1st big project, bronze thru-hull - Page 4 - SailNet Community
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post #31 of 38 Old 05-12-2014
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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

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I couldn't find any place that sells them. I thought I could save a step and save having to buy a big hole saw if I could buy a pre-shaped backing plate, but although they're in the catalog I couldn't find any website selling them.
Yes I was hoping the same thing. If you want them, just go to the Groco website and look up Groco distributors, they can special order them for you. In any case, they do not look like they would work. In fact, I am really not sure how they can be used. It looks like Groco would expect the installer to use the thru hull itself as the sole method of connecting the seacock to the hull. This backing plate would just distribute to loads on the hull. This would be no different than sticking a piece of plywood under the seacock (or adapter fitting). With the thread inserts, it looks as if Groco is not expecting the installer to through bolt the seacock/adapter plate.
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post #32 of 38 Old 05-12-2014
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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

Lots of good advice. The most important issue to me is that...

Every through hull eventually becomes a step or hand hold. If you can grab it and break it, there is too much leverage or there needs to be better support.

(when asked how he reached the starting holds on a difficult rock climbing problem that clearly favored taller climbers - he was perhaps 5'5")

"Well, I just climb up to them."

by Joe Brown, English rock climber




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post #33 of 38 Old 05-14-2014
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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

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I couldn't find any place that sells them. I thought I could save a step and save having to buy a big hole saw if I could buy a pre-shaped backing plate, but although they're in the catalog I couldn't find any website selling them.

There is a fiberglass product I know as 'strong-back' which I believe is 'structural fiberglass' at McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com) you can get that and fabricate a backing plate for yourself. You may be able to buy something like you want at McMaster, whether or not fiberglass
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post #34 of 38 Old 05-14-2014
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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

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There is a fiberglass product I know as 'strong-back' which I believe is 'structural fiberglass' at McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com) you can get that and fabricate a backing plate for yourself. You may be able to buy something like you want at McMaster, whether or not fiberglass
Are you talking about G10 (Garolite)? I used that for my thru-hulls; also, got it from McMaster-Carr. Used West Systems 404 mixed into epoxy for the adhesive to the hull. I think that is what people used on other threads on this topic.

Maybe this will be useful: I have used G10 for a number of different things. It is really a hard material. I use a saber saw with fine teeth to rough cut rounded shapes. Then do final shaping using either a sanding disc on the table saw or sanding attachment on the angle grinder. This makes a lot of dust. The dust will coat everything in the shop. I do it outside if using the angle grinder. I rigged up a vacuum attachment for the table saw.

When cutting G-10 on the table saw, I buy cheap plywood blades (fine spaced teeth). They don't last too long. But normally, there are not very many cuts to make.

Last edited by gbgreen59; 05-14-2014 at 10:31 AM.
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post #35 of 38 Old 05-14-2014 Thread Starter
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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

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I have used G10 for a number of different things. It is really a hard material. I use a saber saw with fine teeth to rough cut rounded shapes. Then do final shaping using either a sanding disc on the table saw or sanding attachment on the angle grinder.
Yeah, I have a little sheet of G10 that I'm going to use for the backing plate. That stuff seems crazy durable!

So the jigsaw works for round cuts? I was thinking about that, but I'm afraid I wouldn't be able to cut a very neat circle.

The other option is a hole saw, but that means picking up a moderately expensive hole saw that I'd likely only use once or twice.

(It would also mean clearing away the rubble from the corner of my garage so I could get to my drill press, but that's another issue…)

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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

I do a rough cut with the sabre saw...outside the line. Then finish shaping by sanding with the tools mentioned above.

I've used the method you mentioned too and work just fine. The really big cutters get pretty expensive, but not that bad. Makes it an easier, less messy job too.
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post #37 of 38 Old 05-14-2014
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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

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Originally Posted by Minnesail View Post
Yeah, I have a little sheet of G10 that I'm going to use for the backing plate. That stuff seems crazy durable!

So the jigsaw works for round cuts? I was thinking about that, but I'm afraid I wouldn't be able to cut a very neat circle.

The other option is a hole saw, but that means picking up a moderately expensive hole saw that I'd likely only use once or twice.

(It would also mean clearing away the rubble from the corner of my garage so I could get to my drill press, but that's another issue…)
Bi-metal hole saw. Dig out the drill press. G10 is tough stuff. I used a pulsing technique on drill press to fab several backing plates from 1/2" G10.

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post #38 of 38 Old 05-14-2014 Thread Starter
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Re: 1st big project, bronze thru-hull

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Bi-metal hole saw. Dig out the drill press. G10 is tough stuff. I used a pulsing technique on drill press to fab several backing plates from 1/2" G10.
I guess that's what I'll do. $40 for a 6" bi-metal hole saw at Home Depot. I'll just have to think of something else to use it for to justify the expense. Oversize checkers set?

I'm really not looking forward to tunneling my way back to the drill press... A winter's worth of procrastination is stacked up in front of it.

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