Suggestions for Repair of C&C 33 windows

[Tom M]

Hello,

I am requesting information on the fix of C&C 33 windows, that are just beginning to leak. These windows are glued into a recessed portion of the cabin walls from the outside. If anyone has had experience would appreciate your comments.

Thanks Tom

[mikehoyt]

Tom,

My father had 1981 C&C 36 from 81 - 1990. He had same problems from day one. Eventually he took it to a boatyard where they removed and rebedded the windows. Problem went away.

Other than the hassle of removing the old ones I don''t see why you couldn''t do the same yourself. Even replacing the glass is cheap. I recently had a quote of $15 Canadian (about 15 cents US) per pane for lexan 35 x 6 panes for my Niagara 26.

My father had tried the usual route of caulking, etc ... with limited success prior to this.

Good Luck!

Mike Hoyt
Halifax NS

PS. To Jeff H and others. What a great BBS!

[rhall3]

What I have done on two previous C&C''s, and I have seen it done on a number of others (that''s where I got the idea). Carefully remove the windows. Rebed and replace. Then drill holes around the perimiter of the window, say every three inches. Mechanically fasten with stainless screws, round heads. Looks good. The problem with not using mechanical fastening is that the windows move as the hull flexes. That is what causes the windows to become loose originally.

[jeffyham]

I replaced all 4 windows on my C&C 40 myself. I had deep tinted lexan cut and routed. I used old windows as templates. I drilled holes and counter sunk at appx 4" centers appz 1/2 inch from edges of windows. I then used 5200 to rebed the windows and nice looking SS screws (about 1.25 in long I think) to hold them all in. Cleaned up inside and that was 3 years ago - no leaks at all. Life is good.

[Valiente]

I just did my Viking 33 (C&C by Ontario Yachts using the same "grey gasketing" used by C&C and CS). We cut new 1/4" Plexiglass and simply bedded with clear exterior silicone caulking and pushed in the gasketing...the secret to this is to pull up with your fingers into the frames until you feel it gripping the plexi. Put the gasketing in hot water first...it makes it very pliable...and then wipe it dry.

Prior to this, of course, you have to be fastidious about getting all dead gasketing/butyl tape/goo out of the frames, and you also have to mask off the plexi, save for the 1/2" that's going to be inside the frame. You should also mask off the window hole to keep silicon from dripping.

The gasketing is available from Holland Marine Products in Toronto for $2.95/foot...not cheap, but I think I used 14 or 15 feet, and the plastic was about $20, so $65 and two hours of work for sparkling new portlights. No leaks, even when I powerwash them.

[Freesail99]

This post is 6 years old......

[sailingdog]

Jeff- You just responded to another six year old post.. you really need to check the dates before you reply.

[Valiente]

Originally Posted by Freesail99

This post is 6 years old......

Oh, for feck...well, my advice is five years ahead of its time, then!

[Sailormon6]

Jeff- You just responded to another six year old post.. you really need to check the dates before you reply.

Hey, I'm glad it got resurrected. It just happens that I'm thinking about replacing the windows in my C&C 35, and this thread will be a help. Thanks!

[christyleigh]

Originally Posted by Sailormon6

Hey, I'm glad it got resurrected. It just happens that I'm thinking about replacing the windows in my C&C 35, and this thread will be a help. Thanks!

But...Hopefully you will not follows Jeff's use of 5200 as the bond is too close to welding a piece on. 4200 or a few others would be a better choice.