Sole alternatives

[Newport41]

The forward section of our cabin sole, from the mast forward, is seperated by a two inch step. It needs to be replaces and I'm not too fussy about matching the rest of the cabin sole because the step creats a nice seperation. We can't really justify the expense of teak even though that would be our first choice. My question is, are there any other options other than going down to the fiberglass below the existing teak and holly. There is a nice looking finished glass floor underneath but I think we really want wood. Any suggestions?

[Newport41]

Just before I remove the rotten piece of bulkhead aft of the mast. Were do I get replacement material. It's a 6' x11'' pice of wood but I haven't figured out what it is. Do these things tend to be teak plywood of some sort? I'm a little green when it comes to interior wood work.

[Faster]

What is already there was probably teak plywood (on the bulkhead) - but it will be difficult to replace without buying a full sheet of plywood. That will, of course, leave you with lots for future projects.

The sole, if you want to keep the teak and holly look, can be made with a 1/4 teak and holly marine ply over a ordinary marine ply substrate that you could glue up. However this is still not inexpensive, the 1/4" overlay runs around $240 CDN a sheet in our area and again you don't really need a full sheet. You could ask around your boatyard etc. to see if anyone has a leftover piece that would do your project.

If you are not real comfortable with interior woodwork, esp. the bulkhead, it may be wise to engage a good joiner to replace that piece, as it may well be a structural element.

[Newport41]

Thanks, that's more or less what I thought. I think the only way to get comfortable with it is to do it.

[hellosailor]

Newport, you might look at the options for covering or resurfacing the step. Any flooring supplier will call "Pergo" and other flooring materials, most are a wood top laye finished in a very durable finish over 1/4" of composite materials. Inexpensive if you can buy trim or molding pieces or a split pacakge of it. Sometimes a decking supplier will also sell you a couple of pieces of decking lumber (ipe wears like teak) for a nominal cost. And then there is genuine wood veneer, or Formica type coverings, both fairly easy to apply over existing materials with a razor knife and contact adhesive.

I'm all in favor of making steps out of contrasting material--it makes them less of a tripping hazard when people can see them clearly.

[mike dryver]

newport41 where do you live if there is a lumber liquidators near you the price of teak is cheapoooooo! and they could prob get you a piece of holly. then all you need to do is put by your marine ply or good quality ply substrate mill your teak and holly finish cut to size and finish coat for bungs ect. your done. the teak you can get up to 18 ft lengths all is 5/4 finished planed for decking! that's right decking as in outside for your house. granted it is probably platation grown, but if is cheap (and it is kiln dried) it should be pretty good regards

[Newport41]

I think I'm going to look into the price of prefabricated teak and holly veneer over marine plywood. If I can get a sheet for $240 like Faster says I might be able to do it that way. If not, than I think I'll opt for the Teak deaking and lay it myself, I can live without the holly inlay. thanks all

[Concordia]

If you're on a tight budget, one option is to forego a true marine plywood as your substrate and use exterior grade plywood from a building supply center. Often the major difference between the two is that marine ply has more layers of wood. Both use a waterproof glue, such as Resourcinol. If wet, marine ply will last longer due to the multiple layers of thin wood (i.e. less movement that can lead to breaking the glue bond). Assuming you've plugged the hole that lead to the rot of the existing floor, it will be suitable to use the exterior ply. When glueing, I prefer to use an epoxy or the new waterproof polyurethan glues such as Gorilla Glue. When laminating, make sure the grain of the substrate and your teak/holly veneer run perpendicular to each other to prevent warping. You might want to consider laminating both sides of the substrate for ultimate protection against warpage, though this is a bit of overkill. Vacuum bagging is the ideal way to clamp. What I normally do is sandwich the lot between melamine covered particle board, weighed down with several evenly spaced cement blocks. You should also seal all the edges and the bottom with varnish/paint to limit moisture wicking into the edge grain (the ideal solution is to edge band the whole thing with 1/8 inch solid stock). One excellent project for the leftover teak and holly is a cockpit table - mine turned out beautiful, though a bit heavy.