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  #31  
Old 05-25-2007
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Nice info...Thanks

I understand that Cetol can soften the polysulfide caulking used in some teak seams....careful!

Cleaning our teak decking we just used a boatwash and scrub brush. It was black and upon inspection and you could see the wood fibers. Results were excellent though, brought the deck from old grey to new gold...at least temporarily...no problem with the grey....the decks just needed a good cleaning after being stored for two years. I think actual wood loss was minimal.

Now without salt water to wash the decks daily, how do you sailors in fresh water take care of your decks?

Jim
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  #32  
Old 05-25-2007
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Teak Guard

Since this is the thread that won't die, I'll offer one bit of experience. Don't use Teak Guard. I used it three years ago and it started peeling the same winter. It's taken me these past three years to strip it off and prepare for a new treatment.

My teak is so thin from 25 years of sanding that the next treatment has to have a long life or I'll have no teak left.
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  #33  
Old 05-25-2007
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I've been reworking the teak trim on my boat- it was a very weathered gray. I have used Interlux Teak Restorer as a cleaner and that stuff is awesome- brought the natural wood color back quickly. I am using Cetol's new Natural Teak and it looks very good- not the orange color that is usually associated with Cetol but rather a honey sort of color. I'll put up some pics later this evening.

Wendy
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  #34  
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Leave teak alone, wash with a salt water to kill fungus. Anything else you put on teak is harmful - varnish looks wonderful in teak but does nothing for the wood.
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camaraderie is a jewel in the rough camaraderie is a jewel in the rough camaraderie is a jewel in the rough
Wendy...top off the natural teak with a couple of coats of Cetol gloss and you will really be amazed...then you just touch up with a scotch brite and more gloss over time so you never deepen the nice color of those initial coats of natural.
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Old 05-25-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olegunny
Leave teak alone, wash with a salt water to kill fungus. Anything else you put on teak is harmful - varnish looks wonderful in teak but does nothing for the wood.
I think you may have a couple misnomers there olegunny. Never heard the fungus thing - but, salt water is used to wash teak decks because of sea water's unique ability to stay wet - causing the planks to expand. Dry teak planking will shrink across it's grain and if allowed to dry out too much - the caulking material may stretch to the point of separating from the wood.

Varnishes and other protective coatings, are not only used for beauty, but also to preserve teak's soft grain sections - which eventually weather's down, raising the hard grain sections. Subsequent sandings to smooth out the surface will in time, diminish the wood's thickness.

There is also some confusion regarding the use of Cetol on decks. Sikkins DEK (which has been discontinued) is very different from Cetol Marine, Light and Natural coatings - which were formulated for exterior teak brightwork, but NOT teak decks.

Never use any Cetol Marine finish on decks. These coatings are soft and will wear very quickly. The chemicals may also react with polysulphide caulking - breaking it's wood bond.
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  #37  
Old 05-26-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camaraderie
Wendy...top off the natural teak with a couple of coats of Cetol gloss and you will really be amazed...then you just touch up with a scotch brite and more gloss over time so you never deepen the nice color of those initial coats of natural.
Thanks Cam- I will try this! I finally got some pics up of the teak process for those who are interested.

Wendy
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  #38  
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Giulietta is just really nice Giulietta is just really nice Giulietta is just really nice Giulietta is just really nice Giulietta is just really nice
Teak clean by...salt water......



Picture taken in February almost 1 year after being in the sea
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  #39  
Old 06-25-2007
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Hi Wendy et. al. -

I'm the new owner of an *old* Pearson Vanguard and am dealing with many of the same issues as are discussed here, but am still so new to everything that I hope you'll all forgive me for asking what are probably repetitive, asinine questions! :-)

My issue is that my Vanguard has 3 different types of wood - a Sitka Spruce boom, mostly teak trim on deck and for the toe rail, and mahogany for the rub rail. I've had to scarf in two new pieces of mahogany, but most of the teak has held up fairly well considering she's 43 yrs. old. I opted to sand off the old varnishes/Cetol because some areas under the hardware were standing way proud, but I'm quite pleased with the amount of wood left and the robustness of the wood.

Three problems, though. First, on the boom, I've used the Wisk/bleach combo, tried X14 cleaner and straight bleach to get the mildew and the mildew stains out - when the boom gets wet, you can still see shadows although the mildew smell is gone. Second, on the teak, particularly on the toe rail, there are some areas where water pooled and I have blackened mildew spots 'though the wood is sound. Third, ditto on the mahogany where the metal rub rail guard was, and in addition, now I have two new bright pieces that stand out like a sore thumb. I should add that this boat was in baaaad shape when I bought her - I'm a sucker for the underdog!

So question - I'm planning to use the same as Wendy - Natural Teak Cetol and the high gloss finish - but what is the best cleaning/bleaching product to use with all 4 wood types, and after cleaning do I oil any of the wood to bring back some luster? I'm not sure what products will cause others to fail (like a cleaner or oil under Cetol), so any info anyone could provide would be most appreciated.

Oh, and Wendy, where do I go to see your photos? Dying to get a good look at a finished Cetol product!

Cheers,
Kimberly
Time Well Wasted
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  #40  
Old 06-26-2007
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Tim,

Join the Vanguard yahoo group and you will find a ton of information and pictures. After you join the group look at the photos of #244 Seawolf. I have a picture posted of a teak mast step cover finished with Cetol Natural teak infront of my coaming boards finished with Epiphanes varnish.

If you're brave and you only do it once every 20 years or so you can try a pressure washer. The A+B cleaners work well but are hard on the teak as well. You picks your poision and you takes your chances...


See you on the list.

Mike
Pearson Vanguard #244 Seawolf
Annapolis, MD

Last edited by Mike244; 06-26-2007 at 12:17 AM.
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