cleaning teak

chuckg5 · #1 (**permalink**) 08-02-2006

Just got thru, cleaning the deck an rails of a 42' vagabond. The teak was a nice weathered silver but I wanted to bring back the 'gold'. Using the 2 part cleaner an brightner, I've never seen so much dirt an brown water. Where does it come from? Is it actually dirt & oil from the 'enviroment'. I just don't think our florida air is that dirty. Just curious.
Also, does anyone have a favorite oil for teak. Gold color looks great, longivity is important. thanks!

TejasSailer · #2 (**permalink**) 08-02-2006

We're been using Amazon's Golden Lite n' Easy Teak Oil for about four months and are pleased with the results. However, we have no experience with any other brand. As for long-lasting teak-oil, we're thinking oxymoron. Based on a phone call with Amazon, we think reapplying once a month or more depending on the season is appropriate.

We did not have good success with their Teak Luster. We did with their One-Step Cleaner and Prep.

http://www.mdramazon.com

camaraderie · #3 (**permalink**) 08-02-2006

Chuck...The problem with teak oil of any kind is that it sucks up dirt. Looks wonderful for a little while then gets filthy again and you go through what you just did...which also removes some of the actual teak when you do a 2-part cleaning. I don't think teak oil is a viable long term solution which is why people use cetol and varnish etc. or just let it go natural and soak with seawater to prevent degradation.

chuckg5 · #4 (**permalink**) 08-02-2006

no long lasting teak oil, then, darn.
the brown dirty water wash off, makes sense that's the dirt mixed with the previous oil. I like the silver look, the boat just looks more like new when the teak is cleaned an oiled, maybe I won't oil it next time an see how long that lasts. thank you for the replies!

CBinRI · #5 (**permalink**) 08-04-2006

I just bought a 30 year old boat with new teak decks. The people I have spoken to say to leave it alone except to clean it. Also do your best to keep it dry in the winter.

Omatako · #6 (**permalink**) 08-05-2006

I had teak duckboards in my cockpit and experienced a lot of cracking of the bottoms of my feet after extended trips (I sail barefoot).

Then I noticed a dark patch becoming evident on the duckboards behind the wheel and started to monitor it. The teak was actually drawing body oil out of my feet. I stuck a piece of carpet over the wood and the problem with my cracked feet went away.

Is this coincidence? Has anyone else experienced this? I've made a mental note not to have teak decks again.

chuckg5 · #7 (**permalink**) 08-05-2006

Wow, that's something to watch out for. good reason for boat shoes.
I just cleaned an oiled our 42 vagabond, teak decking an the bottom of my shoes melted somewhat an left black shoe marks on the deck. switched to boat shoes an the same thing happened. strong stuff. another reason to love silver teak.

lauri · #8 (**permalink**) 08-07-2006

A teak deck can be a very beautiful thing, but the real beauty of a teak deck is it's non slip characteristics. If you put anything on it, like oil, you are compromising this highly coveted feature. The best thing you can do for a teak deck is to rinse it down with clean salt water often (daily would not be too much) and avoid brushing with cleaners like the plague. The rails are an entirely different subject and can be treated the same or oiled or varnished. I am contemplating epoxying them and then varnishing over the epoxy. Not a small project, so I'm currently just moving in that direction

, but I've heard the effect would be a lot longer lasting.

foxglove · #9 (**permalink**) 08-07-2006

My 24 year old Pearson 323 has generous amounts of teak. Over the years, I cleaned the teak with standard cleaners (usually with oxalic acid) then oiled. Most years, I also sanded to flatten the grain.

Now, after all of these years, my bunges are falling out, my teak is getting thin, I'm running out of options other than allowing the teak to go gray (like me).

I don't like the look. I would prefer varnish with non-skid patches where I step. I'm afraid to proceed. If and when the varnish peels, I'll have to sand again.

By the way, two years ago, I tried a product called Teak Guard. They claim "After cleaning the teak wood once, you don't reclean your teak, just reapply TeakGuard".

I don't like to complain but almost the entire finish fell off over the first winter and I can't remove the rest. The manufacturer says to use high pressure spray at a low angle. Forget it.

camaraderie · #10 (**permalink**) 08-07-2006

Foxglove... I'd suggest a couple of coats of Cetol followed by a coat of Cetol GLOSS to preserve what you have left while getting CLOSE to the look of varnish. The benefit of Cetol is that you won't have to sand when it begins to wear out. Just rough up the finish with a scotch-brite pad and apply a new coat of gloss...you can even do spot touch-ups. BUT...you have to keep up with things or you'll be back to sandpaper again!