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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #31  
Old 05-03-2007
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For too much information about Lexan glazing see

http://www.championindustrialplastic...f/polycarb.pdf

Somewhere abround p.18 it gets into how much allowance you need to provide for expansion/contraction, and installation illustrations. If you are just going to throughbolt it, the preferred kludge is to allow about 1/16" of space around each screw/bolt (i.e. a 1/8" wide bolt in a 1/4" wide hole) with washer, so that the plastic can expand/contract without pushing against the bolt, which would either craze the plastic or loosen the bolt.

There's also apparently a "VHB tape" from 3M which is a double-sided structural tape designed for "sticking" glazing right to a smooth surface and sealing it in one shot--not cheap and not available at your local WalMart.
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  #32  
Old 05-03-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog
Starwindy-

A sabre saw works just fine...as does a skilsaw...

I don't think you need frames... the deadports on a lot of new boats are essentially just sheets of lexan cut to size and then bolted over the holes in the cabin top. Drill the holes a bit oversized as the lexan expands and contracts a bit compared to the underlying boat... and if you drill the holes exactly the size you need, you can cause problems for yourself later on.

Thanks SAilingDOg. As usual, you leave me with a breath of confidence!!
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  #33  
Old 05-03-2007
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Originally Posted by STARWINDY
Thanks SAilingDOg. As usual, you leave me with a breath of confidence!!
Obviously the fumes from the sealants are getting to him... You're welcome...
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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  #34  
Old 05-03-2007
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May have missed pieces of the discussion, but acrylic (plexiglas) is much cheaper, does not scratch as easily as lexan, is less likely to shatter upon hard impact (flexes a bit) and is easier to work with if fine tune shaping is needed.
Also as Sailingdog says, definitely slightly oversize the fastener holes to allow temp related movement and avoid stress cracking.
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  #35  
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DVpamenter-

Acrylic is also far weaker than Polycarbonate, in both impact resistance and in terms of tensile strength. There is a reason that Lexan, not Plexiglass is used in riot shields.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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  #36  
Old 05-09-2007
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Port Sealants

I have used 3m Strip Calk that I got at the local automotive store when replacing my old ports with new New FOund Metal Ports. They have been on for about 3 year now, and whenever I find any indication of any leaking I just tighten the screws holding the port in and a little more oozes out and the leak is fixed. You simply cut off the excess with a knife and clean it up with acetone. The stuff never gets completely hard and stays flexible so it will movwe with the boat as it sails. It is like having your own rubber custom gasket on the ports.
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  #37  
Old 05-09-2007
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Butyl Tape

I used butyl tape that I bought at Home Depot. It is called glazing tape, it comes on a 3/8" x 50' rolefor less than $10, and is used for installing windows in metal frames. I applied it to the windows on my Ranger 29. I did that about 5 years ago and have had no leaks. I used it on the recommendation of a fellow with a Catalina 25 who said his windows had been installed using butyl tape at the factory 25 years before and had never leaked. He had removed the windows to clean the frames, not to fix leaks. He said the butyl tape was still pliable and sticky, and while it is not an adhesive - the window need to be held in place with fasteners - it seemed to last indefinitely.

I had tried a polyurethane sealant before and it last only a couple of years.
One of the benefits of butyl tape is that it stays pliable and sticky, which is also a drawback. if you use a full-width strip, about 3/8", it is really too much sealant, and will continue to squish out around the frame. it is easy enough to clean off, but just one more thing to do occasionally.
The best way to avoid using too much is to roll it like modeling clay to a rope of about 3/16", then stick the rope in place on the mating surface of the window frame. Tighten the screws a bit all around the frame, going a half a turn of each screw until it is flush with the cabin surface.
Good stuff, and cheap!
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  #38  
Old 05-09-2007
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IIRC The old C&C hull to deck joints were "caulked" with black butyl tape for the same reason. As long as no one went gorilla and squeezed it all out, they would stay pliable and seal well for years and years, just a little tightening needed if they didn't quite.

And Home Depot's been HIDING IT FROM ME?
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  #39  
Old 05-11-2007
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sika flex is definately the best - different grades per Oz above but great stuff.
Having been in the marine industry as a mechanic, this is the one to rely on.
Silicone had a short life span.
Cheers,
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  #40  
Old 07-11-2014
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Re: Window gasket sealant..

Select Plastics in Norwalk CT has the best product for rebedding plastic ports call them (203-866-5284), they might try to sell you new plastic but just order the adhesive. Do not ever use anything else it will always end up leaking.

Last edited by windhamagic; 07-11-2014 at 03:28 PM. Reason: added tel#
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