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Hurricane Matthew leaves me a parting gift.

5K views 45 replies 19 participants last post by  Bleemus 
#1 ·
Hey all,

So about 2 weeks ago I bought a beautiful and unique Yamaha 30 sailboat. Look it up, I had to. :) S/V Fiddler's Green. My first boat. A culmination of several years of dreaming, moving across the country to Charleston SC, saving money (not too much), and convincing my "two of a kind" that we could be a "full house." Magic, people. I love her. Both of them.

She is currently docked in Georgetown, SC. Which is about 24 miles north of McClellanville, which is where Hurricane Matthew decided to gently kiss the land, before skipping off on his merry way.

I been the seasoned and resourceful boat owner (2 weeks), did what I could to prepare her. I took off the mainsail, used extra docklines to center her in a slip, away from the dock on starboard and derelict sailboat on port. I even tied up the derelict extra to keep her off of Fiddler's Green. I had FG tied by 6 points of contact. Turns out, that couldn't stop Matthew.

The dock on my starboard side got pulled by another boat, which pulled me into a piling, and somehow ripped the chock away from the toerail and deck. This left a sizable hole right on the deck/hull joint, and also bent the toerail up, causing it to pull 5-10 bolts through the joint down the starboard side. Brutal.


Attached some pictures for your viewing pleasure..

Ok. Questions abound. Principally, how do I fix it? Fiberglass repair. This is new. Haven't had to do that in all my 2 weeks of boat ownership. I'm pretty smart, and fairly handy. Just need a little direction. I'm sure you all will steer me in the right direction.
 

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#4 ·
That's painful to see.

Given that joint is structural, I would get a pro to look her over. Beyond restoring the joint, it looks like some tough work to match non-skid and the colored stripe. These projects often cause all of it to be redone, because it's hard to blend. Sorry for your trouble.

Insurance? Could be an economic total loss fortunately/unfortunately. I was hit by another boat, while asleep, on a mooring. It cost $7k to repair much less damage to my bow.
 
#5 ·
Talk about bad luck. I feel your pain.

As Minne says, what is the insurance situation? I had similar damage to my previous boat when it was hit on its mooring by a powerboat during a summer squall. The hardest part of the repair was the toerail. Yard could not find the same one. It was either change both sides completely or attempt to repair the damaged section. We opted for the second and it actually turned out pretty well. Even so the repair was over $5k and that was over 20 years ago. Today it would be over double that.
 
#7 ·
Hello JD, So sorry about your new boat! That sucks! Now, these other guys are all correct, but I'm thinking thousands of dollars is out of the question. I am no expert and that would be a deal breaker for me. If that happened to my boat, I think I might just glass the joint, the deck to the hull, over the best I could. That is my first thought. Might be able to glass it inside and out. Probably be pretty strong. Maybe if you ground the hull and the deck and did as good a job as you could, maybe bend the toerail back or just cut it off. Glass work is so forgiving, just grind it down to where you like it. Like I said, that's my first thought. You are not going around the world in her and a person can get pretty artistic with fiberglass repair, or epoxy repair, whatever. Maybe someone will come up with a better, cheaper idea. After a while you wouldn't even notice it. I feel for 'ya. I know that harbor and river. Used to be a shrimper there in my younger days. It's a tough place to have a boat with all the tides and river flowing. Kevin
 
#8 ·
Damn, great timing on your boat purchase.
As others have said, to get a professional "glass guy" to fix that will end up being quite expensive.
Materials to fix this will not cost that much if you decide to try and fix this yourself as I did with similar damage.

If you don't know much about using epoxy than that is the place to start.
WEST SYSTEM | Use Guides

You can also make molds using a mold release agent to make the epoxy set up in the shape of the hull. Some plastics like milk gallon hdpe and even plexiglass do not adhere well to epoxy, especially if treated with a mold release agent. Very thin plywood can also work but will bond to epoxy requiring more sanding once forcibly removed.

Gel coat can be applied over cured epoxy despite what most can labels say.

Keep the water outside the boat, repair the damage and go sailing. You will learn a lot along the way.
 
#11 ·
Sorry for the damage to your new baby. My first boat had almost the exact same problem. Although being a sunfish made it slightly different. I agree it is an issue for insurance if you have comprehensive, they may be buying you a new boat.

If you were to fix it though I suggest you remove the toe rail to see how far aft the damage goes.

You would need to grind a taper on both sides inside and out of the damaged edges.

Use cardboard covered with saran wrap to create an edge inside the boat. Tape it into the hole where your hull-deck joint used to be. Do your best to shape this edge to make a nice shaped interior angle.

Remove that piece and lay some wetted out fiberglass strands and tape back into place to create an interior structure bonding the hull and deck together.

When this dries you can remove the cardboard and saran wrap. Then start outside of the boat to start adding layers of glass and matt to build up the exterior of your new hull to deck joint.

This worked for me on a sunfish but I am not sure how safe or structurally secure this method of repair would be on a larger boat.

Check out this guys videos to see how to do a structural repair of fiberglass.

 
#12 ·
Yamaha 30s are not unique and rare everywhere... quite common in our parts. Do you have the 'engine under V berth' version?

Bummer about the storm damage.. the prior posts sum up our situation quite nicely. I'd see about an insurance settlement first; after that I think it's a repair that could be done DIY with some forethought and good advice. Might not be as pretty as original but could well be functional.

Structurally that's a pretty solid part of the boat, small section etc. I think if you can get good access and use epoxy you could get a plenty strong enough result.
 
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#14 ·
Hey all. Thanks for the encouraging words and the advice. Insurance claim has been filed. We shall see what comes of that, but based on information here I will probably pursue DIY. Again, thank you all for what you've said. So easy to get discouraged in this situation.

My trepidation with the repair comes mostly from inexperience. I will be researching more on the specifics of laying epoxy soaked glass and what products are best.

The fact that the majority of the damage is the deck worries me. My initial thoughts on a plan of action are this. Please point out the flaws of each:

1. Cut away all jagged edges on the deck and hull, and smooth them out with a grinding tool, with some beveling towards the outside.


2. Starting with a clean surface, laying soaked fiberglass in strips starting from the inside to form the 90 angle, and then layering up from the outside to come flush with the deck and hull.

3. Smoothing out after curing, painting with gelcoat, smoothing out and topside paint to match outer surface.

4. Marking and drilling new holes for bolting the offending chock and toerail.

Obviously some details omitted. Anything glaring? I am worried about the integrity of the area, as the deck portion is plywood and fiberglass. Is there a need for replacement plywood? Will the fiberglass be strong enough for that area? I realize these are hard questions to answer since you can't examine the damage itself. I just wonder about that fact that it's at the joint, rather than say a hole in the hull.

Last question. If I were to tape it sufficiently to keep water out, is there any reason it wouldn't be able to make the 60 mile trip down the ICW in non-hurricane weather to my home port of Charleston, or should I do the repairs where she sits?

Thanks all again for the conversation and encouraging words. Makes me feel like I'm not alone in this!!!
 
#15 ·
Sorry to see the damage - I believed I talked to the previous owners when they had it for sale on CL - it was just to far to go to look/buy for me in Central Florida - nice boats , raced on the Yamaha 26 once - the 30 looked like a very interesting boat - one caution - I believe the engine is under the v berth - from what I have read that created a few issues with a long run of the shaft and issues with water backing up the exhaust,
Good luck fixing it - there will probably be a lot of work to go around for fiberglass guys the next 3 months.
 
#16 ·
Glad you passed up on her ;)

From what I can tell she's a fast boat. Haven't sailed her yet, thanks to Matthew. But that will happen and when it does there will be no small amount of satisfaction from me.

Yep, the engine is under the V-berth. Pretty unique. Very long shaft. No issues with it thus far. PO just had the cutlass bearing replaced and the stuffing box is working well. I had my mechanic do a survey on it prior to purchase and some education/maintenance after purchase and the engine is running well. Now to deal with the new port light in the bow.
 
#17 ·
I think you're going to have to unbolt a significant portion of the toerail to get it out of your way, then find a way to straighten it a bit before reinstalling.

I'd probably fashion some sort of mold (cardboard and wax paper) and tape it into place from below, then get a partial outer skin started after the appropriate cleanup and beveling (make it a wide bevel, I believe 10-12 to one is the ratio to get a good bond on the new skin) Once that initial work has set up, then you can glass from the inside with something to build on. I think I'd go back outside for finishing work/final build-up and attempting to match the deck as best you can after that.

You might be able to confine the repair area to the sheer stripe and need only to repaint that afterwards, but that depends on how the piling scars on the bow section clean up. You could be in for a paint job to truly 'make it right'.

Hopefully your insurance comes through.
 
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#18 ·
Interesting. So laying an outer layer first, then coming from the inside to fill in the gaps, and then going back outside to build it up?

Piling scars aren't bad, i don't think they really cut into the gelcoat too much. I'll know more when I can scrub her down. But I imagine a new topsides paint job is in my future.

The toe rail sections off about mid beam. Which means I only have to unbolt 100 bolts instead of 200. I just know I'm going to drop some in the water.

Speaking of which, is it feasible to do this repair at the dock, without hauling? Aside from the paint job of course.
 
#19 ·
wot the rest sed.
PLUS find a local expert in fg repair to consult before you start to mess up your boat more... i learned from a yotbuilder of dubious honor and repute-- hank mckune of yorktown yot fame... i learned a lot from him.
best of luck--btw--patricia broke my mizzenmast and some other awesomenesses on my now i gotta fix entire boat. join the repair club and smile. just think how much you will learn about repairs as you go. that should help you get thru the bs and pain. sorry your boat got hurt.
 
#21 ·
I wouldn't pretend to know the right way to repair the OP's deck/hull joint. For that matter, I wonder if the bolts that are holding down the toe rail are integral to strength of the joint. Something to consider, before removing them all, especially in the water or if planning to move the boat after removal.

I also suspect the insurance company will want confirmation of an appropriate repair before they are willing to insure it again going forward. Whatever appropriate is. They will send a surveyor to examine the damage, who may provide that input. It's still possible they declare it a total loss and the OP is looking for another new boat anyway. If I was in their shoes, that would probably be my most desired outcome. I wouldn't want to have to explain the repair to the next owner, when trying to sell. Especially a first time DIY repair.
 
#23 ·
Agreed.

I've been researching total loss claims and how that works. If they declare it, I might have the opportunity to buy it back salvaged, or let them keep it. Re-insuring would then be tricky. But the policy wasn't hard to come by in the first place (e.i. did not require survey). Time will tell.

In the meantime I appreciate peoples thoughts on how to pursue repair. Advice seems to suggest that a proper fiberglass repair should provide the strength to the area.
 
#25 ·
Self survey was required, my mistake.

Geico Marine Insurance.

I too am very interested. Though really I'd rather just learn how, make the repairs, and go sailing. That's all I really want. If insurance helps with repair costs, awesome. If not, no big deal.
 
#26 ·
If it were me, I would be ok with just taping over the hole(s) well for the 30 - 50 mile trip to your home port in fair weather. I'd want to inspect it during the trip to make sure there was no flexing that might loosen my tape covers.

If it is deemed a "CTL" (complete total loss) you will have a chance to buy it back from them for something like $800. You would then receive a check for the hull value MINUS the buy back cost and you likely will have trouble re-insuring it, been there done that.

To Minnie's point about the insurance co.'s preferring a professional repair: they will not find you a "glass guy/gal", that will be entirely up to you. It is also highly likely that any fiberglass experts will be very busy after an event like Matthew so you will have to stand in line with every other damaged boat owner waiting for "the expert".

If it were me, I would do as Ron/Faster suggested; build up a stable outer (or inner) skin first and then laminate the heck out of it. Using cardboard with wax paper to make a mold is also spot on if a bit more cumbersome than using a mold release agent with a piece of thin acrylic/plexiglass which can leave a baby's butt smooth surface if done right.

If you are unhappy with your repair it can be either completely re-done or touched up by you or someone else. There is a lot that a ton of sanding can hide in terms of your mistakes. You will need a full face respirator for this kind of activity though.

There is nothing that can't be fixed with more time and money.
;-)
 
#28 ·
Hey all, just an update in case anybody was wondering.

Insurance company designated my boat a complete total loss. They are giving me the opportunity to buy it back for 800 bucks. Additionally, they are willing to re insure the boat if I fix it. With the same deductible and coverage, and a small increase in my premium. Pretty amazing actually. I have nothing bad to say about GEICO marine insurance for sure.

Now I just have to make the decision.

Door #1 - Salvage it. Receive the claim minus deductible, 4/5 of the money I bought it for. Search for another boat to destroy...err.. buy...

Door #2 - Salvage it. Buy it back, receive 3/5 of the money, and attempt to repair the damages. I have a professional that will do contract work, probably won't have to haul it. Could sneak away under 2 grand for the repairs. Which leaves me 1-2 grand to put towards other projects.

Door #3 - Salvage it. Buy an RV and move far, far away from the water... jk... maybe...

I know what I'm leaning towards. What would you do?
 
#29 ·
Buy back have professionally repaired take the difference and do an upgrade on something that you really wanted, new sails? new nav system? new what ever, pocket the money and invest it at a high yield (not apple stock) and enjoy your boat
 
#30 ·
Get another boat, without a damage history. This one will simply be worth much less, even with a good professional repair, when you're done. If you cut corners so it looks good enough, it will be worth even less. Buyers can choose from thousands of 30 ft boats where they don't have to wonder if the repair is good. There is no savings to repair in this scenario. Thankfully you had insurance.
 
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