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post #1 of 53 Old 08-15-2014 Thread Starter
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The WTF challenge!

Details of the events surrounding these pictures are intentionally vague (for now) but it appears there may be good news on the horizon and soon I may be less vague about what's going on. Oh, and why I'm calling it the WTF challenge should be fairly self explanatory when you see the photos below....


SO! How would YOU go about removing these gnadgered-up studs? What they appear to be (or were) is 316 stainless machine screws with a phillips head. I can access the back side of some, perhaps all of them, and they appear to be threaded into stainless sleeves which are epoxied into the solid fiberglass deck. Oh, how I wish this was addressed correctly in the beginning before the bolts were all gnadgered up, but it wasn't, so this is what I have.

I haven't really tried to remove them yet. All I've tried so far is applying Kroll penetrating oil once, and I put a vice grip on them and was unable to get them to budge. The yard says they tried to budge them (not so sure about how hard they tried) and say they can not be easily removed.

A prize will go to the person who has the idea/technique that will successfully remove these bolts!





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post #2 of 53 Old 08-15-2014
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Re: The WTF challenge!

larger vise grips with a pipe the end for leverage. Then bang on the pipe with a metal hammer to "shock" it.
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post #3 of 53 Old 08-15-2014
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Re: The WTF challenge!

Med,

My symphaties!

You should use a knocking machine Not sure what the name is in english, but a machine that knocks at the same time as it turns the screw.
Such are sometimes used when chaning tyres, something I do twice a year.

Prior to attacing you should apply copious amounts of oil or whatever. It always helps, at least somewhat.
If you can, try to apply some heat (you can) and some cold (ice, frozen Nitrogen) in order to get the metall to expand and contract. This should be repeated many times. And oil, did I say that?

With this, I succeeded to remove stainless screws in Alu, that had been out-door for 25 years.

Worth a try.


Best of luck

J
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post #4 of 53 Old 08-15-2014
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Re: The WTF challenge!

with the exception of one(the upper left one in most of the pics) those are all pretty easy

the one that is broken might not have enough strength to vise grip it

my advice is to heat cool treat them

heat them up then mix up a half and half solution of atf and acetone

when the bolt is heated it will wick into the threads let sit...tap tap to jarr them a but

then use the vise grips and they will pop out easily

cheers
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post #5 of 53 Old 08-15-2014
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Re: The WTF challenge!

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Originally Posted by Jaramaz View Post
Med,

My symphaties!

You should use a knocking machine Not sure what the name is in english, but a machine that knocks at the same time as it turns the screw.
Such are sometimes used when chaning tyres, something I do twice a year.

Prior to attacing you should apply copious amounts of oil or whatever. It always helps, at least somewhat.
If you can, try to apply some heat (you can) and some cold (ice, frozen Nitrogen) in order to get the metall to expand and contract. This should be repeated many times. And oil, did I say that?

With this, I succeeded to remove stainless screws in Alu, that had been out-door for 25 years.

Worth a try.


Best of luck

J
they call those tools iimpact driver down here

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post #6 of 53 Old 08-15-2014
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Re: The WTF challenge!

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Originally Posted by Jaramaz View Post
You should use a knocking machine Not sure what the name is in english, but a machine that knocks at the same time as it turns the screw.
Such are sometimes used when chaning tyres, something I do twice a year.
It's called an Impact Driver, and I agree.

Personally, I have used this with great success;


Step 1 - heat the screw with a butane torch;


Step 2 - spray with penetrating oil

Step 3 - key the remnants of the stud into the chuck of the above reversible drill/driver, and set to hammer drill, very high (but not infinite) torque. Switch drill/driver to reverse, and pull the trigger.


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post #7 of 53 Old 08-15-2014 Thread Starter
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Re: The WTF challenge!

Am impact driver used in the first place sure would have helped avoid this situation.

Any thoughts on how to apply said impact driver to the gnadgered studs? Only one of them has anything left of a slot on the head.

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post #8 of 53 Old 08-15-2014
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Re: The WTF challenge!

When none of the above work, Grind it all flush and bed a new whatever and covering board.
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post #9 of 53 Old 08-15-2014
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Re: The WTF challenge!

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Originally Posted by MedSailor View Post
Am impact driver used in the first place sure would have helped avoid this situation.

Any thoughts on how to apply said impact driver to the gnadgered studs? Only one of them has anything left of a slot on the head.

MedSailor
The ones that you have drilled pilot holes into may be a problem. However, you MAY be able to key them directly into the chuck of the above pictured drill/driver.

If you cannot use the drill, then vice grips and a hammer are your friends. Heat and oil as above, then crank the vicegrips down tight, and have a friend give the stud a stout whack, as you try to back the stud out with the vicegrips.
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post #10 of 53 Old 08-15-2014
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Re: The WTF challenge!

They look pretty messed up, but I thought I'd throw another idea at you. It might be too late for this if you've already gone the "vice-grip smash" route.

Penetrating oil for a day or two (PBblaster or SeaFoam... not Liquid Doesn'tWrench).

If you can renew the threads with a die and if there's room enough to get two nuts on, tighten the two nuts together firmly, then use the appropriate size wrench on the bottom nut to get leverage on the stuff. If necessary, use heat at that point, too. That's how I get out stubbornly rusted exhaust manifold studs in my cars. Your threads may be too far gone, but I can't tell for certain from the pics.

Best of luck... this stuff isn't fun, and I'm sorry you're faced with this dilemma.

Barry


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