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Rod Rigging

2K views 6 replies 6 participants last post by  Barquito 
#1 ·
The boat I am going to be getting soon has rod rigging. Looking (way) ahead, do you think it would be reasonable to rehead the rod, rather than replace? This would be a preventive measure, on what is most likely fairly old rigging. This would be for mostly coastal cruising.

My thought is that rod rigging doesn't have a very kind failure mode, but, would be expensive to replace all the ends to change to wire rigging. If the rod takes the reheading OK, then it would probably be healthy for a long time.
 
#2 ·
Why not take this opportunity to go to line rigging? I can't imagine it would be that much more expensive than wire or rod, by the time all is said and done. I understanding the weight savings aloft is tremendous.
 
#4 ·
It is my understanding that when you re-head the rigging you have to replace all the turnbuckles (need to be longer) so it may be about the same price as replacing with wire or synthetic. I am looking at the same decision. I likely may go with synthetic, but will look at all options, so hope to see some discussion here.
 
#5 ·
At the very least I would open up all the heads and lanacote them to ensure they are not galled and have freedom of movement.

Rod usually fails when the head can no longer rotate with shock loading from waves.
 
#6 ·
Barquito, odds are it is Navtec rigging on a C&C?

If the rigger who is doing the inspecting is an authorized NavTec shop, they'll probably recommend a full "Class A" inspection for rigging that is more than a decade old. That means pulling the stick and taking the rig apart, which is the only way you can properly test the ball heads and other fittings for stress cracks, i.e. dye lux or magnaflux testing.

A bit pricey but....at least you can be certain about the results.

If you can't trust the shop for their opinion on whether reheading is advisable or even possible, or economical, then you need another shop. This is not DIY work, that's part of the mixed blessing of rod rigging. On the plus side, you'll never get meathooks in it.(G)

If the designer and builder spec'd rod, I'd stay with rod. If nothing else, because one day in the far future you might want to sell the boat--and the next buyer will be expecting rod rigging.

If you need to go cheap, DIY and that's all there is to it.

And if you want to feel like rod rigging is a really good bargain? Just ask 'em what the price for Dyneema or another synthetic would be.(G)
 
#7 ·
Paging Bob, paging Bob Perry:

Do you see any problem with changing to wire or line rigging on the Valiant 32? I understand you think the V32 was a little too stiff. Maybe less weight aloft wouldn't be desireable?

I think I would prefere to change to wire rigging, but, was told it would be involve more new parts than just replacing the rod. I would consider DIY if I did wire.
 
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