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post #1 of 13 Old 08-15-2006 Thread Starter
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Removing wallcovering adhesive

I just bought a 1978 O'Day 32' center-cockpit from an elderly widow (her husband passed away last October), and there has been water leaking in around the mast for quite a while. The bilge was very moldy, which I've cleaned up, and most of the foam-backed fabric wall covering needed to be removed due to the mold and mildew. I was hoping that someone here might be able to recommend some method (other than sanding) that will remove the old adhesive and deteriorated foam, but not damage the raw fiberglass underneath. I plan on painting the surfaces, so any advice for prepping and priming the surface once I get the mess off would be great. And of course, I'll Spartite the mast to keep this from happening again. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. TIA.
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post #2 of 13 Old 08-15-2006
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There are some very good adhesive removers that should be fiberglass safe... Since the foam is porous, it should remove the foam at the same time. Try this page: http://www.kleanstrip.com/removers.htm

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post #3 of 13 Old 08-16-2006 Thread Starter
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Thanks much for the recommendation; I'm checking out their products online now.
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post #4 of 13 Old 08-16-2006
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Depending on the adhesive they used...some of them are designed to strip easily if you hit them with steam (like a wall paper steamer) while others are extremely hard to remove. The 'citrus' type solvents may be your best bet, they are slower but working in an enclosed hull, any other solvent may be dangerous to breath. The strippers that are sold with a special paper (apply goo, cover with paper, come back next day to peel away the whole thing) may be your best bet for this.
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post #5 of 13 Old 08-16-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor
jThe strippers that are sold with a special paper (apply goo, cover with paper, come back next day to peel away the whole thing) may be your best bet for this.
Have you used this on paint? I looked at some the other day at west marine
it sounds great, but is it really worth it? or do i just need to get out the in the heat of the day some good old 36grit and the orbital?
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post #6 of 13 Old 08-18-2006
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BTW, the resins used in fiberglass are fairly similar to those used in paints and some adhesives, so it is probably a good idea to check with the manufacturer of any solvent you plan on using as to whether it is safe for the fiberglass on your boat.

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post #7 of 13 Old 08-20-2006
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I suspect that you are referring to a rubberised adhesive, like contact adhesive (i.e. spread on both surfaces, and when they come together after drying until tacky, even if they are misaligned - thats where they are staying!).

I had to remove this from my boat in order to replace the headlining. My local boat fabric shop sells a flap sanding wheel that fits on a drill that is designed for the removal of this adhesive, but the best way I found to do it was using a cup brass wire brush in a small angle driver, preferably not running at the highest speeds that some of these can run at. It is a very messy job, but providing you dont try to do too much at a time, the brass wire flicks the solid adhesive off the grp and it can then be hoovered up. If you try to do too much at once, it will melt the adhesive and make it difficult to remove, use too much force and it will start to wear a hole in the grp.

You must wear eye protection, full body coverage, and a really good mask
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post #8 of 13 Old 08-21-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TalbotUK
I suspect that you are referring to a rubberised adhesive, like contact adhesive (i.e. spread on both surfaces, and when they come together after drying until tacky, even if they are misaligned - thats where they are staying!).

I had to remove this from my boat in order to replace the headlining. My local boat fabric shop sells a flap sanding wheel that fits on a drill that is designed for the removal of this adhesive, but the best way I found to do it was using a cup brass wire brush in a small angle driver, preferably not running at the highest speeds that some of these can run at. It is a very messy job, but providing you dont try to do too much at a time, the brass wire flicks the solid adhesive off the grp and it can then be hoovered up. If you try to do too much at once, it will melt the adhesive and make it difficult to remove, use too much force and it will start to wear a hole in the grp.

You must wear eye protection, full body coverage, and a really good mask
Good to know as I have to do the same job on my Beneteau. I was thinking about painting the interior with either Bilgecoat or Zolatone instead of installing more of the vinyl/foam headliner material.
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post #9 of 13 Old 08-30-2006 Thread Starter
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Painting raw fiberglass

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking of using, too. I read about a ceramic additive that will give paint some insulating and soundproofing qualities.
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post #10 of 13 Old 08-30-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jknappsax
Yeah, that's what I'm thinking of using, too. I read about a ceramic additive that will give paint some insulating and soundproofing qualities.
That sounds like the coating that was on my brother's Santana 20. It was thick, almost like a skin coat of plaster. It was flaking off when he bought it and was a mess to remove. I don't remember if he found anything like it to replace the old stuff.
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