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Sailboat Air Conditioning?

24K views 33 replies 15 participants last post by  Brent Friedenberg 
#1 ·
Has anyone used products from Ocean Breeze. We are looking at the 18500 btu model for our 34'. Any advice?

Scott
 
#2 ·
I had a carryon that came with the boat.I gave it away. Unless I was living on the boat with dock power, I can see no need nor do I want to have to make that much power. Fans work fine for me. Not sure what your needs are thou. I have seen regular ole household window ACs rigged with a down draft used on livaborads at the dock.
 
#3 ·
I agree with wildcard, sleeping directly in front of the fan works for me in any temperature I have encountered while travelling. Even in the tropics sleeping in a hot camper a fan was all I needed to sleep comfortably. I think I would be okay on the boat with a fan even without a wind scoop.
 
#4 ·
Scott,

I noticed you have not gotten any replies on the Ocean Breeze so I thought I would chime in.

I have NOT used Ocean Breeze, so I cannot give you a specific rec there. However, I have used Cruisair on my last three boats and have been very pleased. Never had a problem heating or cooling with them. Period.

I would like to give you some thoughts:

1) 18500 is a big unit. You might be better served with a 16k or two 12s. My reasoning: The power you get on the docks is usually horrid. You might find yourself tripping the breaker in some marinas. We tripped them in the heat of the summer when our 16 and 8 (I think it was an 8) kicked on about the same time. Our way around it was to boot up the 16 first, then the other (sorry, I cannot remember if it was an 8 or not now). But, you get the picture.

2) The tendancy is to wire in to the existing dock power coming into the boat, and that may be a mistake for the reasons listed above. Put the A/C on its own shore in. Most marinas have two 110s out for that purpose. Worst case scenario, we would carry a pig tail with us. It costs a little more, but you will come to thank me.

3) Plumbing. When you plumb for the water, do NOT use the pice of crap strainer that comes with it. GO buy a large bronze strainer (the bigger the better, to a point). THe small strainers trash up so quickly (especially in the warmer waters) you won't believe it. You will be down there cleaning the strainer three - four times a week if you don't use a large strainer.

4) T-Fitting. Obviously you will put in a strainer on the outside, but we also plumbed a "t" above the T-Hull with an on/off valve above it. That way when you sick up a palm leaf or plastic bag (which you will do) you don't have to dive the T-Hull. Just open the valve above and plunge a coat hanger through it which will clear the strainer. This is also very useful for hooking up a water hose to flush the unit with clean water and priming.

5) T-Hull location. THis is very important: DO NOT put your t-hull in the stern. Put it in the lowest part of the boat. AC's lose their prime very easy and every time a sports fisher goes by you will lose your air conditioner if you do not put the suction low. This will also minimize the junk you pick up in the tropics and elsewhere.

6) Accesibility. THe T-Hull should be very accesible for clean out, or you will come to hate your air conditioner.

Hope this helps. Best of luck to you. Sorry I could not give you a rec on the Ocean Breeze, but maybe a little helpful information otherwise. Cruisair is a good product.

- CD
 
#5 ·
Thanks CD. Were are trying to cool our 34' Columbia. We are located in Lake Huron in the Great Lakes. We sail out of Bay City Michigan so we are not sailing in the tropics. You think the smaller 16k unit will do the job? I have a perfect place in the bottom of a hanging locker for the unit. What about the T-Hull Strainer being about mid ship. Does the Unit lose its prime during sailing? or are you just worried about it losing its prime while its operating. thanks.

Scott
 
#6 ·
Well, I have not lived in Michigan, but I can say that we had a 16k unit on our 320 in Texas and it did fine (where the temps will often go over well over 100 in the summer). The trick is that if it gets too hot, you can put a cover over the cabin top. I think a 16k would be more than fine in Michigan. Use a reverse cycle and you can heat the boat too. Will your generator push it, or do you have a generator? Startup on those are high. Heating will draw more than cooling, i fI am not mistaken.
 
#7 ·
Yeah if we hit 100 hear in Michigan its rare, but its not uncommon to be in the mid 80's. The deck is white with a light...light gray non-skid. If it were up to me i would say we don't need it but my wife on the other hand like the idea of cool sleeping conditions and even heat so we can extend our sailing season here in michigan. We just plan to use it on shore power here at the Yacht Club. You think i thin to run a seperate shore power cord just for the 16k unit though. I am looking at the 115v model.

Scott
 
#8 ·
Scott..Can't help you on Ocean Breeze either but CruiseAir and MarineAir are 2 good brands I've worked with. I think cruise air may have swallowed marine air.
Just replaced a 16K unit with this one this past year and am quite pleased with it:
http://www.cruisair.com/sheets/L-0734.pdf
CD gives excellent advice on what to look out for and I too think a 16k would work fine on a boat your size and in your location.
The loss of prime is very common during sailing even if your through hull is low. The solution requires removing the pump hose at the pump and "bleeding" which means some salt water in the boat...SO...be sure to locate the pump in an area where this will not matter and where you can do this routine job easily in a couple of minutes. With through hulls close to the center line, I've never lost prime while running or at anchor for extented periods...but I am always SURPRISED when I have NOT lost prime after sailing! The big strainer idea is excellent and given your water temps CD's suggestion #4 is a must. I had to dive 4 times this summer to clear debris from my intake. Thankfully the water was 75 degrees...but sometimes it took quite a while to get everything out. I would hate to have to do that in 60 degrees!
 
#9 ·
Scott,

I always have run a second. It will cost you a bit more... but who knows, maybe you don't need to??? Your decision. Easier to do it up front then pull it back apart, though. I will say that most of my experience with dock power is in a salt water environment so it is corosive on the wiring - thus, poor electrical feeds from shoreside.

80's in the summer?? Phew!! You will be FINE with 16k!!! Shoot, when it is in the 80's here (Texas) and S Florida, I am pulling on a coat and shutting down the hatches (just kidding, a little). And with the reverse-cycle function, you can heat and really extend your cruising range.

Best of luck.

- CD
 
#10 ·
We are not in salt water so that should not be a issue. I will have to think about what I want to do. Its not a big deal to run another shore power hookup but your right its a added cost and the need to having to haul another power cord around to other marinas. I assume you still run the new shore power cord to the electrical panel with a breaker right?

Scott
 
#12 ·
If you mean running the shorepower to a seperate breaker on the marina power, yes. But remember, you have at best a 30amp breaker on most marinas (though some use 50's and it would not be a problem). Add up microwave, charger, and other items, and you could be getting close to that 30amps. Throw in a AC system, and you might go over it. Also, how old is the wiring in your boat and how strong are the connections? Any corrosion? Power loss?

Again, I set mine up for maybe a little seperate purpose than you do. Still, I guess the new shore would cost you 2-3 hundred bucks (including the cord). You can also try putting in the second shore and just pig tailing to see if you trip the breaker. It is the cord that is the expense. That way you already have the box in if you start tripping tripping the breaker but don't have to worry about buying the cord unless you need it. A compromise... like hedging your bets.

http://www.marinco.com/scpt/ProdPage.php?loadItem=153AY_Marinco Shore Power

http://www.marinco.com/scpt/ProdPage.php?loadItem=303SSEL-B_Marinco Shore Power
 
#15 ·
Well, just try putting the supply box and go to (err, hmm, West Marine) and buy a pigtail and see if it trips it. If it does trip the breaker, return the product to West and order a shore cord online (save tax, cheaper, etc). Like I said, hedge your bets. The real power useage wont come from the cooling, it will be the heating... in my experience. Still, you never know - you might even trip with cooling.

Best of luck Scott. Write back if you have any questions.

- CD
 
#16 ·
Scott...Our new 16K btu unit runs at about 16 amps A/C115V. At startup she pops up to about 22. So... if you don't use the A/C along with the microwave or while the battery is on bulk charge...your existing circuit should be OK.
I've found that a lot of marinas don't have DUAL 30 amp plugs available when they are crowded so if you can keep everything off a single cord, that is better for those situations. Another way to go is with 2-30 amp inlets running from a split 50AMP cord but that will run you around 700 bucks for the cords and splitter. Probably not worth worrying about as you can always choose one 30 amp feed instead of the other but at least you have the options.
 
#17 ·
Yeah I checked and the "Y" splitter from 1-30amp to 2-30amp is like $200 on defenders website. The 50' cord is only $90 i will have to check at our new marina what we get for dock power outlets and that may influnce my decesion. how much does a normal microwave draw?

Scott
 
#18 ·
$200 for a splitter??? You kidding me? THat is freaking rediculous.

I wonder if you could just wire a crossover internally. That would be cheaper. Or just forget it and go buy the cord. Easy for me to say, it is not my money. But the questions is: How much do you love your wife. Better yet, the question is: how comfortable is your cockpit?
 
#20 ·
A positive vote for Ocean Breeze. I purchased a split 12,500 btu system from them for installation in my 30'r. To minimize noise in the saloon the compressor sits in a cockpit locker, with the remote air handler in the cabin interior. It was competitively priced, and has been dependable. Michael
 
#22 ·
CD...yeah 8-9 amps is typical for a microwave on AC circuit. As to splitters...it is absolutely amazing the prices that are charged but there is no getting around it. Checkout the difference between a 30Amp power cord at $50 bucks and the same in 50 AMP...about $500!! That's why I love big boats...so I don't have to decide how much $$ to leave to my kids!
 
#24 ·
Another contribution for a manufacturer other than you asked for :) We installed a Mermaid 16.5K R/C unit two summers ago. The unit is under the settee amidships and ducts into the saloon, aft cabin and forward cabin. Works great. Ditto in the strainer fouling. One of the best warranties in the biz and good customer service. Only down side... they take the units back to FL to do any work.
Regards, Red
 
#25 ·
I brought back the carry on a/c from Boat/US. Did not cool off the interior. I went to an R/V dealer and picked up a Carrier a/c unit and placed it into the galley hatch of my Pearson 36. The hull is dark blue and gets very hot in the summer, no shade. It just drops into the hatch and I keep it in all of the time. Works of the dock 110V via and extension cord.
 
#26 ·
Ok we are looking and leaning towards the mermaid 16.5k with reverse cycle heat. How does the reverse cycle heat work and should I worry about the water temp? We are sailing in lake Huron and I have no idea what the water temps get down to during the sailing season.
 
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