Firstly: Don't lose heart. It's a process. Daunting at first, but not impossible with a little patience, reading, guidance and common-sense.
The first step to take while you take stock is to contact Volvo and ask for the workshop manual
(not the "operator's manual") for the engine. If you get stuck, I have a copy of a copy that I can mail you if needs be - in fact it may be even more use scanned, but I'd rather not "fracture" Volvo's copyright if I don't need to. On the Volvo Penta website http://www.volvo.com/VolvoPenta/Global/en-gb
you'll find the operator's manual for all of their engines, plus the workshop manuals for some (albeit not this one).
Secondly, Please, PLEASE
put a bit of cling film (saran wrap to you) over the injector pump feed pipes and secure with a rubber band... if you get dirt in there, you won't find out until the engine's rebuilt and reinstalled, and you'll then regret it for a looooooong time (!) - diesel fuel injectors absolutely detest
Third; You need to take lots more pictures from lots of angles. Save and label them. Your engine looks like it's in much better condition than mine was, but having got it out and halfway dismantled, you'd be very unwise IMHO not to strip it right the way down and clean the grease and grime off every last inch of it before repainting (I always use hammerite - it's the best) and reassembling.
Fourth: having dismantled everything else, you need to check the camshaft and crankshaft end-float, before removing both and eyeballing the camshaft bearings for ugly signs of wear (discoloured or copper-looking patches especially). If the camshaft bearings need replacing, you'll need to get a reputable machine shop to do it as the shells have to be drifted or pulled into place, then reamed out to size.
Fifth: Please do take the crank shaft to a good machine shop to be measured and re-fitted as necessary - as outlined in my other post. Not to do so at this point would really be asking for the big ends or mains to develop a knock shortly after refitting - meaning you'd have to pull the whole thing out and start again - Gaaah!
The good news is: if the shop comes back and tell you that the journals are fine and within spec. you can dispense with the re-grinding, and if you handled the bearing shells sympathetically, you might even get away without replacing the shells either.
Do be careful to mark the big-end bearing caps and the con-rods before you take them off the crankshaft. I use a centre-punch and tap one dot on the side of each piece for cylinder No.1 (nearest the flywheel) and 2 on each for No.2 cylinder (work through the inspection hatches to accomplish this easily). This not only tells you which bearing cap and con-rod belongs together, but also which big-end journal they belong on and which way round they go on that journal. This is especially important if you're not replacing the bearing shells as each set will have worn to its own journal, and must go back on the same journal that it came off.
More later.... do get that manual!