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Toe Rail

3K views 18 replies 12 participants last post by  757guy 
#1 ·
I am about to replace the toe rail on my Ticon 30. The rail is Mahogany, I would like to put spacers under the new rail about very 12 to 18 inches to lift the rail off the deck. Have any of you seen or done this and do you see any issues. discussion would be appreciated. Tad
 
#2 ·
Unless you plan to lift it quite a bit - like an inch and make it into a bulwark, don't do it - it will just fill with dirt & crap.
 
#4 ·
My toe rail has three tiny slots per rail. Those things fill with crap. Having almost the whole rail raised, there would be plenty of space. Would still be hard to keep clean. My boat has the hull to deck joint under the toe rail. Would be a very good idea to raise mine. What kind of hull to deck joint do you have?
 
#11 ·
I would think putting it up on spacers would weaken the hull/deck joint. Typically, the toe rail also serves to strengthen and stiffen this area.
As long as you don't reduce the number of fasteners raising the toe rail will increase the section modulus and make the boat stronger. This is the same reason I-beams are used instead of solid shapes.
 
#5 ·
I don't know that it would be necessary to raise the toerail its entire length - but generous drainage ports at the low point of the sheer (with extras forward and aft for trim changes) would go a long way to preventing puddling and pooling on deck.

I'd seriously consider making the new toerail taller to make a more effective foot stop, and to allow for deeper cutouts where you want/need them.

btw - you'll have a lot more luck bending the toerail to the curvature of the hull if you use the boards 'on edge' rather than flat (without steaming, that is)

Years back I replaced a wooden toerail (probably slightly different hull/deck joint) and changed it from what was there (left) to what is on the right. The overall effect wasn't much different, but it had proved impossible to bend the teak planks on the flat.

 
#8 ·
The deck/hull joint is a shoebox joint, that is what it looks like to me. I plan on raising the rail two inches to allow good drainage. The strength issue is worth a good hard look but I don't plan on using the rail to tie up anything that might stress the connection. I would love aluminum but price wise it is out of the question for now. I would like to see some pictures of other boats with this arrangement, so any links would be appreciated. Thanks for the feed back.
 
#9 ·
You need the strength for when you slide across the deck on a wave and your full weight (and momentum) needs to be stopped at the deck edge. IMO this is a safety issue.

A 2 inch gap would be overkill both for drainage and for keeping it clean, and the added overall height would be more difficult to make adequately strong due to the increased leverage the rail would have when stressed.
 
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#12 ·
Another option would be to fasten a new wood toe rail directly to the deck--presumably like the original--and cut out scupper holes to allow deck drainage, as in thumbnail #1. You might then attach an outboard genoa track that would help stiffen the toe rail locally to support a midship cleat, which I find indispensable for tying up to a dock (thumbnail #2).

FWIW, my toe rail is original and was apparently properly bedded 26 years ago, because I don't have any issues with water getting underneath it. As you see it, it has been varnished (Epiphanes).
 

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#13 ·
That's funny Barquito. i can see me or the Admiral with her toe stuck under the rail screaming bloody murder about how stupid I was for raising the blankety blank toe rail !! Anyway I will ponder this for a season. the rail must be improved so further though is necessary. thanks
 
#16 ·
I have a Ticon 30 (#124, which I believe is hull #24) and toe rail replacement is on the extended to do list, I was considering using faux teak. A new Jeanneau 40 at our club has them and they look good. What ever you decide on, post some pics or PM me with what you ended up with.
There is a Ticon 30 facebook page, in case you haven't seen it.
 
#19 ·
We are going to replace our teak toerails and are considering the faux stuff. Do you have any idea what brand they installed? The two I've looked at are Flexiteek and Plasteak. The hook is that we have a Pearson and the base has to be grooved to fit over the deck bolts. I'm guessing that they are a wash for price. Any info would be welcome.
 
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