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Windlass Sizing

8K views 16 replies 7 participants last post by  sailingdog 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello -

I'm looking to replace the manual windlass on my Passport 40. An installer in Annapolis recommended the Lewmar 900GD (http://en.lewmar.com/products/catalog/1-34.pdf). I'm looking to use an all-chain rode with 300'-350' of chain. I'm also expecting to have a 35lb Delta Fastset, a 45lb Bruce or 35lb CQR on the chain. I'm thinking the 900G looks awfully small for the job. Thoughts?

Thanks!

Chris
 
#2 ·
When faced with the task of replacing the old Maxwell Vertical windlass on my boat two seasons ago, I decided to do the installation myself. After some intensive research of most brands and models, I ended up with a Lewmar Sprint 3000W, with a working load of 300 lbs - a bit overkill , but that's not a bad thing with windlasses.

Lewmar has a good website section on choosing the right windlass. If you haven't done so yet, I would recommend you first qualify the installer's recommended unit to your boat specs.

http://en.lewmar.com/products/index.aspx?lang=1&template_id=1&page_id=10&sub1=57
 
#3 ·
Practical sailor magazine has had a few windlass reviews that might be worth looking at before deciding. Also, you should seriously consider getting a windlass that fits what ever type chain you have for your anchor rode. If you don't, you'll probably have to buy all new chain...and that costs a pretty penny.

BTW, IMHO, those anchors sound a bit undersized. I have a 28' trimaran that only displaces 3600 lbs...and I use a 33 lb. next gen anchor as my primary. It probably has significantly more holding power than any of the three you've got on your boat. Might want to go up on the ground tackle a bit.
 
#4 ·
sailingdog said:
BTW, IMHO, those anchors sound a bit undersized. I have a 28' trimaran that only displaces 3600 lbs...and I use a 33 lb. next gen anchor as my primary. It probably has significantly more holding power than any of the three you've got on your boat. Might want to go up on the ground tackle a bit.
They are what came with the boat, but I checked before I bought the boat and they are all spot on for recommended sizes (35lb CQR good for 40-55ft, 35lb Delta good for 40-50ft, 45lb Bruce good for -well, I don't know since I like the Delta). With a few hundred feet of chain I'm thinking I should be OK. I'd love other opinions since I definitely don't want to be lacking on my ground tackle.
 
#5 ·
The only reason I say that is that most manufacturers are recommending for non-storm conditions, and then when you really need the ground tackle to hold, you'll find it isn't big enough to do the job right. The 33 lb. anchor I have is actually a size up from what is recommended for a boat as small as mine. :D But, I'd rather schlep the extra weight around and get a good night's rest than be worried about it all the time.
 
#6 ·
My 9 ton 33 ft boat (36 ft LOA) has all chain and a 35# CQR, which I find to be very adequate. Although we have yet to have the ground tackle drag during the night - winds have never exceeded 30 knots.

I have to agree with SD in this instance. If my boat was a Passport 40, I would probably feel much better at night with a 45# CQR, especially during heavy weather.
 
#7 ·
Chris,

I've got a 42' Perry-designed sloop similar to the Passport 40. I agree with the other posters: the ground tackle is a little light.

I'd swap the 35lb CQR for a 45lb CQR, which is what I've used successfully on my boat for many years. The Bruce is about right for many situations, sets easily, and is versatile. But, it's ultimate holding power is not so great.

Re: the windless, the one you mentioned looks too light for a Passport 40 (and, in fact, the spec sheet says it's for smaller boats). Have you looked at vertical capstan windlesses with a chain/rope gypsy like the Lewmar Concept or Ocean series? I installed a Concept 2 Lewmar some years ago and have been very happy with it.

Bill
 
#9 ·
btrayfors said:
Re: the windless, the one you mentioned looks too light for a Passport 40 (and, in fact, the spec sheet says it's for smaller boats). Have you looked at vertical capstan windlesses with a chain/rope gypsy like the Lewmar Concept or Ocean series? I installed a Concept 2 Lewmar some years ago and have been very happy with it.
If you look at the spec sheet the H900 is specified for boats up to 43' with 900 lbs of maximum pull and 225lbs of working load. 300 feet of standard BBB galvanized chain weighs 510lbs. Then add a 50lb anchor. This tells me that I need a higher working load if I have all the chain out. Is this correct?

Thanks again!
 
#10 ·
Yeah, the H900 says up to 43', but the specs are really very minimal.

They estimate the "normal working load" at 225lbs and the normal draw at 55 amps. This winch, IMHO, is much too small for a Passport 40.

My Concept 2 draws about 80 amps at the same load, about 150 amps with a 880lb load, and up to 250 amps with a (momentary) 1,760lb load. And, I don't think this windlass is too big; rather, it's just about right if used properly.

As you know, proper use of a windless is for lifting the rode and anchor, not for pulling the boat into a strong wind/current and pulling the anchor free of the bottom. You have correctly calculated what the "proper load" could be, counting chain and anchor.

However, in the real world windlasses ARE sometimes used to pull the boat up to the anchor, expecially in emergency situations. This can create loads way beyond the "normal" load. With a minimally-sized windlass, you'll be popping breakers and/or damaging the windlass in such situations.

Again, IMHO, the Passport 40 is a quality boat. It deserves a quality (and hefty) windlass.

By the way, you could save some weight or increase holding power by going with G40 HT chain rather than BBB.

Bill
 
#12 ·
labatt said:
If you look at the spec sheet the H900 is specified for boats up to 43' with 900 lbs of maximum pull and 225lbs of working load. 300 feet of standard BBB galvanized chain weighs 510lbs. Then add a 50lb anchor. This tells me that I need a higher working load if I have all the chain out. Is this correct?

Thanks again!
But you'll never be lifting the whole chain and anchor. Your maximum load will be when pulling the anchor free, which will be with the rode being almost vertical and a lot shorter than 300'. Even at 3:1 scope, the maximum depth you could possibly anchor at wouldbe 100', which means that 200' is already in the locker when you are at maximum load. So you're really looking at 50+170+whatever it takes to break out the hook, (which is peak load, not working load, anyway) so 225# working load should do. Not that bigger isn't better...
 
#14 ·
After learning the hard way with our last boat, I now include an extra step in our anchor weighing routine. While using the UP windlass switch while motoring forward at an equal rate, my bow crew will alert me when the chain is vertical. This signifies that we are directly over the anchor set. The crew will then connect a chain hook to the taunt chain - pulling in until slack, then hitching the snubber's bitter end to a bow cleat - relieving stress from the windlass.

I then motor forward until the anchor is pulled from the bottom, crew disconnects snubber and we then fully retrieve the balance of rode and anchor into the pulpit . . . with minimal strain on the windlass.
 
#15 ·
thegolux said:
Even at 3:1 scope, the maximum depth you could possibly anchor at wouldbe 100', which means that 200' is already in the locker when you are at maximum load.
I use 5 to 1 scope in regular weather and 6 to 1 or more in bad weather, so 300 feet will let me anchor in 60' of water. I sail on Lake Champlain where anchoring in 60' (at least for me, thus far) is not out of the ordinary. It's a glacier formed lake that, in many places, you can have your boat 3 feet off of the shore and be in 50 feet of water.
 
#16 ·
TrueBlue said:
I then motor forward until the anchor is pulled from the bottom, crew disconnects snubber and we then fully retrieve the balance of rode and anchor into the pulpit . . . with minimal strain on the windlass.
That's a nice process I think I'll adopt on our new boat :)
 
#17 ·
Don't forget to use a heavy piece of three-strand nylon or such, that is spliced to the end of an all chain rode, to connect the end of the chain to the boat. Leave the rope long enough so that it can come out through the chain pipe. By doing this, in an emergency, you can cut the rope, rather than trying to undo a shackle with a chain that is under a heavy load. Cutting the rope is a lot safer and faster than trying to undo a shackle pin attached to a loaded anchor rode.
 
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