What Sealant To Use?

1970Columbia34 · #1 (**permalink**) 11-16-2006

I have done a few searchs on the site here and get mixed opnions the more I read. I am in the process right now of doing a new Awlgrip paint job as we speak, Topsides, Deck, Cockpit. When I go to rebed my deck hardware and my fixed and opening ports (both plastic). From what I have gathered I am planning to us 3M 101 on all the deck hardware and use Boat Life on all my plastic ports and windows as well as my companion way wood work. Does this sound like a good plan? I hear the 3M 5200 is to much and makes it hard to go back and reseal hardware you you need to. Also I have seen mention of chamfering the holes that go through the deck to give the sealant a place to pool around the bolt, should I do that before of after paint? Thanks.

Scott

camaraderie · #2 (**permalink**) 11-16-2006

Good plan!
As for Chamfering...do it before painting and coat the inside with epoxy to prevent water ingress...then use sealant around the bolts when you bed the hardware.

robfinora · #3 (**permalink**) 11-16-2006

Buy a roll of Butyl Tape...google it and you will find it. It is a soft-guey tape that provides an excellent seal for bedding deck hardware because it stays soft and pliable should the deck flex. When afixing something to the deck - what I do is use a small amount of silicon in the screw hole and then encapsulate the screw and fitting to the deck with Butyle tape. Works well for me and its quick!

Rob

1970Columbia34 · #4 (**permalink**) 11-16-2006

Thanks for the tips, camaraderie I have already over sized all the holes and refilled with West System, and redrilled. Now we toss in another method Rob, this is a new one I have not seen. so this tape you would just put down at each piece of hardware and then trim off the excess?

Scott

sailingdog · #5 (**permalink**) 11-16-2006

From what I've been told, if you're getting an AwlGrip job done..you'd be best off to remove as much of the deck hardware before they paint the boat as possible AwlGrip sticks best if it is a continous coating...the more edges you have on it, like at the points where deck hardware would be masked off...the more places it can have moisture get underneath it and the more likely it is to have problems at those points in the future. If the Awlgrip is under the sealant, rather than butted up against it...it will do better.

Good job on the prepping with the West... very important to keep water out of the core.

1970Columbia34 · #6 (**permalink**) 11-17-2006

I am doing the Awlgrip job myself, in our shop. I have removed all the deck hardware almost 100% the only part i have not removed it 2 long pieces of teak in the cockpit, other than that all the stantions, toe rails, hatchs, windows, ports, companion way woodwork, cleats, we spent 2 solid days removing stuff. The previous owner did pattern drilling on the deck in some areas that were bad, so i also went over the whole entire deck with a layer of 12oz glass and west system, right now i am working on sanding some more spots then will be working on taping off and priming the entire boat. I am going to spray with HVLP sprayer.

Scott

sailingdog · #7 (**permalink**) 11-17-2006

I hope you are aware that AwlGrip has serious warning about spray application, as the use of a sprayer will release aerosol cyanide-based compounds and can be very hazardous to one's health without the proper protective gear. Also, there are fairly rigid regulations regarding spraying such paints IIRC.

If you can remove the two long pieces of teak, I would highly recommend it, especially since you've gone through all the work of removing everything else already.

1970Columbia34 · #8 (**permalink**) 11-17-2006

Yes I understand how bad spraying awlgrip can be, I have spoke to the rep at midwest marine coatings about it and what is needed for a respirator. Plus with using HVLP equipment you really cut down on the amount of over spray. As far as regulations I have not looked into that, since we are painting in our own priavte shop and not in some boat yard somewhere.

The problem with the long teak board it the fact that you can't get to the backer nuts on the board, trust me I wish it could be removed.

Lecy · #9 (**permalink**) 11-17-2006

A sealant like Sikaflex 291 would be a good one for rebedding the hardware.
3M 5200 is too tenacious. Also, you can't use a polysulfide on plastic so Boatlife Lifecaulk isn't recommended.

sailingdog · #10 (**permalink**) 11-17-2006

The air pollution regulations with regards to spraying cyanide-based compounds probably don't care whether you're doing the spraying at home, in your basement, at a private shop or in a boatyard. You may even need a permit to spray that stuff... In some areas, a permit is required and the proper ventilation equipment is required to capture the dangerous fumes. YMMV.