Awlgip Deck Problem - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 4 Old 02-28-2006 Thread Starter
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Exclamation Awlgip Deck Problem

I have a chance to purchase an Allied Seabreeze sloop built in 1964-5. Trouble is the topsides and decks have been awlgripped some years ago. The topsides are pealing, but I know how to deal with that. Real Problem is the decks. The awlgrip is on and has been painted over so many times there is no antiskid left. I need to get down to the original gel coat which had a nice antiskid built into it. I do not want to paint with a sand base as this will make the decks very hard to keep ckean. But I need a good antiskid for safety. How do I do this? Anyone know? Please advise.
Keep in touch and on starboard tack, Barbara Holmes
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post #2 of 4 Old 02-28-2006
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Starting with a bottom line, I'd say $10-15,000 will solve this particular problem, is it the only expensive problem, or does it have company?

I think you should assume that anything painted over means what is underneath is not servicable, so remove the paint and you may need to keep going...One can rebuild non-skid. First you need to remove all the paint and grind down the old non-skid. The you can glue on one of the plastic tread systems you see on some Euro boats, or use a mold to press a non-skid pattern into a layer of wet epoxy. Here a link on the subject, which references a Practical Sailor article:

As to the "topsides are pealing" is there a solution other than the complete stripping, prepping and re-painting of the hull at some $100+ per foot? My bottom line guess includes this repainting...

Good luck, get good estimates and stock up your bank account before you jump on board.

PS - is this the 35' in Hingham, MA?
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post #3 of 4 Old 03-02-2006
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Doesn't sound to me like going all the way back down to the fiberglass on deck is going to do much for this boat. When I prepped our original gelcoat deck for painting, the required sanding removed essentially all of the nonskid pattern in the decks. This is likely what happened on the Seabreeze as well. Removing the existing paint will likely remove whatever remaining nonskid pattern there might be left. It may also have been painted over in the first place because the nonskid was wearing out. (It's 40 years old!) 2-part polyurethanes (e.g.: awlgrip) are really hard, and will take a lot of sanding to get to the fiberglass as well - perhaps about a week. Chemical stripper may not work. I don't know. You do have to go down to bare fiberglass if you want to glue new tread down to the deck or use a mold with new resin; they won't stick otherwise. Both those options are quite expensive. They'd likely cost more than the boat was worth. If you repaint, you don't have to go down to the fiberglass - only enough to get some "tooth" in the surface so the new layer holds well. I did our decks with Interthane Plus and the proprietary nonskid particles (also mentioned in the link by sailingfool) and have been pleased with how easy it is to keep clean. In a do-over, I'd add even more nonskid to the mix than I did originally. One of the reasons sanded decks look dirty is that the paint has worn off, and you're seeing the sand itself. The new particles aren't sand, and blend in better with the paint color. Materials cost about $300 for a 36' boat, a lot beamier than your Seabreeze. For the $10-15 K suggested by Sailingfool, you can buy a lot of boatsoap.
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post #4 of 4 Old 03-02-2006
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Hi Barbara,

>But I need a good antiskid for safety.

The very best antiskid I've found, and have been using for 25 years on VALHALLA, is cork. Purchase it in industrial grade fine (sorry I don't have a source at the moment). Paint the decks with enamel, NOT LP like Awlgrip! While wet completely cover with the cork and let dry. Remove the excess and then apply more enamel .. will take several coats and a long drying time. The result is an antiskid that you keep you secure with green water running over your feet and will be soft enough to kneel on without destroying the skin on your knees. Using a hard paint instead of enamel results in #1 sandpaper!

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