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Re: Yanmar 2gmf winterizing?
Drain and fill the 'raw' water circuit (Inlet hose, strainer, engine vane (raw water pump), heat exchanger ('raw' side), exhaust manifold (if not connected to the 'fresh' water side), water lift muffler ... with a mixture of antifreeze to assure no freezing to -20 or -30°F.
If you use 'non-toxic' Propylene Glycol add some 'anti-rust' compound to the mixture.
If you use Ethylene Glycol, be sure to recover/save when recommissioning - to either send it out for 'reclaiming' or simply store it for 'next time'.
The way to do this: Blow out all raw water with air pressure (as best as possible), disconnect the inlet hose to the raw water pump, use a separate hose into a large bucket containing the mixture, start the engine and suck the mixture through until the color at the outlet equals to the color of the mixture in the bucket; then, drain the inlet strainer and 'backfill' the inlet line with antifreeze so that it fills the inlet strainer just downstream of the inlet seacock. Close the raw water inlet valve/seacock.
THEN, spray an anti-rust compound (Boeshield T-9, etc.) on all the shiny parts of the engine mounted V-belt sheaves and pulleys on the front of the engine and alternator. Seal the engine air intake with a LARGE plastic 'baggy'.
Last edited by RichH; 09-05-2015 at 12:21 PM.