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Attaching anchor rode to boat

7K views 8 replies 8 participants last post by  Gladrags1 
#1 ·
Hey guys, I'm sure the techniques are varied and there will be more than one right answer here. Then again, everything works until it doesn't right?

So here it is: I currently have 30' chain followed by 220' rope with a bow roller and no windlass. I'm considering switching to all chain or at least significantly increasing the length.

For the moment I have been cleating the rope rode to one of the forward cleats, and if windy, cleating also to the second forward cleat. I don't leave the rode in the bow roller. Is this normal technique? Will it put too much strain on the roller in high winds and cause damage? The other thought is that if I leave the rode in the bow roller there is more chance of chafe both where it enters the roller and would exit to a cleat.

The second part of the question is, where/how do you cleat off/secure all chain rode? Keep in mind, no windlass. Do you make a rope bridle to act both as a snubber and way to attach to cleats? If so, how does that attach to the variable length chain? Shackle, pelican hook, etc?

So far I've had completely incident free anchoring, but I'd like to keep it that way and see what other folks are doing.

Thanks!
 
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#3 ·
Steve Daschew (Author, Sailor and yacht designer) proposes using a strongly reinforced tie point very close to the waterline as it reduces the angle on the anchor line thus reducing the length of warp/chain needed. I can't personally say I have tried it but it does make sense.

With your current set up I would propose a bridle between the cleats and the anchor line tide in the middle of that. If you made the bridle out of two separate pieces which both are independently tied to the anchor line from each of the cleats, it would not only share the load between the cleats but if one cleat broke off the boat would still be attached to the anchor. Again I can't say I have personally tried this but I have towed and been towed off a bridle and anchored where the snubber is off a different side to the anchor attachment. Hope this helps.
 
#5 ·
Use an eye bolt in the chain locker with a short length of rope to secure the bitter end of the chain to the boat. Would be embarrassing to let the chain out and over the bow. If for some reason had to abandon the rode, a simple matter to cut the line. For long term anchoring, use a 1/2" snubber line tied to the chain with with a rolling hitch, secured to a bow cleat and run through a chock. An all chain rode could be just left on the anchor roller as it's pretty stout with a chain stopper on deck to take the load. Last boat, used the bobstay fitting to attach the snubber line to. Kept the load on the anchor as low as possible, kept the rode from hitting the bobstay, and cured an out of sync jerking on the bowsprit roller that was disconcerting. Left the snubber in place when sailing unless it was a voyage of more than a couple of days then took it off. Worked fine for 24/7 anchoring for more than a year. Using the rolling hitch saved me from needing expensive chain hook to fall off and wear the galvanizing off the chain. Never been a problem to get the hitch undone.
 
#6 ·
There are several things to be addressed here.
First, if you do get a windlass, it is NOT recommended that it be used to secure the chain at anchor. A Chain Stopper is the proper item for the job of securing chain to a boat on deck.
The chain must be secured in the chain locker as mentioned above, however the line securing it to the eye bolt that should be present in the chain locker, should be long enough to reach the anchor roller plus some. This is so you can buoy the end of your chain and cut this line on deck easily (not rushing below to release a shackle or cut the rope), should you need to get out of an anchorage in a hurry.
This line needs to be strong enough to take the shock if your chain runs away and this rope is the stop.
A snub line is almost a necessity if anchoring with all chain to put a bit of shock absorption in the system. It also dampens the noise the chain will make as you swing during the night, a real pain especially if you sleep forward.
I prefer to have my snub come through a chock to a cleat (with adequate chafe gear), rather than over the roller, but I imagine that's a personal choice. I don't like a bridle snub (2 snubs), but I've seen a few boats, especially those with bobstays, use them, otherwise I seems like double the expense for no good reason to me.
 
#9 ·
Capta has it right; I would fit a chain stopper in a direct line back from the anchor roller. Make sure the stopper is through bolted through the deck and has strong backing plates. A snubber line should be used to take the shock of waves in a rough sea so your anchor won't get dislodged. The snubber can be led back through a chock to the bow cleat which should lower the angle for a better set. I would NOT attach anything to a eye bolt fitted in the bow by the waterline as it would be impossible to release from deck in the event you have to leave quickly. That only makes sense if you are attaching to a mooring ball for a longer stay. Depending upon your boat, I would not make a bridle in the event of a bowsprit with a bobstay. I think that you would get too much chafe as well as too much side pressure on the stay in that set up.

We have an all chain rode and that system works best for us.

Tod
 
#7 ·
Depends on where you're cruising. In coral free latitudes, I have got by just fine for most of 40 years with only 15 feet if chain and two 30 lb kellets, the rest nylon rope.
I believe all cleats , mooring bits, chocks, bow rollers, etc should be stronger than the strongest line which will ever be used on them . My mooring bits are good for 90 tons sheer strength.
The greater the distance from a cleat to a chock, the greater the chafe . The line between the cleat and the chock stretches slightly , which lets it saw on the chock. The less distance, the less the line stretches, and thus the less movement on the chock. Some put the cleat right on the rail, eliminating this movement and eliminating the chock. A bow eye does the same. You can tie a line thru the bow eye and use it to tie to the pick up line on the mooring buoy .
My anchor winch cost me under $50 in materials ,and holds 550 feet of half inch nylon braid,.
 
#8 ·
As stated above, you are gonna get a hundred opinions and it all sort of depends on your foredeck and ground tackle.

That being said, here is our solution. We run 75' chain backed up with a 150' of nylon rode. (Trim will not allow an "all chain" rode) No windlass. In a shallow(ish) anchorage with average sea state we are usually running 50' or so of chain.

Chain is run through a bow roller, and stopped with a "devils claw" secured with a short nylon line to the sampson post. After making sure we have a good solid set, a snubber (another devils claw secured to 20' of nylon) is secured to the chain rode below the bow roller. The snubber is run through a bow chock (with chafing gear) and secured to the sampson post. The stopper is released and enough chain is fed out to make a 6-10 foot slack loop and re-stopped.

The slack loop takes the strain off the bow roller, but the roller still prevents the chain from scuffing up the top side, as well as not talking to you all night. If the snubber should fail, the chain will still keep you in place, and you will hear it if it happens.


Lots of ways to do it, but that is one that has always worked well for us. Reminder to secure the bitter end in the chain locker is well taken.
 
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