How to remove seacock without resorting to C-4 - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 12 Old 08-22-2015 Thread Starter
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How to remove seacock without resorting to C-4

We have five unused thruhulls, and the seacocks have come out of four of them with no problem. The fifth one is hanging tough. The other four didn't have backing plates, but this one does. It appears not to have been originally installed when the boat was made (1977 B29.9). It went to the manual overboard pumpout.

Mr. cthoops has already used the Dremel to get rid of the mushroom head on the thru hull. He thought it might be bolted through the hull from the inside, but after sanding down to the gelcoat he can't find any sign of a bolt. He's tried whacking on it with a hammer and it's not budging. Maybe it was installed with 5200?

We've thought about trying wire with dowels on either end to saw along the bottom of the seacock, and will give that a try tomorrow unless there are other, better options. Besides the C-4 of course.

Any suggestions?
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post #2 of 12 Old 08-22-2015
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Re: How to remove seacock without resorting to C-4

if it comes down to it. if its a bronze connector you can heat it up very quickly then cool it and put pressure. the trick is to separate the thru hull from the adhesive material but cooling the fitting down before it has a chance to damage the gelcoat/fibreglass . it could take 3 to 100 tries, if you get it on the first try the fitting was probably too hot. this is the last resort though and it will definately work. hopefully others have suggestions that will work before you have to resort to this
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post #3 of 12 Old 08-22-2015
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Re: How to remove seacock without resorting to C-4

Have you tried a Thru Hull Wrench? Sometimes torquing them can help break them free. If it is a smooth bore you can try a large cammed pipe extractor for a plumbing supply place to get a grip on the inside of the fitting.

Otherwise, heat, banging, worst case you can cut it out with a hole saw.

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post #4 of 12 Old 08-23-2015
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Re: How to remove seacock without resorting to C-4

Det cord - easier to control. Wrap around thru hull - zap, its gone!
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post #5 of 12 Old 08-23-2015
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Re: How to remove seacock without resorting to C-4

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Originally Posted by svzephyr44 View Post
Det cord - easier to control. Wrap around thru hull - zap, its gone!
You could always try some Fe2O3(Iron Oxide; i.e. rust) + 2 Al(aluminum) → 2 Fe(iron) + Al2O3(aluminum oxide) + a whole lot of heat, if your into chemistry, also know as thermite. This will produce enough heat to remove the seacock and anything else around it.... JK


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post #6 of 12 Old 08-23-2015
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Re: How to remove seacock without resorting to C-4

Drive in a wood plug, for centering hole then use a hole saw......Dale

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post #7 of 12 Old 08-23-2015
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Re: How to remove seacock without resorting to C-4

i personally like the c4 idea.....
i replaced a thru hull in water when i first got my ericson in 2004.. it was a 1979 installed seeping wonder. it is a wonder that it didnt go away soooner. the nightmare collection of successive bandaid repairs was scary enough.
when i had it done it took a handfull of c4, 4 men and 2 plungers. was the redefinition of worst case scenario.
would i repeat--hell yeah, as it was done professionally and was much less money out than haul and repair.
goood luck.
make sure you have the folks standing by, if you are in water. if out of water..have a great time. it was installed by neptune.


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post #8 of 12 Old 08-23-2015
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Re: How to remove seacock without resorting to C-4

use a sawzall to cut the bronze in several places. Get some un-5200 or use gas to dissolve the 5200.

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Re: How to remove seacock without resorting to C-4

Can you get a sawz-all blade inside the thru hull? If so, cut a few lines, so the fitting is in sections and try to pry the sections out. Sort of like the method to remove a cutlass bearing.


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post #10 of 12 Old 08-23-2015
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Re: How to remove seacock without resorting to C-4

If you are just going to glass in the hole, the suggestion by LS Sailor is probably the way to go. Just drill it out with a hole saw. When glassing over, make sure to feather out plenty far. I've seen these kinds of repairs done very poorly, inviting a 2" hole to open up in the hull if slammed with a wave.

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