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post #21 of 38 Old 05-11-2014
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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

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A slight deviation of the thread please. Does any build an enclosure around seacocks? The top of the enclosure would be above the water line so if something should fail the water is contained in the enclosure ?
Commonly done on metal boats and called a seachest.



I've never seen one on a fiberglass boat although this pic may be on a fiberglass boat.

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post #22 of 38 Old 05-11-2014 Thread Starter
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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

This is what I'm replacing:

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post #23 of 38 Old 05-11-2014
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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

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This is what I'm replacing:


Correct the issues, and do it right this time, so you don't have to do it all over again. I suggest that each hose deserves its own through hull.
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post #24 of 38 Old 05-11-2014
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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

Yeah Minnesail, you do need to fix that. I'd do that as a seachest. For my part, I'd never drill more holes in the boat than I absolutely have to.
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post #25 of 38 Old 05-11-2014
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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

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My first big project on my little boat!

The Catalina 22 was built with a garden-hose style valve glassed directly to the hull for the sink and cockpit drain. I'm replacing it with a bronze thru-hull.

This might be mass overkill for a tiny boat that will be sailing on a tiny lake, but one of my goals with this boat is to learn how to do things The Right Way so I'll have the experience for future, larger boats.

So I've got a printout of Maine Sail's instructions, and a big pile of 1" bronze hardware:



Any tips, tricks, or advice?
On very bottom of the picture is picture of bronze thru-hull with straight thread.
Usually nut of some sort tightens(this is fancy one) it from the inside. This is all covered with lot of some kind glue to make permanent seal. Then comes ball valve with tapered pipe thread on both side. Question is how this can work straight thread and pipe thread?
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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

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On very bottom of the picture is picture of bronze thru-hull with straight thread.
Usually nut of some sort tightens(this is fancy one) it from the inside. This is all covered with lot of some kind glue to make permanent seal. Then comes ball valve with tapered pipe thread on both side. Question is how this can work straight thread and pipe thread?
It cannot work well. That is the reason for the flange adaptor shown in the picture. The other proper installation would be a true seacock which has straight threads where it mates with the through hull.
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post #27 of 38 Old 05-11-2014
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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

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Originally Posted by Osprey 26 View Post
On very bottom of the picture is picture of bronze thru-hull with straight thread.
Usually nut of some sort tightens(this is fancy one) it from the inside. This is all covered with lot of some kind glue to make permanent seal. Then comes ball valve with tapered pipe thread on both side. Question is how this can work straight thread and pipe thread?
It is not supposed to work but MANY builders simply choose to IGNORE the safety standards and connect NPT valves to NPS thru-hull fittings..

The proper method, is as shown, with a proper flanged seacock or a Groco flanged adapter which has NPS into the bottom and NPT threads on the top...
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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

Adding that the reason for the NPS thread is that it enables the installer to cut the through hull fitting to the correct length to accommodate the thickness of the hull and backing plate, while the NPT allows the seacock to be tightened down onto the flange.


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post #29 of 38 Old 05-12-2014
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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

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Groco has backing blocks similar to Mainesail's no through bolt method. They don't state what material they are, I guess fiberglass.

From Groco's catalog:

A few months back I called Groco and asked what material their backing plate was made of. The tech support did not know exactly, but said the material is like a man made plastic plywood. It is not solid and the literature states it can form to non flat surfaces. I am sure you cannot drill and tap the Groco backing plates. The backing plates would only be of use if you plan to through bolt a seacock or Groco adaptor plate. These cannot be used like Maine sail drill and taps the G10 and epoxies to the hull.

Last edited by casey1999; 05-12-2014 at 05:56 PM.
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post #30 of 38 Old 05-12-2014 Thread Starter
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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

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A few months back I called Groco and asked what material their backing plate was made of. The tech support did not know exactly, but said the material is like a man made plastic plywood. It is not solid and the literature states it can form to non flat surfaces. I am sure you cannot drill and tap the Groco backing plates. The backing plates would only be of use if you plan to through bolt a seacock or Groco adaptor plate. These cannot be used like Maine sail drill and taps the G10 and epoxies to the hull.
I couldn't find any place that sells them. I thought I could save a step and save having to buy a big hole saw if I could buy a pre-shaped backing plate, but although they're in the catalog I couldn't find any website selling them.

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