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post #41 of 53 Old 08-15-2014
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Re: The WTF challenge!

Could you use an oversized drill bit to get it out of there, fill the hole with epoxy and put in a tap to install a new stud? Or epoxy a stud in place?

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post #42 of 53 Old 08-15-2014
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Re: The WTF challenge!

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Originally Posted by MedSailor View Post
Also, as far as I know (thought I don't really know) there isn't a stainless plate that these screws go into. I and some others originally thought the screws were directly threaded into the fiberglass but a surveyor who was recently aboard saw what looks like a thin jacket surrounding the screws which he figures is a stainless sleeve into which they are threaded.

Patience I have. Loads of time, I really don't have right now, but I still want to have a crack at it. Time consuming jobs are expensive jobs in the yard unfortunately. You guys should see the yard estimates to undo this mess!



MedSailor
Med, if it's a thin jacket of stainless and you're time constrained I'll give you something to think about.

Why not take a hole saw that's slightly larger than the sleeve and drill both sleeve and bolt out?

On my boat the cockpit sole is cored (I think, never had to go there). If yours is too you can use a bent nail on a drill to take out some of the coring around the hole.

Now you have two options:
1 - If you have room above the headliner:
Seal the bottom of the hole and fill it with epoxy thickened with microballons. The thickened epoxy won't try and run out around whatever dam you're using on the inside (preventing a mess). Let it cure overnight and drill a hole through the cured epoxy just big enough for the bolt. Secure it on the inside with a nut, fender washer and Loctite. Your favorite sealer spluged in the hole will keep it water tight.

2 - If there's not much room with the headliner:
Thread a throwaway bolt into the proper sized nut after coating the threads with wax (lots of wax). Insert it so the nut will be trapped in the core layer and squeeze thickened epoxy around it, trapping the nut. Do the same for all four and let it set up overnight. The wax will allow you to back the sacrificial bolts out. Just make sure they're all at 90 degrees to the deck.

You can keep overflow epoxy from dripping into the berth by duct taping disposable plastic containers over the hole from below.

You can keep the nuts perpendicular to the deck by using a scrap piece of plywood.

The toughest part of the job is that first cut with the hole saw...

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The sail, the play of its pulse so like our own lives: so thin and yet so full of life, so noiseless when it labors hardest, so noisy and impatient when least effective." - Henry David Thoreau
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post #43 of 53 Old 08-15-2014
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Re: The WTF challenge!

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Originally Posted by MedSailor View Post
I and some others originally thought the screws were directly threaded into the fiberglass but a surveyor who was recently aboard saw what looks like a thin jacket surrounding the screws which he figures is a stainless sleeve into which they are threaded.
Shop The Hillman Group 8-Count 5/16-in-18 Stainless Steel Standard (SAE) Brad Hole Tee Nuts at Lowes.com
or
Shop The Hillman Group 5/16-in-18 Stainless Steel Standard (SAE) 3-Prong Tee Nut at Lowes.com

I just used these to fix something similar...






Edit: The full Centerboard access plate, pulley and cable repair can be seen here.

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Last edited by Delta-T; 08-16-2014 at 10:45 PM.
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post #44 of 53 Old 08-15-2014 Thread Starter
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Re: The WTF challenge!

Man this thread is awesome! I should have hauled out at the SailNet yard! I'm learning lots of tricks.

JimMcGee- One of the things I liked about the nauticats is that the decks are solid fiberglass. No wood. No core. No need for exotic drill-fill-drill-seal procedures. I figured I can move my deck hardware and running rigging about with reckless abandon and not worry about ever having leaks which some day create the dreaded spongy deck.

The yard did originally suggest drilling out around the bolts with hole saws but they were suggesting a pretty big hole and back-fill. It was a HUGELY expensive quote and I was worried about the structural weakening of such big holes with just filler instead of contiguous glass. I care, because the deck is structural. So much so that my deck stepped mizzen doesn't even have a compression post or bulkhead below it. Just deck.

Smaller hole saws with large washers might be a good way to go...

Delta-T- I think I REALLY like what you've done with that project. Thanks for the links to the exotic fasteners as well.

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post #45 of 53 Old 08-15-2014
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Re: The WTF challenge!

why is drilling holes hugely expensive? I just dont get why yards these days have ludicrous prices for the simplest things

basically yo are ripping something out, pluging back up and fairing then you are ready for your new installation

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post #46 of 53 Old 08-16-2014
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Re: The WTF challenge!

With respect to the hole saw idea you can use a hole saw without the pilot bit and center the saw over your bolt. With care and practice you can do it freehand. Safer and easier is to cut a hole in a sacrificial board that is a couple of feet long. Center the hole over the bolt and kneel on the ends to hold it down as you ease the saw into the glass. Cutting through fiberglass generates a lot of heat so take your time. A helper with a vacuum cleaner to suck up the debris as you cut will improve visibility and make less of a mess below.

You already have holes for the existing bolts. Drilling them out and repairing them, drilling new holes, and throughbolting will not have any significant impact on structural strength.

A portable drill press, the sort you clamp a drill motor into, will help tremendously getting the holes square.

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post #47 of 53 Old 08-16-2014
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Re: The WTF challenge!

EZ outs were mentioned above, but there is nothing more difficult to deal with than an ez out, which had been broken off inside the stud. Ask me how I know. Be careful with them.

I would make some heat and penetrating oil effort, but would quickly give it up for a drill. Cut the stud flush with the deck and either get a bit large enough to remove it (sleeve and all) or use as small a hole saw as you can. The hole saw is probably the way I would go, drilling stainless is very difficult. Then dremel a slot inside the wall of the hole, epoxy/glass it shut and redrill what you need. Use a good washer below that reaches original deck material, if you're worried about the epoxy.

As an afterthought, with all that corrosion, you're not considering reusing the sleeves? This looks like a do over.


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post #48 of 53 Old 08-16-2014
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Re: The WTF challenge!

While you're pondering the extraction, I would clean up the work site. Dig out or grind out all that old chaulk and vacuum. You're going to have to do it anyway. Clean the entire perimeter around the base of the studs flush to the deck and expose the sleeves. Get down to bare metal. It will help give the PB blaster or ATF and acetone mix a better shot at doling their thing.

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post #49 of 53 Old 08-16-2014
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Re: The WTF challenge!

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EZ outs were mentioned above, but there is nothing more difficult to deal with than an ez out, which had been broken off inside the stud.
Yea it does add another level of complexity when that happens.
I have to admit, any time that has happened to me it was self inflected due to lack of patience & too big a wrench.

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post #50 of 53 Old 08-17-2014
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Re: The WTF challenge!

SVAuspicious raises a good point.

I was thinking of something like this Drill Guide Attachment and using a hole saw without the pilot bit but forgot to attach a link.

I'd also invest in a diamond hole saw bit for this job. Fiberglass can dull a standard hole saw pretty quickly, especially if you have a solid deck.


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The sail, the play of its pulse so like our own lives: so thin and yet so full of life, so noiseless when it labors hardest, so noisy and impatient when least effective." - Henry David Thoreau

Last edited by JimMcGee; 08-17-2014 at 09:49 AM.
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