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post #1 of 28 Old 05-30-2015 Thread Starter
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Ranger 23 Paint and...

So here it is, a 1969 Ranger 23. Ebay's finest $609 boat, and the first that I've ever actually sailed. Long story short, I took it out once for a few hours, had a blast, and decided it needed a major cosmetic overhaul before being seen on the water again. While it looks somewhat ok in these photo's the PO had on the Ebay add, the boat didn't look so nice in person. It seemed pretty solid though, aside from it's very utilitarian appearance.





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Re: Ranger 23 Paint and...

I actually started this project a week ago, and realized it wouldn't be fair for me to do it without posting the project, so I'm playing catch up a little right now.

So the first big decision that needed to be made was the color scheme and budget, (basically as inexpensive as possible)...but who ever sticks to budgets anyway right? My girlfriend just LOVES the navy blue hulls, and somehow talked me into it, despite me having a background in automotive painting and knowing just how much work it is to paint anything in such a dark color. The decks are going gloss white with light grey nonskid, and since this is a trailer sailor and will rarely ever be in the water for more than a couple days at a time, we are skipping the anti-fowling bottom paint in favor of a alkyd rust colored red bottom to suit her taste of a red white and blue boat.

The plan as it stands is to paint the topsides with Rustoleum Navy Blue topside paint, but I am still undecided as to it's application method. Spraying it on, is of course going to yield the least orange peel to sand off later, but rolling and tipping is more paint efficient, as no paint is lost to over spray. I never had any luck rolling and tipping in previous attempts, no matter the amount of thinning, good brush, cheap one, etc...So I'm really leaning toward spraying the topsides. The big problem with this paint is the amount of time that it takes to cure, and the number of coats that it takes to apply the the stuff. With a full day between each coat, I hope the blue covers better than their red.

So this is how the boat looked once I got it home on the trailer.



The paint that is on the boat is so bad it makes me want to track down the SOB that applied it, just so that I can send them hate mail. It would seem they did literally no prep work whatsoever...just hired the first 10 year old kid off the street and handed them a bucket of paint and a dollar store paint brush.



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Re: Ranger 23 Paint and...

So the first day of the project was spent with my GF stripping the hardware off the boat. It probably took us around 4 hours or so to remove it all, but between the friends stopping by and a few drinks, we did it over two afternoons.



The next two days were spend with DA sanders in hand with 80 grit paper taking off as much of the old paint as we could. This paint does not want to come off easily, despite the horrible application. It turns out this was yellow boat in it's younger days.





I wish that I had some before pics of the toe rail, but the blue paint which was just as terribly applied is coming off fairly well in favor of a natural finish.



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Re: Ranger 23 Paint and...

Anyone know where I can get new emblems for the cockpit sides? I don't think these are going to survive being chiseled off.



While the boat as a whole seems fairly sound, I did know that there were going to be a few things to fix along the way. One of which was some soft area on the deck toward the bow, and a couple other area's where the stantions were bolted down so tight that they literally crushed the deck, but more on those later when I get to them.

Fixing the soft deck, usually means doing one of a couple things. Drilling a bunch of holes in only the deck core and outer layer so that the core can dry, then inject it with epoxy. Or, if the problem is bad enough, cut out the entire outer deck skin in order to replace the rotten core all together. Being that I'm trying to stick to a very low budget, and because the problem didn't seem widespread enough to warrant it...I went with the drill a bunch of holes method.

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post #5 of 28 Old 05-30-2015
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Re: Ranger 23 Paint and...

Good luck with the project. The Ranger 23 is a great little boat --- and at that price it was a steal even given the issues.
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post #6 of 28 Old 05-30-2015
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Re: Ranger 23 Paint and...

For emblems I had decals made for my Cal 28. Get your boat name & registration at same time.....Dale

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Cal 28, 1967
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Where God got it done!
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post #7 of 28 Old 05-30-2015
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Re: Ranger 23 Paint and...

There is a good chance that the old paint is failing because it was not a good quality polyurethane paint. That is the same mistake that you are about to make by using Rustolium. Frankly, on a smallish boat like the Ranger 23(which by the way is a super boat for that size and era, and certainly one of my favorites.) you are not going to use that much paint. Since you have the skills and gear to spray the boat, minimally I would recommend using a polyurethane automotive paint which are less expensive than marine urethanes. But frankly, I would suggest using a marine paint, with its superior UV resistance, since the cost of the paint is the smallest part of your project costs.

On the emblems, I can only tell you what someone described to me. His emblems were shot so he pulled them off as carefully as he could and glued the pieces back together. Where pieces were missing from one side emblem, he carefully cut off the broken edge and cut parts from the other sides emblem until he had a complete emblem. He then waxed the emblem and made two plaster molds of the emblem. He waxed the mold and cast the new emblems out of thickened epoxy. The hardest part was getting the emblem out of the plaster and cleaning it up. He then painted it.

I also want to thank you for posting your process,

Respectfully,
Jeff
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Re: Ranger 23 Paint and...

What Jeff said... Esp about the concept of 'cheaping out' on the paint. That's a short sided view that may well have you back to square one a couple of years down the road.

You appear to be doing a good job on prep; give it justice with a durable paint. You won't regret it...

Ron

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".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
Capt G E Ericson (from "The Cruel Sea" by Nicholas Monsarrat)
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Re: Ranger 23 Paint and...

Congrats on a nice project boat and great price! To restore the emblems which I've done on the automotive side of things... take the current emblem and carefully fashion the missing pieces out of clay and allow to dry... then take a silicone mold of the emblem... clean the mold and spray 'PAM' or other release agent and mix up some 2 part JB Weld, use this as it is tough and will take paint easily...

I've done this for missing Ferrari/custom show cars and it looks great... even chromed some of the pieces successfully.
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Re: Ranger 23 Paint and...

From what I've read about the rustoleum marine topside paint is that it's basically as good, or better than brightsides for less money. It just takes forever to cure if applied too thick. Right now, I've got more time than money. We plan on using the same paint on the decks, and using interdeck for the non-skid. That said, we are cheaping out pretty big on the primer. (Zinsser bullseye 1-2-3) Yes, it's likely the most important component. From what I could gather though it's super tough stuff, it's rated to withstand 30+psi of negative hydrostatic pressure and is recommended to paint shower tiles with. So it must be pretty waterproof. Given that this little boat is going to be sailed off a trailer, and only in the water couple days at a time, I decided it should work. I did wet sand a section of the transom, and the stuff is as hard or harder to sand down than any automotive primer I've ever used short of the polyester ones, but those were avoided because they absorb moisture better than your average bounty paper towel. Ultimately it is a risk, but with using inexpensive materials, the cost to repair any damages it also very low, and the paints are available just about anywhere, coupled with the boat being on a trailer most the time, access to the hull to do any repairs is super easy as well.

The bottom is going to be painted with Aqua-life hybrid alkyd enamel. This is one area I'm a little weary of, but this coat is purely cosmetic. I'm not going to sand the existing bottom paint all the way off, just until reasonable smooth, and then paint over it. This way any barrier coats on the bottom now will still be able to to their job should this alkyd absorb much water and ultimately fail. If it does though, we'll just re-address that issue when it comes time and strip all the paint off the bottom and do it right. I see the cheap alkyd as something that will probably work well enough for my limited use, and be easy to touch up the areas that take a beating while coming on and off the trailer. I live in Morro Bay california, we have insanely high tidal currents, I forget off hand, but I believe it to be in the top ten in the country...and I ramp launch this boat. So it's not always a smooth ride up onto the trailer.

I think that as far as the emblems go, I may try and replicate them by molding new ones, but if that doesn't go too well then I will just make some stencils and paint them on.
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