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Volvo Injectors

6K views 35 replies 9 participants last post by  QLite 
#1 ·
Clean, replace or Seafoam what's my best bet. Sluggish acceleration and rough idle, could be original to my 1987 Motor AFAIK.
 
#4 ·
Should have no problem finding a rebuild shop. Typically around $100/pop.
 
#5 ·
Injectors should be rebuilt every 1,000 hrs. Volvo uses common Bosch injectors, so no need to buy from them at inflated prices. Any industrial diesel shop can rebuild them or sell you new ones.

We last had ours rebuilt at Baltimore Diesel a few years ago for $60/each.

Make sure you replace the copper crush washers, as well as ensure you have removed the old ones (they sometimes stick in and you don't notice).

Mark
 
#12 ·
I have a 2001 i need to pull and have rebuilt. Mine is fussy starting unless i cold start sequence it then it's up and gone in 3 cranks.

If you have time pics of what it looks like out would be great. Ive never pulled a injector before and there is no services close by to have some body do it.
Aside from the fuel lines i think there is only 1 bolt holding it down.
 
#13 ·
If your Volvo has the copper sleeve, you need the tool that will extract the injector, without pulling the sleeve out. We have the sleeve as well on our TAMD31S and I believe in our case, the sleeve holds coolant back from flooding the cylinders (stupid design if you ask me). Ours also requires injector cleaning every 400 hours. At the first cleaning, I bought new, so that I would have spare set to have overhauled, when I need to do them next. They were $370 each.

With our turbo charged motor, proper injector pattern is very important. Just cleaning isn't enough, they need to be tested too, so a reputable shop is important.

I waited for the overhaul, because I've been told that leaving new injectors on the shelf for years is not good for them. Some say you can store them in diesel fuel, however. I'm now heading into round two and decided to do a core exchange with my original set, rather than have them overhauled. That's about $200/injector, but I get new injectors and don't risk a bad overhaul or poor spray pattern.

Finally, if you have no washer at the bottom (neither do I), you have to clean the seat the injector sits on. This is especially necessary, if you see soot or burn pattern up the side of the injector, as combustion was sneaking past. Volvo also sells a nylon brush that fits down the hole, but you may be able to source a generic version. I cleaned them up with some spray carb cleaner and brush. Give the cleaner time to dry out.
 
#15 ·
If your Volvo has the copper sleeve, you need the tool that will extract the injector, without pulling the sleeve out. We have the sleeve as well on our TAMD31S and I believe in our case, the sleeve holds coolant back from flooding the cylinders (stupid design if you ask me). Ours also requires injector cleaning every 400 hours. At the first cleaning, I bought new, so that I would have spare set to have overhauled, when I need to do them next. They were $370 each.

With our turbo charged motor, proper injector pattern is very important. Just cleaning isn't enough, they need to be tested too, so a reputable shop is important.

I waited for the overhaul, because I've been told that leaving new injectors on the shelf for years is not good for them. Some say you can store them in diesel fuel, however. I'm now heading into round two and decided to do a core exchange with my original set, rather than have them overhauled. That's about $200/injector, but I get new injectors and don't risk a bad overhaul or poor spray pattern.

Finally, if you have no washer at the bottom (neither do I), you have to clean the seat the injector sits on. This is especially necessary, if you see soot or burn pattern up the side of the injector, as combustion was sneaking past. Volvo also sells a nylon brush that fits down the hole, but you may be able to source a generic version. I cleaned them up with some spray carb cleaner and brush. Give the cleaner time to dry out.
I have a RWC 2002 twin I don't know if I have the arrangement you speak of. I don't think so reading the responses in this thread.

I have a local guy set to test and clean maybe he can help me with removal suggestions, so far simple prying hasn't done it.
 
#21 ·
Al:

I got my injector removal tool from
marinepartsexpress.com

Call them up. They are knowledgeable and friendly.

It wasn't that expensive. Don't mess up your sleeve. If you can't get one, then let me know and I will lend you mine, but the shipping would take a while.
 
#22 ·
If the extractor tool is universal to all Volvo injectors, my part number is 885131.

Marine parts express lists it for $80. I'm sure I paid less on Ebay. They are relatively indestructible, so I would buy a used one in a heartbeat. However, it's worth it to have aboard, if you ever need to troubleshoot in a pinch. I would pay the $80, if I had to. A misfiring engine could be nursed enough to get home, if you just pulled and cleaned an injector tip.
 
#23 ·
Thanks to you and DJ. I'm calling MPE now I've dealt with them before and he's good. My guy will be good for injector service but the onboard stuff I need to be able to do myself. If its more than I want to do in season I'll wait for winter. The shop did suggest if the sleeve comes out its best to have the block drained so it doesn't get in the cylinders. I may do that as a precaution its RWC so draining should be easy.
 
#24 ·
It makes sense that there is a specific tool for this a Minnwaska notes.
These engines are old and it is easy to get yourself into a death by a thousand paper cuts scenario. If your sleeves are corroded then most likely your refurbished injectors will leak. Then you are off to replacing the sleeves. Might as well do a valve job at the same time, maybe quick clean/hone the cylinders, ..... You get the point, you don't want to dump too much into this engine. No matter how much you put in it will still be an old VP 200x. It sounds like the engine is running pretty decently now.
 
#25 ·
Point taken, but isn't Boat ownerships in general the same thing. This Motor is solid now and aside from the long warm up has preformed flawlessly, sure its old but I'm old too and I still work pretty good. Before I would spend a down payment on a repower for repairs I will repower. I can do 100% of the work saving probably 50% on the job and when it happens I will have a Boat worth the expense or at least I will have convinced myself of that.
Push to shove I could bring it home and aside from some machine work do everything myself but I would have a brand new old Motor with outrageous repair parts costs so that's not the way to go either.
For now I will do the prudent maintenance and deal with the big ticket when it happens.
 
#28 ·
That's the setup with the one exception my retainer is on a stud so I cant twist the Injector as pictured. The puller or a slidehammer was suggested by my Diesel shop. This account is curious as they say the head needs to go to the shop if the sleeve comes out, my luck it will. Not sure I like that idea.
 
#30 ·
I recall that because the fork is trapped in the injector slot, you have to loosen the injector a little, then loosen the nut, and go back and forth to wiggle it out
 
#34 ·
Updated

I had the injector pulled and re-tipped.

It came out fairly well. 2 fuel lines removed going to and from the injector and one nut holding the injector down. We screwed a brass nut ontop of the injector. I put a bar under the nut working from the front of the motor and the mechanic rocked the injector back and forth with a wrench and it popped out. Mine has a copper sleave that stayed put thankfully.

The injector tested fine on the bench but after being re tipped the guy said it was spraying a lot better. I was not present for the install but he said he sprayed the sleeve out with air and put a mirror and light over the sleeve and said every thing looked good.

Fuel system bled easily and it did fire up reasonably fast. Mechanic just used the manual pump on the motor to push all the air out. I did use the cold start as it seemed to be cranking a lot. Motor fired up fast with cold start sequence.

We left the boat for 15 minutes to settle up and i tried starting again with out using the cold start. Seemed to start better.
I tried starting again today, air temp is 55 F (and might of been colder in the boat as it was a miserable day) and it took a lot of fussing to get started with out using the cold start sequence but it did go after 30 seconds of cranking But once the engine had warmed up it started very quickly. Before doing the injector you could run that motor hard and shut it down and starting would be hard.
 
#35 ·
Thanks for the update. I haven't done mine yet waiting for the winter down time in case it takes longer than it should (doesn't everything) BTW I use my cold start every time even hot outside that's what the OP told me, I don't recall trying without so maybe ill do some experimenting.
 
#36 ·
I have removed the injectors with the slide hammer method and on 1 or 2 of my 3 cylinders the sleeve came out with the injector. I replaced the sleeve and the sealing "O" ring with out removing the head. I did use the specific volvo tools to remove the remaining sleeve and the two tools to insert and then flare the tip of the new sleeve. BTW, my shop manual does not show the pages previously copied here. No wrench and turn method, etc..
Attached is the only page in my manual that discusses the injectors. I've added some notes that describe how/where I've experienced some coolant leakage around my sleeves.
 

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