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Does your Cheoy Lee have teak decks? That would add a whole new dimension, of course...it sounds like if your considering going in from above that you do not. Anyway your $15k quote sounds like a re-coring of most or all of the deck. You mention it was obvious that most of the deck was rotted or delam'd - had you determined that with a moisture meter, by feel or the sound the deck makes when you walk on it? Reason I ask is that you may want to consider the less invasive, less technically demanding option of drilling 1/4" holes from above in the wet or delam'd areas, maybe 1" apart, drying the core out and then refilling with epoxy.
I did this in a Columbia 32 over about 20-30 of my deck - in those areas where I could actually feel the softness of the core (confirmed by the mush that the drill bit sucked out. I drilled a pattern of holes about 1" apart radiating out to the points where the drill pulled up dry core, being carefull not to pierce bottom skin. I also drilled where you could hear the crunching sound of delamination. In those areas the core was dry (that's why I heard crunching) and it just needed "gluing".
I'd do about 2-3 feet of deck at a time and kept a heat lamp or other heat source going for a few days down below to get it to dry thoroughly. There were some areas that were so wet I actually pulled out water and disintegrated core material by rotating an ice pick in the hole and using a large wet-vac to suck out whatever I could from the hole and adjacent holes. After a few days of drying, I'd very slowly inject straight, unthickened West epoxy into all the holes until they filled.
I chose this route because I though it was easier to refinish the deck after filling and faring the holes than it would have been if I had to remove and replace the upper skin, even given the challenges a textured non-skid poses. I could also tackle smaller more manageable pieces of the job at a time. Even punky core gets rock solid if it's dried and then filled with unthickened epoxy.
Clearly this process should not be used for an entire deck, but it's likely that you'll find only a portion is so wet that it needs repair. As I said, I kept drilling outward until I found reasonably dry core and then I stopped. I only used about 3 quarts of epoxy for the entire job. I thought this technique gave me a good structural repair with a reasonable investment of time and even more reasonable with respect to money.
Aside from the cost of the epoxy, the biggest expense was drill bits. I think fiberglass is tougher on bits than metal!
I don't think I'd even try a repair from below (can you imagine getting a facefull of epoxy?), or a repair that involved removing teak decking, unless the decking needed replacing.
Get copy of Don Casey's "This Old Boat", if you don't already have one. I think it's mandatory reading for do-it-yourselfers! He outlines this technique in great detail.
Good Luck!!! JPZ