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  #11  
Old 12-05-2006
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Another alternative would be a modern spar varnish. It is tung oil modified with urethane and what boat makers are using to finish their interiors. You can thin it to any degree you want, and a thinned first coat will penetrate and seal deeply; then you can finish with a heavier coat. A good brand is Man-O-War, and it is available from Ace Hardware in either gloss or mat, canned or aerosol (aerosol doesn't apply well in tightly enclosed areas, incidentally).

It is popular with people refinishing wooden gun stocks because of its sealing properties (prevents warping) and beautiful finish when hand rubbed. For those who want hand-rubbed paneling in their boats, this is the way to go; just kidding.

The product is made for your application, and will probably match the existing finish better than other methods.

Bob

Last edited by jones2r; 12-20-2006 at 01:51 AM.
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One reason I like using epoxy, rather than urethane, is that it does soak into the wood a good deal, rather than just being a surface layer. Ideally, you should coat the wood on all sides... but removing the wood is a royal PITA... so that usually doesn't happen.
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Any of the above mentioned products will soak into the wood quite weel if the first coat is thinned. Urethanes, single part epoxies...any will suffice. I would go to a paint store farthest from the marinas and purchase a mistinted single part epoxy or urethane in a light colour and at a deep discount. Then do all the bare wood and maybe paint whole lockers to match if I was in the mood. West would do the job quite well but really is overkill in this case and hard to justify. It is, however, quite simple to mix and use.
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2 or 3 coats of minwax poly urethane and the untreated wood will be like it was dipped in plastic. The polyurethane is thin and will soak in whereas the epoxy products are thick and do not soak in as much.
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Min-Wax Poly has been my choice for years but even the 'Satin' finish I applied to some added cabinetry has a higher gloss than the rest of my teak and just doesn't look right. What can I use to 'rub out' some of the shine without scratching it or dulling it too much ?
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Will west systems epoxy make wood totaly waterproof? Ive been working on an idea to rebuild my icebox, and im thinking of just making it from 1/2'' plywood and then epoxy the whole thing.
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The epoxy might make the surface waterproof, but there will still be condensation into the wood on the other side of the barrier to worry about if you decide to use ply
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What about if both sides are epoxied and covered with a layer of mat. Im trying to find some way other than building a mold to make it from fibreglass. Maybe i should build a mold, then see if i can sell some smaller icebox conversions for Pearson 36 owners.
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"What can I use to 'rub out' some of the shine without scratching it or dulling it too much ?"


Try double O steel wool on a section. There are flatening agents to kill the gloss that can be added before coating.
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On a boat, I would use bronze wool or an nylon scrubbing pad. If you use steel wool and it sheds steel wool bits. ..you get rust pox every where it drops a bit.
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