Originally Posted by paulk
Just a question: are you doing this move because the mast won't pivot down with the chainplates where they are? I would want to be absolutely sure of that before going to all the work of redoing the wiring and compression post. We had a somewhat similar situation with our deck-stepped Soling mast, with the shroud bases a touch forward of the step. There was sufficient give in the setup to enable us to drop the 30' mast despite this. This month's Woodenboat also has a nice article on a folding mast refit that might be useful to you.
Hi, and thanks for this help. It has been an interesting modification to plan. This post is offering some important considerations. I have been "copying" the design and operation of the set up Ed and Ellen Zaco have on their Nor' Sea 27.
The wiring gets done regardless of the location of the mast. Having the wires exiting the mast and connecting through the deck "outside" the mast makes sense. I suppose I could still route the wiring up through the tabernacle??? I will consider it. It would get it out of the way on deck? A Bulgin connector will be required either way.
I need to drill a hole through the mast to weld in place, at the ends, a piece of sch 40 .5 NOM pipe, I am so close to the front edge of the mast I just don't like the structural situation. A "washer" will get welded to the ends of the pipe and to the outside of the mast. This will provide a flat surface for the interface between the mast and the tabernacle. Moving the mast forward about an inch, perhaps an inch and a half, will make it a much stronger location for the swivel pin. The pipe is just a bearing for a .5" ss bolt that will act as the pivot. I will radius the leading "corner" of the mast to minimize the rise that results from rotating through the "normal" squared off end. The new location of the pin will align well with the end of the radius.
This is a photo of the tabernacle on an Nor' sea 27. I am shooting for this.
I need to strengthen the compression post anchor situation because of the upward force on it when stepping and un stepping. Once I have the current deck plate off I can mark the current bolt holes on the mock up from below and plan another two locations for machine screws. They might fit on the current top plate of the cp. If not, adding a little material isn't a big deal.
What happens with these mods on old boats is they lead to other things!! It will be time to deal with the ceiling next.