find preventers more useful especially on broad reaches and ddw...vangs not on every boat

long booms for example dont really need vangs but thats just my feeling and experience...

especially on old wooden boats...

now for dinchy sailing and small boat racing hell yeah

pull that vang down hard, get some bend in the boom and rake that b.................

jajaja
 
#9 · (Edited)
Thanks for the sanity check guys. The other reason that I'm considering getting rid of the vang is that I'm upgrading the traveler with a Garhauser unit. The original doesn't move as freely as it should (even after rebuilding the bearings in the car). And even with the traveler blocks at 4:1 it's still hard to move to windward in 20kts upwind - and the traveler is how we predominately trim the main. My mainsheet trimmer will love me….

So while I'm upgrading the traveler, I want to upgrade the mainsheet blocks. As it is now, the vang interferes with the mainsheet block on the boom. I've tried double blocks, and two singles but they clang and don't let the mainsheet travel as smoothly as I'd like. So if I don't need the vang, I'll get rid of it…..it's not like I can't put it back.

FYI - I upgraded the stock 4:1 to 8:1 by hooking the 4:1 to a line that passes through a single block on the boom. So 2:1 gets doubled to 8:1. Pretty cool and simple.

It prevents the chance of an accidental goose-wing gybe.
I agree, that's why I hesitate and am questioning my logic.
 
#10 · (Edited)
From your pic, I might agree with Classic 30.
As I see several issues with your vang set up. (could be the angles of the pic, too)

1. the vang's connection to mast is higher than the absolute base of the mast. Looks like the geometry was chosen so that the present vang would clear an opened hatch. Getting the mast connection lower down will greatly help the vang generate more 'down' force on the boom.
Rx - do a trial with the vang pinned to the very bottom of the mast AT the coachroof. You can 'tie' a stout line around the mast base with a 'loop' (alpine butterfly knot, etc.) as the trial attachment point (w/ hatch closed).

2. From the pic, and I may be wrong, but I see a 5:1 vang being used @ 4:1 in the 'up' direction and 5:1 along the 'horizontal' direction, ..... the 'tail' of the vang seems to be running along parallel to the mast; and if so, the 'tail' is generating NO 'down' force !!!!!?????
Rx - even the vang control line should be run directly to the very 'base' of the mast.

3. Do a trial with the vang attached to the boom via 'strops/lashings' and with the 'strop connection' closer to the mast. A vang that makes a 45° angle with its boom will generate 40% more 'downforce' than a vang that makes a 30° angle intercept. (Of course when the attachment point on the boom comes closer to the mast, the 'moment force' becomes greater - a tradeoff, but should be investigated.) Your boom connection 'seems' to be a bit far aft on the boom.

Other - I often 'vang sheet' my boats (one has a Garhauer 'rigid' vang) when racing or just messing about. I initially pre-set the vang so that the boom meets the mast at a 90° angle (87° to be exact, as I have such marked on the vang control line). I can 'ease' the vang at will and under all wind strengths; but if the sail has a lot of developed wind pressure I can hardly ever be able to pull 'down' on the boom with a vang (10:1). To pull down with the vang (in above 'light-moderate' conditions), I always have to momentarily 'unload' the mainsail, reset the vang to the 'mark', then 'load up' again (takes few seconds). I dont know of many vang systems that will allow a fully loaded and drawing mainsail to be 'tightened' when the sail is 'loaded and drawing' (except when beating and the mainsheet is being over-tensioned, on purpose).
Usually most vangs require the mainsail to be 'unloaded' a bit before 'pulling in' on the vang.

;-)
 
#11 ·
I have a solid vang on my 42 footer, and I really think that all it does that is useful is to hold up the boom (even thought I have a topping lift, too).

Maybe a racer would get another .001 knots by using it somehow, but I think it's dead weight on my boat.
 
#12 ·
Thanks for the assessment, Rich. Some clarifications:

1. the vang's connection to mast is higher than the absolute base of the mast
The attachment point is just above the mast collar. In the photo, the vang is loose and you can see the lower set of blocks just above the bowline in the jib sheet. It's as low as it can go.

2. From the pic, and I may be wrong, but I see a 5:1 vang being used
I was wrong when I wrote 4:1, that was the original configuration. In the photo, it's 6:1.The 2nd set of blocks are obscured in the photo.

the 'tail' of the vang seems to be running along parallel to the mast; and if so, the 'tail' is generating NO 'down' force
That's true and could be reconfigured to go to the mast collar turning blocks. The manufacturer ran the lines that way for neatness, I suspect. Good idea.

A vang that makes a 45° angle with its boom will generate 40% more 'downforce' than a vang that makes a 30° angle intercept.
Agreed. The angles are horrendous. But if I move the boom attachment point forward to get 45 degrees, then the moment arm on the boom will be reduced. So I think that I will solve one problem and create another.

Your last paragraph is the most helpful. I'll look at when and how I apply vang. Thanks.

GROUP9:
I really think that all it does that is useful is to hold up the boom
True. The spring in the rigid vang is fighting the 4:1 or 6:1 block arrangement, reducing the down power. Rigid vangs are poor "vangs", IMO. They're mostly boom holder-uppers.
 
#14 ·
True. The spring in the rigid vang is fighting the 4:1 or 6:1 block arrangement, reducing the down power. Rigid vangs are poor "vangs", IMO. They're mostly boom holder-uppers.
Well, I've gotta disagree with that one...:) I rate an effective vang as being pretty essential, and although rigid vangs can be pricey, I consider mine to be worth every penny...

The preventer arrangement you describe is a poor substitute for a vang in anything more than light to moderate conditions, in my view... I'm not a fan of mid-boom preventers taken vertically to a sail track or the rail, especially when the breeze comes up... An effective preventer needs to be led from the end of the boom to a point well forward of the mast, in my opinion, and when it's led back to the cockpit, it's an arrangement easily adjusted on any point of sail off the wind...

 
#13 ·
The vang isn't that useful close hauled. Your mainsheet has more downward force on the boom.

It should be useful when you are on a beam reach or deeper. In those conditions you would have traveled down to the limits of your traveler and the mainsheet can no longer be used to control downward force on the boom.

My first boat didn't have an effective traveler, so I used the vang all of the time. My current boat has a traveler that has a lot of travel and I don't get to sail on a beam reach that often (Puget Sound is long and skinny), so I there are many days of sailing where I don't touch the vang. However I'm still glad that it is there for those days when I need it.

My vang leads back to a clutch and cockpit winch. I don't use the winch with the vang very often, but it is there should I need it. The same winch is shared with the main halyard (it's primary use), outhaul, and first reef line.
 
#18 · (Edited)
The vang isn't that useful close hauled. Your mainsheet has more downward force on the boom..
The prime function of the vang is to control 'twist' in the main. Unless you have a radial traveller that goes from rail to rail and you dont touch the mainsheet pressure ... when the boom is moving across the traveller, the amount of twist in the main will be changing. Twist sets the angle of attack for all levels (up from the deck) of the sail; If the twist becomes variable and changeable, the efficiency of the sail becomes less, usually much less ... even in some cases to become subject to sudden 'power-ups' when in very gusty conditions. Also too a sail with a inadequate vang system will require constant 'trimming' as the wind pressure varies; and, its very rare to have constant wind pressure.

A sail that is 'twisted' to match the gradient wind is easy to 'blade out' (the entire luff 'breaks' instantaneously) when overpowered; a sail that doesnt have reasonably good matching twist can either 'power-up' or will be 'unattached' at the head and overtrimmed at the foot with only the mid panels 'working'. If you attempt to luff-up with a grossly mal-twisted sail, something aloft is 'going' to 'power-up' when you do.
The easiest way to keep 'constant twist' is via a 'good' vang system ... and especially when the boom is no longer directly above the traveller (thats why 'vang sheeting' works so well). Even when the boom is more or less directly above the traveller, sail pressure will cause the mainsheet to not be perfectly 'vertical' ... and the vang is indeed helpful to keep the 'tack angle' of the sail (or boom to mast angle) more or less constant, and without much change in mainsheet tension (that tack angle being held constant also results in constant fore/aft position of maximum draft in the sail).

A sail whose twist is 'variable' with wind pressure will be changing its 'aerodynamics' up and down along the vertical (luff). in the high speed planing hulled sport boats with inadequate vangs ... we call those folks: 'swimmers'.
In long distance sailing I feel its always better to be 'on' with trim and shape as a 22 hour day is usually more satisfying than a 24 hour day, especially when 'getting out of the way of stink'.

Simply put, no vang = increased vulnerability to a 'goose wing' gybe. A 'goose wing' gybe can easily change a mainsail into a spinnaker when all the slugs on the luff break free from the mast.

;-)
 
#15 ·
those are the preventers I was talking about at least...jajaja anything mid boom for example is an easy way to break stuff

I like snubbers on preventers too...you know just in case! jajaja

again vangs are boat dependant definitely NOT mandatory on all boats
 
#17 · (Edited)
I am reading this thread and shaking my head at some of these responses. I would have expected some of these responses back in the 1960's but not today. Like my estemed colleagues Ron, (Faster), Bob Perry and Jon Eisberg noted, to me a boom vang is a very critical piece of safety equipment that prevents the boom from rising up and taking out the backstay and rig in an accidental jibe. Those kinds of boom hitting backstay and taking down the rig or breaking a boom incidents were a pretty frequent occurances back in the day when boom vangs were not all that common.

A traveler is no substitute for a vang except perhaps when close reaching. A traveler only impacts the leech tension when the boom is perhaps 45 degrees of less off the centerline (especially with a coach roof mounted traveler). Beyond that the sail is free to develop too much twist. At that point you have a collection of over trimming or under trimming which implies a mix of bad trade offs; too much abrasion as the sail saws up and down on the rigging, too much twist making you more prone to jibing, broaching and rolling and too much weather helm. And a traveller does not come into play in the accidental jibe senario descibed above.

While you can rig a tackle to the rail that will act pull down on the boom and control twist, doing so is considered a very dangerous practice in heavy air, when you are more likely to dip a boom end from rolling or a knockdown and break something dramatically. Itwas extremely strongly discouraged at the safety at sea seminars that I have attended.

The preferred method of rigging a preventer is to take it forward to a turning block and then back to a quick release in the cockpit. The line should be stretchy enough to absorb an impact should the boom hit the water, but no so stretchy that it will allow the boom to reach within 30-40 degrees of the centerline of the boat.

Frankly, as I read Sabreman's description, it sounds like the problem is the geometry of the vang, and not that there is a vang in itself. Rich H is right that a vang should ideally be rigged at a 45 degree angle. Sabreman's vang appears to be at an angle approaching 30 degrees. Moving the attachment point forward on the boom to a 45 degree angle would increase the downforce by something like 20-25% while the lost leverage on your boom would decrease the mechanical advantage at the leech by 12-15%, overall a net gain. But the biggest advantage to changing the geometry is the massive reduction of load parallel to the boom on your gooseneck.

The good news is that an experiemental fix is cheap and easy. You should be able to rig a strop that wraps around your boom using either webbing or line at the right position and try it for a while. You will probably need to run a tight retainer line from the strop back to the original boom vang mounting position to prevent the strop from sliding up the boom under load.

I would also note, that my boom vang with 400 square feet of sail on an 18 foot boom, is 12:1 and is led back to a winch. I originally had second cascade which resulted in a 24:1 but still found myself using a winch in heavy air.

Jeff
 
#20 ·
I am with Rich, Jeff, Bob, Jon and Ron.
 
#21 ·
Me too. You don't have to come from solely a racing background to like vangs, especially at jibe time.

And on a dead run without one, you'll have the boom cocked up and the top of the main on an angle that would like to be on a broad reach on the opposite tack. And it will try to get you there, too. Let your attention wander and get a little by the lee, and that little "topsail" will start heeling you to windward, toward what we in dinghies used to call the "death roll" or the "burnout". And that heel to windward will immerse your port side more, and move your Center of Effort to the "wrong" side of the Center of lateral resistance. Presto! you've now got a much bigger case of lee helm you may not be able to cure, and crew (if not clicked in) losing their grip and tumbling to leeward, and a crash jibe at about the same time.
 
#25 ·
Thanks for the posts guys. The last few are especially are very well considered. Jeff_H in particular was the tipping point toward my decision. I've decided to keep the vang because I was never especially thrilled with getting rid of it for the reasons so well put by Jeff, Rich, and Alex. The change that I will make will be twofold:

1. Change the geometry as Jeff suggests. I plan to do some measurements, then work out the trig and verify if the reduction in moment arm is offset by the improved angle. If the numbers support the change, I will rig a temporary attachment point more forward on the boom. But I suspect that Jeff is right.

2. I won't try to apply vang when going up wind. The mainsheet will do that for me. But when off the wind, I will rely on it more.

I will still rig a preventer downwind (for now). I've found that accidental gybes in air up to the mid 30s, result in only a few inches lateral boom movement if the preventer is vertical prior to the gybe and snubbed such that there is no slack. If there is slack, then the loads mount dangerously. I saw those loads that firsthand when we blew a Catalina 30 gooseneck apart on an accidental gybe in 20 knots. So I do respect Jeff's caution and will carefully reevaluate the practice over time.

Thanks guys... good stuff.
 
#26 ·
With respect, Christian, with the possible exception of the big multis and winged sails, I think any standard rigged boat will benefit from a vang. Hell, I even put a fixed strop vang on my then-6-yr-old son's little sailing dinghy...

 
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#28 ·
Should I ditch the vang and stay with the preventer? This discussion is not about rigid vangs, it's about whether any vang can effectively shape a mid-size main with mid-boom sheeting.
Disclaimer: I didn't read 3 pages of replies.

Short answer: YES

Long answer: You need to move the attachment point on the boom towards the gooseneck. Try to keep the angle of the purchase to around 45*, that will be the most efficient angle. 8:1 might do it, but a 16:1 would probably be better for that size boat. Can you get a better photo? Email it to me and I'll take a closer look.
 
#29 · (Edited)
I have a vang that I hate and consider virtually worthless. I'm considering removing it and am looking for opinions. I get that on a smaller boat, the vang is very useful to shape the main as the wind increases. But on the configuration shown below with the mid-boom sheeting, I wonder if it is of any use...
In addition to what others have already offered, I can assure you that a vang is a necessary safety measure. In the mid 1970's, while living in San Francisco, we were moored at Ayala Cove for a Thanksgiving Weekend raft up. Some friends with a Cal 25 rafted to us and at one point we all decided to take their boat for a round island cruise. Things went well but it occurred that we were hit by very heavy northeasterly winds as we rounded the southwest side of the island and turned into Raccoon Straight. Beating up-wind was exciting but not too problematic after we doused the jib and started the outboard to give us some extra oomph. Once we finally reached the Cove however, we had to turn down wind to get back to our own boat. Unfortunately the Cal was not equipped with reefing gear so we were dealing with a full main. With the turn we eased the sail out somewhat and with that, took off before the wind like a shot. In addition to heavy wind, there was a lot of wave action pounding into the cove and reflecting back off the cobble stone beach and at one point we were thrown over and the main gybed. With this, the boom lifted sharply and the little vang ripped off the mast. Unrestrained the boom slammed upward and into the back stay where it stuck! It did so because the owner had used a snap hook carabiner clip on his outhaul and that had pressed opened and snapped around the back-stay when the boom hit the stay. With this we were forced around, head to wind by the flogging sail and I had to climb up on the stern pulpit and hang off the back stay with one hand and try to release the outhaul carabiner clip with the other. Fortunately, we were able to finally free the sail (despite stained arms and shaking knees) and then make modest headway to windward, and stay off the beach, but in no small measure because the bluff's overlooking the cove created something of a pressure bubble that mitigated the wind. Had we not been able to free that sail, we surely would have ended up in the surf at the foot of the bluff. The loss of the boat's vang could easily have been fatal for five...
 
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#30 ·
You'll have to help me understand what you describe.
I rig a preventer from the forward-most bail on the boom to a point on our inboard genoa track. The arrangement is similar to what is shown in the first photo in the following link. I don't like the angle in the photo because there isn't much down pull - I'd move the preventer aft to the first mainsheet block and attach the bottom to the outboard genoa track, further aft. That would make the angle more vertical with more down pull.
Avoid Boom Doom: Rigging a Preventer or Boom Brake | Cruising Compass ? The Free Weekly Newsletter for Sailors & Cruisers ? ©2013 Blue Water Sailing

Can you get a better photo? Email it to me and I'll take a closer look.
I don't have a great picture, but this one shows the crummy vang angle.
 
#41 ·
I rig a preventer from the forward-most bail on the boom to a point on our inboard genoa track. The arrangement is similar to what is shown in the first photo in the following link. I don't like the angle in the photo because there isn't much down pull - I'd move the preventer aft to the first mainsheet block and attach the bottom to the outboard genoa track, further aft. That would make the angle more vertical with more down pull.
I think we have a vocabulary problem. What you are describing is not a preventer. A preventer is intended to hold the boom forward.

You appear to be more concerned with holding the boom down. That is the function of a vang and with a well configured vang you shouldn't have to keep moving it around.

just reading the last few paragraphs here and comments makes me realize that maybe not all of us here have had experience sailing dinghies and small boats...

you really learn so much I recomend it to everyone

vangs arent for preventing gybes...

vangs on small boats, dinghies, racing boats and the like are designed for better sail shape...

<snip>

(you cant do this on big boats really but just sayin)
Pretty much you can. Some cruisers either don't know how or can't be bothered. Vang is a great adjustment on my 25k# cutter-rigged sloop, even with a tree trunk for a mast.

Of course I actually use my backstay adjuster. *grin*

I was friends with some guys on an esprit 37 who tuned that boat like a race boat, rod rigging, masive vang, 2 spinnies...and they flew an asymetrical all across the pacific days on end...they were FAST
I'd like to meet those guys.
 
#31 ·
I dont think I would of had ANY benefit using a VANG on my wooden 1959 H28 with boom about a foot off the coachroof

so again the answer is NOT ALL BOATS USE VANGS this was a ketch and the boom was probably longer than my main boom on my current boat



sorry for being stubborn here

dinghies of course...

in laser racing if I saw a straight boom upwind you hammered the kid straight till he understood

at least thats what I did as a coach jajaja
 
#32 ·
I dont think I would of had ANY benefit using a VANG on my wooden 1959 H28 with boom about a foot off the coachroof

so again the answer is NOT ALL BOATS USE VANGS this was a ketch and the boom was probably longer than my main boom on my current boat

sorry for being stubborn here.....
But there's a difference between saying a vang wouldn't have helped vs a situation where a vang couldn't physically be rigged in any functional way, which is the way I see your example..

Had you raised the boom a foot then a vang could have been fitted and the boat would have been better off for it.. perhaps even to the point of making up for lost sail area... JMO, as ever... ;)
 
#33 ·
just reading the last few paragraphs here and comments makes me realize that maybe not all of us here have had experience sailing dinghies and small boats...

you really learn so much I recomend it to everyone

vangs arent for preventing gybes...

vangs on small boats, dinghies, racing boats and the like are designed for better sail shape...

you get a bend in a boom and you flatten sail if really windy or get a little pocket if light air...this is paired with outhaul tension and downhaul enabling you to get a better shape and more wind...or less depending on what reach you are.

in laser sailing for example as soon as you round the number 3 marker and head ddw first thing you do is dump release the vang...and outhaul....if your quick you do it all at once...while getting the boat flat or the main up in the air to get cleaner air

(you cant do this on big boats really but just sayin)

that way you get a nice big bellowy sail to fill up with wind and you fill it better and sail better...

now applying this to big boats is hard sometimes...first off its hard to get the sail all billowy and full of air downwind cause most boats especially cruising boats have all sorts of crap, reef lines, winches, lazy jacks, running backstays I mean a whole crap load of stuff on or around the boom and sometomes the outhauls dont even work or are frozen if the sail is rope rigged into the boom etc...

now not all sailboats or cruising boats are setup up this way but I know of very very few big sail boats and captains that would do this each gybe or heading change

I was friends with some guys on an esprit 37 who tuned that boat like a race boat, rod rigging, masive vang, 2 spinnies...and they flew an asymetrical all across the pacific days on end...they were FAST

anywhoo

again I stress vangs do help preventing the boom from going AWOL or like the scenario mentioned above, this happens a lot in laser sailing if you let out the main sheet too much and the boom is forward of the mast downwind...that is not to say its main function is to prevent gybes thats not true

peace
 
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#37 ·
in laser sailing for example as soon as you round the number 3 marker and head ddw first thing you do is dump release the vang...and outhaul....if your quick you do it all at once...while getting the boat flat or the main up in the air to get cleaner air
Hang on a second here...This statement implies that you don't use the vang DDW on a Laser. You certainly don't want to "dump" the vang. Downwind is when the vang is needed the most! If you don't have correct vang tension your sail will twist excessively and dump air and power. A quick adjustment at the mark rounding is likely, but certainly not a dump! (perhaps it was just a poor choice of words?)
 
#35 · (Edited)
that is not to say its main function is to prevent gybes thats not true
Don't think anyone said that... what a few of us have said is that it prevents a 'Goosewing' Gybe - ie a gybe where the boom is free to 'sky' during the maneouver, the mainsail itself gybes half/half along the way - the results can be snagging the backstay, or such violent motion and recovery as to damage the rigging..



But no one has said it's a 'gybe preventer'...
 
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#36 ·
Don't think anyone said that... what a few of us have said is that it prevents a 'Goosewing' Gybe - ie a gybe where the boom is free to 'sky' during the maneouver, the mainsail itself gybes half/half along the way - the results can be snagging the backstay, or such violent motion and recovery as to damage the rigging...
Agreed using a vang is the preferred option to prevent 'goosewing gybes'. The other option weighs 95kgs and, in my experience, works almost as well.. although it does require occasional feeding. :) :D

Water transportation Vehicle Boat Sailing Sail
 
#38 ·
Looking at your picture I think: Even with traveler on the aft end of the house it looks like when set up correctly the vang will attach forward of any main sheet tackle.
This means forces on the boom will be spread over more points and a larger area. So even close hauled the boom is less subject to failure.
 
#45 ·
thats what I was saying at least,..maybe my words werent corectly expressed vangs are extremely useful for upwind legs wehere the boom tip should be about 6 inches or so from the deck...inside the aft quarter...

bending the boom as its called effectively flattens sail..but you must pair it with correct OUTHAUL tension

its the outhaul that effectively flattens the sail or not...

BTW you can bend the boom effectively racking the mast to get center of affort back a bit and better sail shape...

you have many ways to tune a laser sail...

vangs on lasers ddw expressed here can work as a mini mainsheet if you will

light air sailing ddw you haul in the vang till movement is stiff...then the wieght of the mainsheet sags and effectively you are sailing with the vang...now in big winds its you tune differently

anywhoo

backto big boats and vangs:)
 
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