1st big project, bronze thru-hull - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 38 Old 05-09-2014 Thread Starter
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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

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I have that printed out and that's what I'm going for, but the sharp curve of the keel slot confuses the matter slightly. The article says to make a plug and then seal it in with thickened epoxy, but I was thinking I'd just make the plug out of thickened epoxy that way I could mold it to the shape of the curve.

But again, I've never worked with epoxy before so it's highly likely that I don't know what I'm talking about.

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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

I don't believe the way to go is mixing epoxy super thick it needs to flow somewhat ?

But a picture of what your trying to change would allow better advise









[IMG]http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/tommays/Seafever/2010_0515
_133044.jpg[/IMG]







On plugging just plain holes I have just beveled the carp out of the glass (12:1)and built up back to the surrounding thickness housing with various sized circles

I have also built various dams when i needed to fill and area or hold the stern tube in proper ailment until it could be reinforced with enough cloth for strength
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post #13 of 38 Old 05-09-2014
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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

I am just thinking that some chopped mat added to your thickened epoxy makes that part of the repair much stronger. Remember, epoxy hasn't much mechanical strength on its own. It's the glass that gives it all the strength. Woven mat would work too, it's just not as easy to work with or malleable in such a circumstance.

I imagine you are proceeding sort of like the "low stress hole" in the West Systems link, where you'll plug the hole, fair the outside, and back up the inside with a couple of layers of glass. My contribution just makes that plug a little better.

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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

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I used G10 for the base too. I didn't use studs, nor did I use bolts through the hull.

I drilled through the bolt holes, then drilled a little larger area for the bolt heads so they would be recessed into the G10 plate.

Next time I haul out, I will have 6 or 7 more to replace and plan to install the same way. MaineSail's instructions were great help.
The removable studs are by design and there for a reason. Try to get a flange off that has been bedded and you will invariably damage the bolts/studs. You usually need to pry it at an angle and with studs in place that does not work, BTDT... If they can't be double nutted, removed and replaced you're pretty much going to need to cut the whole plate out.. Use tapped studs NOT captive bolts.... Each 5/16" stud, into just 1/2" fiberglass far exceeds ABYC strength standards and you have three!

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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

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My first big project on my little boat!

The Catalina 22 was built with a garden-hose style valve glassed directly to the hull for the sink and cockpit drain. I'm replacing it with a bronze thru-hull.

This might be mass overkill for a tiny boat that will be sailing on a tiny lake, but one of my goals with this boat is to learn how to do things The Right Way so I'll have the experience for future, larger boats.

So I've got a printout of Maine Sail's instructions, and a big pile of 1" bronze hardware:



Any tips, tricks, or advice?
Decouple the tee from the valve with a length of hose that gets it above static waterline. If it is in a safe location that would be okay but best to come off the valve with hose, then to the tee...
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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

I agree with Mainesail. The higher the bronze fittings are the less force it requires to damage something.

If you use fiberglass mat beware that most mat is not compatible with epoxy. The binders that hold it together dissolve in the styrene in polyester. There is no styrene in epoxy. Only use mat if it is specifically stated "to be used with epoxy".

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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

Groco has backing blocks similar to Mainesail's no through bolt method. They don't state what material they are, I guess fiberglass.

From Groco's catalog:

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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

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Decouple the tee from the valve with a length of hose that gets it above static waterline. If it is in a safe location that would be okay but best to come off the valve with hose, then to the tee...
That sounds like good advice, fewer hoses and fittings below the waterline.

It would take some heft away from my manly pile of bronze though

I suppose the thing to do would be to have both cockpit drains go right to a 90º pointed towards a T in the middle. That hose could be supported to the floor of the cockpit and they'd meet in a T and there'd only be one hose going down below the waterline. I may have to order more stuff.

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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

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Originally Posted by Minnesail View Post
That sounds like good advice, fewer hoses and fittings below the waterline.

It would take some heft away from my manly pile of bronze though

I suppose the thing to do would be to have both cockpit drains go right to a 90º pointed towards a T in the middle. That hose could be supported to the floor of the cockpit and they'd meet in a T and there'd only be one hose going down below the waterline. I may have to order more stuff.
If this is for cockpit drains, I suggest that you eliminate the "T" entirely, and bore another hole - meaning that you'll need another manly pile of bronze. By using a "T" you are effectively cutting the total draining capacity in half, and doubling the time that it would take to empty the cockpit, and doubling likelyhood of a plugged drain.


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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

A slight deviation of the thread please. Does anyone build an enclosure around seacocks? The top of the enclosure would be above the water line so if something should fail the water is contained in the enclosure ?

I now return you to the normally schedule subject of this thread.

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Last edited by Captainmeme; 05-11-2014 at 09:23 AM.
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