Aristo Blue Awlgrip Pictures - Page 2 - SailNet Community

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post #11 of 24 Old 12-31-2006 Thread Starter
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should the awlcare be just rubbed on or should it be power buffed? i already have bought some.

Yeah i thought about the awlcraft 2000 and it was considered, but I talked to a few painters and talked me into the regular awlgrip, i don't clam to know everything about the paint process and know i have alot to learn, but its been alot of fun.
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post #12 of 24 Old 12-31-2006
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Awlcare...rub on only...never use a buffer on it!
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post #13 of 24 Old 01-01-2007
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Camaraderie mentions an excellent point regarding paint. Whether for auto or boat paint varies from can to can, even in the same batch. Ask any body man who has found himself just a little short on paint when doing a car. He pops open another quart, from the same batch of paint, sprays and it doesn't match. He then spends half a day blending it in. That job takes a lot of skill and experience.
Don't tell me about "factory" paint, batch run numbers, etc... It happens and the reason doesn't matter. And with the price paid for the coatings were talking about the fix can easily put one over budget.
The solution is to buy more paint than needed, as Cam suggested, and mix it all together prior to application. After all of the paint has been mixed you will have one color. Now it can be returned to it's original containers. The excess is best stored in the smallest container you can find. If you've got a quart left in a gallon can, transfer it to a new quart can. Store it where temperature extremes are minimized and it doesn't hurt to shake it up good once a year.
For those with no experience with this I would emphasize that the color variations will not be obvious to the eye; in the cans, during application, or even indoors in the painting booth (esp. not under flourescent light), but only after drying and in sunlight. It will be particularly noticeable at twilight when the sun's rays are more horizontal.
Cruising your local mall can illustrate the point. Look at the front fender/door jamb line on the parked cars. It won't take you long to find one that's "just off", imagine if it were your boat!
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post #14 of 24 Old 01-01-2007
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That will be one very nice looking Columbia 34! And you have done everyone a favor by eliminating its previous graphic glory. I'm sure, based on seeing some of his other boats (esp. Ondine) that Bill Tripp would approve both the color and the workmanship.
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post #15 of 24 Old 01-01-2007
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Nice Job, Scott -

I'm wondering what your striping plans are - though I'm sure you'll show us all soon! The high freeboard of the Col34 could sure use some visual lowering.

Nice to have a good facility for your project too!
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post #16 of 24 Old 01-01-2007 Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone the last look of the boat I am sure the previous owner like it but it was not for us we are looking for more of a classic look for the boat.

our plan for the stripes is starting at the bottom 4" white stripe with 2" gap between bottom paint and the first stripe, the 2" space and the another 2" white stripe. Also we will be doing a 1.5" stripe at the top that goes through the center of the port holes, and at the stern there will be a break for a Columbia logo. I will post pictures when we get them on after this weekend.
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post #17 of 24 Old 01-16-2007
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columbia

Does the plastic sheeting you used to cover the bottom paint come with adhesive pre attached? What is it called and where did you buy it?

If it doesn't come preattached how did you attach it?

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post #18 of 24 Old 01-16-2007 Thread Starter
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No the plastic we used was just vapor barrier from lowes 2mil 10'x100' $20. we just attached ours with masking tape. I know what you are talking about though and you can get the plastic with the tape already on it at any local autobody store, but I think you will find the its going to be to short for a boat project.

Scott
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post #19 of 24 Old 01-16-2007
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did you post the finished pictures yet?
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post #20 of 24 Old 01-16-2007 Thread Starter
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