Chainplates Newport 30
Is it possible to reseal the chainplates of a Newport 30 with the mast up? Removing one stay at a time leave the rig stable?
If so, any suggestion for how to examine for damage in the core or bulkhead? There are small white discolorations on the teak where the chainplates bolt through the bulkhead. Also, suggestions for type and brand of caulks
Coming out of the water soon
Are there water stains? You can check the bulkhead where it bolts to..it is right out in the open...When I had my '84 30' mkIII I used Life caulk 4200..when I saw any water coming in I would dig out the old caulking & redo...But if you want to take it off...use one of your halyards & clip to the side your working on..that takes care of the upper..for the lower, throw a line over the opposite spreader & tie off both ends to the side your working on....use the rubrail or jib fairlead...
Thanks for thadvice about using the halyard to stabilize the rig
Yes, there is white streaks on the teak below the chainplate bolts, especially on the prot side.
Would also like advice on how to get to the nuts on port. They are hidden behind a panel in the head. The panel also contains a shorepower outlet. How much needs to be removed?
Welcome to leaking chainplates.
It never ends.
I just loosen them in turn, and re-caulk.... a messy, sticky process.
Loosen the bolts but do not take the nuts off. Prise the chainplate and the backing plate off the sealant. Take one nut off, and drift one bolt out. Tie a stout piece of string through the hole in the chainplate or backing plate (whichever one is outboard). The string will prevent the plate from dropping into the deeps if you drop it.
I've done the following procedure on my boat for any for any through deck fittings (including the chainplates) that have been leaking.
1.If the core is wet, scrape out as much of the wet balsa as possible.
2.Dry out the core. You can use a heat gun on a low setting but be careful because it's possible to burn fiberglass.
3.Put a piece of tape on the underside so the epoxy can't run out of the hole.
4.Mix together the West System epoxy with the hardener for 2 minutes. Add enough 404 filler to make the epoxy thick - somewhere between the consistency of ketchup or peanut butter depending on whether you plan to use a syringe to pump the epoxy mix into the hole.
4. Inject it into the hole. If the hole is deep, don't try to fill it all at once. Sometimes you can get a big bubble in the curing epoxy which is undesirable. Try several layers over a period of time.
5. When the epoxy is cured you can drill or cut a new hole for the fasteners, etc. Use donuts of Sikaflex or 3M 4200 around the holes to bed hardware or chainplates.
This will seal of the balsa core from future leakage but I think it reads oddly on the moisture meter.
Ive been looking for leeks on mine for a while. Its a 78 Newport 30. I have sealed the stanchions and the chainplates. It is still leaking. I guess next I will try to seal some of the topside hardware. Maybe the handrails or something?
Does any one have any similar run ins with the same boat?
I'm pretty sure that's the same hull as a C&C 30. If that's the case, isn't that a keel stepped mast and goes through the deck? It shouldn't go anywhere with one of the shrouds off.
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