Can't start My Yanmar

[bun243]

This is a Yanmar 2gm Have bled the engine to the filter but can't seem to get fuel to the bleeder bolts at the top of the cylinders. Any ideas would be appreciated
Thanks
Jon

[awayocean]

12 V Inline fuel pump for +- $30.Check the bleeder bolt on the pump

GOOD LUCK

[trantor12020]

somewhere might be leaking in air or fuel blocked.
1. ensure fuel feed from tank to Primary filter is ok.
2. all hoses and connections (elbows at Primary filter, Banjo connector at Sec.Filter), bleeder nuts, filter locking rings/nuts are not leaking.
3. use manual pump at AC Pump (1st low pressure pump) to prime fuel thru' Primary filter and bleed off at Sec.Filter.
If your engine had start normal before this problem arises, chances are its due to starvation caused by air leaking in from somewhere along the fuel supply. This lesson cost me $1200 and I'm sharing it with you. Good luck!

[Gene T]

Always start at the source with fuel problems. Crud in the tank can easily plug the pick up tube, then air gets in the system past an o-ring at the filter. A vacuum gauge is one of the most useful instruments on a boat. A simple outboard bulb pump can be used from the tank to the filter to bleed the system, if the bulb collapses when the engine is running it means the pick up tube is plugged. Clean the tank, change filters.

[camaraderie]

from your note it sounds like you bled to the filter but not the hi pressure fuel pump (which lies between the engine mouted filter and the injectors). If you don't bleed the pump then the fuel can't get to the individual injectors. All the other advice above is great but if you did not bleed the pump as well I would try that first.

[Tequiza Terri]

I have had similar issues. I learned my lesson when I ran out of gas. I will never do that again! I filled the tank and tried to bleed the engine myself. I ended up burning up the starter.

I have a great mechanic. He is my best friend now. He works out of Jax FL.

Terri Ivins
"Stitches"
1976 28 Morgan OI

[GordMay]

Bleeding Yanmar GM Series Engines:
Open the small bleed screw on top of the engine mounted fuel filter and operate the fuel lift pump by hand. If the hand priming lever doesn't have any resistance through any of its travel, rotate the engine crankshaft through 360deg. Use the starter motor or crank handle. There is no resistance to the hand priming lever because the internal actuating arm is on the top of the cam that drives it. Rotating the engine crankshaft 360deg will turn the camshaft 180deg, the arm will now be on the back of it's cam and you should feel resistance when operating the hand priming lever.
After the fuel filter has been purged of air, close the bleed screw (don't do it too tight, it's only little) and open the one on the fuel injection pump. Again, after the air has been purged, close the bleed screw.
The engine should now start, if not you will have to bleed the high pressure side as follows:
Crack the pipe nut at each injector, open the decompression levers and rotate the engine with the starter motor.
When the air appears to have been purged (the fuel looks clear, not whitish), tighten the nuts firmly, close the decompression levers and start the engine. Check for leaks and clean up any spilt fuel.

[gershel]

This might sound stupid, but it happened to me. My shut-off was located in the lazzarette. After pulling the shut-off to turn off the engine, I failed to push it back down to the running position. The next time I tried to start it, it wouldn't start(duh!). I went through a lot of the things that you tried with no luck, until someone suggested that I try to go through what I did the last time I shut the engine down, and it became obvious. Because the shut-off was in tha lazzerette, I never thought of looking there first.
Marc

[Omatako]

Hey I'm not sure if the 2G is the same as the 3G but if it is, save your batteries and starter motor by lifting the decompressor levers on the cylinders while you're turning the engine over to bleed. I've always found that turning the 3G by hand works OK to bleed.
All the other info regarding starting at the tank is good but you have to bleed at every possible point from tank to injector. If you miss any one of these points you'll still have air in the lines and it'll not start. Tweak the lift pump with the banjo bolt on the engine side of the line loosened, vent any air. If you get a constant stream of bubbles, check connections between the lift pump and the tank.
Once you get clean diesel at the lift pump, close the connection and move to the bleed screw on the injector pump (that's the one that has steel pipes running to the injectors). When you get clean diesel there, move the the banjo bolts on each injector and bleed out any air there. If it still doesn't start (don't forget to drop the decompressor levers ) you've got bigger problems than just air, maybe a blockage somewhere as previously noted.
When last did you change your filters?