Tayana 37 Hawsepipe remove/replace

[John A. Oliver]

Need to remove and replace, hopefully with same part, the fwd port hawse pipe. Just in case name is prob; the hawse is used to run mooring lines from cleat to dock through rail, six on boat, fwd midships and aft P & S. Need to know how to remove without destroying it. Any handy hints on reinstalling plus any special tools required, etc., much appreciated. Boat is in Mexico on the hard waiting for my return in October. Going back by bus so limited ability to haul too much stuff.
Thanks
John

[RichH]

Join the Tayana owner''s email group here on Sailnet. Lots of Tayana owners have removed and rebedded their pipes.
Mine is through bolted with four bronze cap screws which were run-in then filed/formed flush with the flange. On mine I know I will have to drill out the remaining heads, etc. of the through bolts and replace with new bolts, etc. .... but then EVERY Tayana is ''different''. Join the group!

[John A. Oliver]

Rich:
My pipe does not have through bolts or screws holding it in place. There is evidence of a bronze stub in four places sticking through the inboard side. I have been told that the pipe was probably bedded in place since no screws, bolts, fasteners, etc. are visible. Does that mean you get under the flange with a prybar and work it loose? I would also install some bronze countersink head fasteners to hold the thing in place after removal and re-installation.

[Venton]

Not sure on the Tayana, but on my Tashiba the hawsepipes looked like they were not through bolted. However, on very close examination one could see that they where and the heads probably spot welded and then ground flush and polished. It was necessary to drill them out for removal. Once they were out it was obvious. One other suggestion. When I got them all cleaned up I filled in voids (mine were wood blocks between outer and iner hull) with epoxy and used plastic straws as guides for the new through bolts. After the epoxy set, the straws could be removed, worked extreemly well. I then rebedded with new through bolts which were put in the same countersink holes in the pipe and cap.