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  #21  
Old 05-02-2007
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"what is the best "removing agent" to get rid of the old seals?"
Usually elbow grease applied liberally with wire wheels and cabinet scrapers. There is a "5200 remover" solvent that can help but other most conventional solvents that are strong enough to get rid of sealant can also damage fiberglass, be warned.

Lexan is about 10x more expensive than acrylic, I can't see wasting it on temporary repairs. And, considering the damage that water leaks can cause, and the amount of time and labor necessary to install temporary deadlights and then UNinstall them again for the real repairs...I can't see any way that you come out ahead by not doing the real repairs the first time around. I know, we all have limited budgets, but sometimes it just pays to do it right the first time around. Faster and cheaper.
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  #22  
Old 05-02-2007
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---Hello Sailor--

The reason I'm not doing the real repair is because when i pulled the leaky deadlights, the frames and glass fell to pcs. I shopped on line and looks like to replace them, I'm looking at 125.00 to 150.00 each!! 500. dollars for 4 deadlights is crazy!!

I now have 4 holes in my otherwise beautiful boat, I plan on cutting the Lexan larger than the holes and fastening them as water tight as possible. The Lexan, even the nice smoked kind...looks like about 50.00 to 75.00 for a sheet large enough to cut out the shapes i need.

I just can't sink 500 bucks into deadlights....or maybe I'm not looking on the right websites for pricing.
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  #23  
Old 05-02-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STARWINDY
---Hello Sailor--

The reason I'm not doing the real repair is because when i pulled the leaky deadlights, the frames and glass fell to pcs. I shopped on line and looks like to replace them, I'm looking at 125.00 to 150.00 each!! 500. dollars for 4 deadlights is crazy!!

I now have 4 holes in my otherwise beautiful boat, I plan on cutting the Lexan larger than the holes and fastening them as water tight as possible. The Lexan, even the nice smoked kind...looks like about 50.00 to 75.00 for a sheet large enough to cut out the shapes i need.

I just can't sink 500 bucks into deadlights....or maybe I'm not looking on the right websites for pricing.

How are you planning on "framing" your Lexan ?

There was a sale on opening ports about a month ago, but they are now sold out.
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  #24  
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I haven't read the whole thread so you may have already checked the thread on the Cruiser's Forum, "How to have Sexy Windows".
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  #25  
Old 05-02-2007
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Starwindy-
I have no idea what kind of boat you have or what kind of deadlights. It certainly isn't impossible to do, but I'm thinking anything that seals well (and ignoring the costs of sealants and fittings too) isn't going to be simple or easy, or will involve more holes to drill and seal and fill. Lots of work and time and materials and sealant to dig out/off when you finally do replace them, versus shopping around for some kind of replacements and just biting the bullet. Between a half sheet of 1/8" Lexan and everything else, you'll be sinking probably $125 in this job, that's already a quarter of the cost of just "doing it right". (I know, sometimes we all have to just make do.)
How big are the deadlights? Are they a standard shape?
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  #26  
Old 05-03-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STARWINDY
---Hello Sailor--

The reason I'm not doing the real repair is because when i pulled the leaky deadlights, the frames and glass fell to pcs. I shopped on line and looks like to replace them, I'm looking at 125.00 to 150.00 each!! 500. dollars for 4 deadlights is crazy!!

I now have 4 holes in my otherwise beautiful boat, I plan on cutting the Lexan larger than the holes and fastening them as water tight as possible. The Lexan, even the nice smoked kind...looks like about 50.00 to 75.00 for a sheet large enough to cut out the shapes i need.

I just can't sink 500 bucks into deadlights....or maybe I'm not looking on the right websites for pricing.
What thickness of Lexan are you getting for the ports at that price. I can't see you getting anything that I would consider seaworthy at that price, unless the ports are a lot smaller than I am thinking they are. I got a 2' x4' piece of 3/8" Lexan and it was well over $100.
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  #27  
Old 05-03-2007
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Lexan thickness and frames.

The boat in question is a Starwind 22.

I can't seem to be able to upload a pic at the moment. If you ggole, you will quickly find one. As far as the thickness for the Lexan, I'm looking at 3/8 and the dimensions are roughly 20 1/4 by 3 3/4 inches. Two are rectangular and the other two have a slight angle sloping forward on a 45.

As far as framing them, I have no idea. I'm just going to cut the new Lexan to the same dimensions as the original + frames. The frames busted into pcs. I plan on Drilling holes into the Lexan that match up with the holes that were through the frames, establish a decent seal and put back the ss hardware. I may have to caulk around the edges of the outside of the lexan.

SailingDog.... what did you use to cut the Lexan.... i'm thinking of tile/wet saw.
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  #28  
Old 05-03-2007
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I followed steps from the Catalina 30 site. Not sure if your windows are of the same design. Regardless, you might find some useful information here. Leaking Windows
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  #29  
Old 05-03-2007
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Starwindy-

A sabre saw works just fine...as does a skilsaw...

I don't think you need frames... the deadports on a lot of new boats are essentially just sheets of lexan cut to size and then bolted over the holes in the cabin top. Drill the holes a bit oversized as the lexan expands and contracts a bit compared to the underlying boat... and if you drill the holes exactly the size you need, you can cause problems for yourself later on.
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Telstar 28
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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  #30  
Old 05-03-2007
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Thanks...great article.
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