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Drill hole in mast for wiring?? H34

7K views 21 replies 9 participants last post by  Effit 
#1 ·
My wife and I are trying to wrap up the last few "go" projects before we set off from New Orleans to Pensacola. As of this minute the anchor light and steaming light are not functioning. I used to work as an electrician and have done all the normal troubleshooting and the result is there is no continuity in the wires from the panel to the fixtures.

From my understanding there are connectors inside the mast at the base (which likely got overlooked or disconnected/crushed the last time the mast was stepped). There is no access for these connectors from the inside, and no access from the mast itself without raising the mast about 6".

Rigrite makes a SS cover plate intended for covering an access hole in a mast. This seems to be the only way to access the connectors with the mast stepped. I wanted to check with you all first to make sure I'm not missing anything. Also, if anyone has done this, what is the ideal location for the access hole?

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
My wife and I are trying to wrap up the last few "go" projects before we set off from New Orleans to Pensacola. As of this minute the anchor light and steaming light are not functioning. I used to work as an electrician and have done all the normal troubleshooting and the result is there is no continuity in the wires from the panel to the fixtures.

From my understanding there are connectors inside the mast at the base (which likely got overlooked or disconnected/crushed the last time the mast was stepped). There is no access for these connectors from the inside, and no access from the mast itself without raising the mast about 6".

Rigrite makes a SS cover plate intended for covering an access hole in a mast. This seems to be the only way to access the connectors with the mast stepped. I wanted to check with you all first to make sure I'm not missing anything. Also, if anyone has done this, what is the ideal location for the access hole?

Thanks!
Are convinced that there are connectors inside the mast?
I think it's more common to place connectors outside the mast.
What size hole would you need?
Mast is deck or keel stepped?
 
#7 ·
I have a keel stepped mast with some smaller holes for cables.
Two close to bottom of the mast, and two just above the deck ring/ collar.
All conncetions outside the mast inside the boat.

There are no existing holes in the mast with some fitting on it?

We have a sheave box in front of the mast just above the deck ring / collar - would rather dismantle to get access then cutting a largish hole in the mast.

All holes (at least the larger ones) should be staggered to avoid making a weak spot in the mast.
If you decide to cut a hole remember to make rounded corners to prevent stress cracks.
 
#4 ·
I am convinced they are inside the mast. The nearest access where I can see those particular wires is by removing a corner reading light and they follow the bulkhead stringer up to the compression post. There is no headliner that can be removed to gain access, I've removed the boom vang plate, as well as the halyard shivs and still no access.

The connectors from my best guess would be 4 pin square automotive style so while they are small I would probably need at least 1.5" hole to get the required access.
 
#8 ·
So it's a deck stepped mast with cable going through the deck and into the mast from the bottom, With connections inside the mast?

1,5" sounds lie a lot of metal to remove..

Randomly cutting holes in the mast sounds risky, remember that there are "stringers" inside the aluminum profile to give the mast strength. The cable might also run inside some sort of conduit.
 
#9 ·
The side is a bit better about strength loss, mostly compressive load on mast at base. So leave some meat below hole to mast butt, there is usually a conduit tube sticking up into the mast against rain puddling anyway. I would recommend an aluminum cover and tefgel on screws. I have done this, always the possibility of snagging /nicking wires. May not be enough service loop. Try putting two fingers through test hole in scrap first, hard to make hole bigger (neatly). Make a template of mast curve with soft wire (I use alum filler rod) transfer to paper/cardboard. Fab shop can roll 1/8 alum cover inexpensively fwiw. Cheers!
 
#12 ·
I've seen mast with inspection/access ports installed near the base and farther up, near the boom. These ports were reinforced with a welded ring around the opening, which was approximately 3/8-inch thick. Nearly all were oblong, but at least one was circular. The cover plates were bolted in place and similar to wiring access plates that can be seem on any aluminum lamp post in most cities. In some instances, the lamp post plates were half the diameter of the post itself, and keep in mind that these posts do NOT have stays and shrouds to support them. They are free standing, most are no thicker than any mast I've seen, yet they withstand incredible wind force without breaking off at the base. I doubt that a small access port, properly installed with a reinforcement ring welded in place, would pose any threat to the structural integrity of a mast. However, you may want to check with the manufacturer prior to making any modifications.

Where do the old wires exit the mast? Do they exit the base and pass into the cabin through an opening in the compression post? The thought that came to mind is that if you have access to each end of the wires, why not use the old wires as pull wires and fish new ones down the mast.

Good luck,

Gary :cool:
 
#14 ·
Yes, most of the force is downward, hence the reinforcement rings that are heliarc welded on the masts that have the inspection ports and the street light posts that have them as well. I suspect if the opening were a significant size and not reinforced there could be problems, but in reality, this has not been documented on any site that I know of.

All the best,

Gary :cool:
 
#15 ·
I have a 87 H31 with a hole cut in the front of the mast 1.5 x 2.5 inches. It is about 2 inches from bottom, and I can access wire connection from there. I have not noticed any problem with the hole other than covering up to keep deck water out. As a matter of fact last year I was able to install a Wind device with all wires snaked up from compression post and joined in the mast from the top with little trouble.
 
#16 ·
I think I'm going to go ahead and make the hole. I spoke with a builder who told me a few rough engineering formulas/rule of thumb for how much "meat" can be cut away without reducing strength. Other thing he mentioned was the absolute necessity for round corners in aluminum to avoid stress cracks.

Another advantage I see is making the mast wiring field serviceable as I HOPE we don't always have access to a crane to lift the mast!

Does anyone know or have a picture of how /where exactly the wiring exits the deck into the mast? I'm trying to get a better idea of the ideal location for this hole. It would really be lousy to drill and not be able to reach those connectors!!
 
#18 · (Edited)
Inside my mast is leaking water through the wiring access. Com-Pac 27 wires are sealed with silicone in the hole to prevent water leakage down the support post. It has just started leaking and I either have to pull the mast or make an access hole. Have you thought about how you would make hole? My thoughts were drill four corner holes and use abrasive saw blade to control depth of cut? I would like to hear other's ideas. Let us know how you proceed?

Effit: Thanks for the rigrite link
 
#21 ·
Having previously worked in the electrical field, my feeling is to use a step bit like I'd use to make a connector hole in an electrical panel.

The step bit can make very clean holes and I will simply drill until the hole is 1-1/4" then make another hole same size directly below that, mark parallel lines vertically to connect the edges of the holes and use an angle grinder to finish the cuts along those lines which won't be much.

I'd measure the mast and the rule of thumb is no wider than 15% of the width of that face. Another great suggestion is to make the same hole in a piece of metal or cardboard first to be sure it will be adequate before cutting into your mast. Remove any burrs from the newly made hole with a file/sand paper. There is also a rule of thumb with height for the oblong/elliptical hole (you must have round corners BTW), not much more than 2:1 ratio for height, so I plan 1-1/4" by 2.5" hole with only two straight edges. The "corners" are formed with the drill bit alone.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Honestly, I wouldn't cut this hole in the mast. Wherever you cut you can damage stuff behind, and it might turn out that you still can't access your cables coz they could be living on the opposite side in a proper cable-channel.

The other thing is that you weaken your mast with every hole, even with rounded corners and this is something you certainly don't want at a place where the forces meet. Also, what would it help to be able to see it, maybe be able to pull it towards you with some wire or whatever, to find out the cables are not long enough to pull them and the connector out but at the same time not being able to get hand or tools in because the hole is too small?

You're still somewhere - if I get that right - where you can lift your mast. Alright, you've got to get your bottlescrews back in working order but, once this is done it's just a few minutes in the crane to sort your stuff out. And usually, unless you want to unstep your mast and later put it back up again, they won't charge you a fortune.

If I see this correctly, you haven't got any mousing-lines in the mast. To make sure you're not left with finding out it's a rotten cable inside the mast and not the connection itself I would make up a complete new cable, with a weight on the end and feed it from the top down the mast. If it's really only the connector, you will be able to pull this cable out any time later. If it's also a rotten cable you just grab it once the mast is up, connect it, step the mast back in place and connect it upstairs once you're done with the crane.

Fair winds & good luck
Dody

PS: it might look nice with all the cables hidden somewhere, for maintenance this is a complete nightmare! Next time, when you unstep your mast do the proper thing, have cables that come out of the mast and have a connection somewhere where you can always get to! And: have a mousing-line inside the mast!!!!
 
#22 ·
For those of you interested in the final result, I chickened out at least for the time being with cutting into the mast. I ended up running a wire up the side of the mast and built a switch box which is also attached to the mast that controls anchor light, steaming light, and spreader lights. It works like a champ, makes us "legal" and gives me time to tackle other projects. The next time I come across a gin pole for rent I will lift the mast and make a few upgrades and modifications (namely LED fixtures and an access for the connections maybe near the bulkhead below).
 
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