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Three methods were typically used to add stripes on hulls; Tape. A painted stripe over the top of the originally laid gelcoat (post removal from mold), or the stripe was incorporated into the original gelcoat layup.
If the stripe is tape, you can usually lift it with a heat gun. Try it at an inconspicuous area first.
If you conclude stipe the is paint, and it is not showing through (bear spots) or badly chipped, I would try rehabilitating it with the advice in THIS thread before going the nuclear rout in replacing it. Good Luck.
Is the hull painted? Or gel coat? If not painted the stripe will be smoothly flush with the surface.
If the stripe is visibly proud, I think I'd go to the low visibility area under the transom and do some gentle scraping to see if it comes off in flakes or as tape.
Another place that will give some clues is where it crosses the stem at the bow. If tape it's usually quite obvious on close inspection.
3M make all sorts of clever tools, like a rubber "wheel" you put in your drill that will take off paint and tape without hurting the frp under them. Between that, some other unique "wheels" they make, and a heat gun, you should have no problem. Dig around on the web, or stop at any auto body shop supplier to ask about the 3M tools. They also make solvent sprays that will help release anything fast.
That looks to be the OEM colored gel coat. Follow the sticky instructions "Tips for componding..." for hull prep in the link above and that stripe should come back as good as new.
Paint or tape would have a distinct edge. Tape would not have the width variance you see in the original boot top - the stripe gets wider where the topsides bows out so the stripe line looks straight from the side.
Good Info from Sailingfool
Pearson of that vintage used gelcoat for their 'boot stripes'. This was applied to the hull mold before layup of the other laminate schedules.
A first attempt and if this is indeed the OEM gelcoat stripe, consider to flat wet-sand with wet and dry paper 320->400->600 grits. If that improves the 'luster and color', then 1000-->1500 grit, then PowerBuff with an appropriate fiberglass buffing compound (Presta, etc.). Pearson gel coat was typically ≈1/32" thick, so dont get 'carried away' with the flat sanding.
If no improvement, etc. and you decide to 'paint', be sure to first apply an epoxide primer 'barrier' and then SPRAY-on the paint you desire .... and then flat sand, etc. and power-buff. If you dont apply a moisture proof epoxide primer-barrier you risk 'pop-outs' of the paint due to water penetration of the hull laminate which will 'lift' the paint.
I prefer Signature finish paints (urethane-acrylic co-polymer) over epoxide primers for bootstraps Signature Finish and Honey Teak Products - Home.... applied multi-coat 'thick' with a spray gun- such as a hand held aerosol spray device ... PreVal spray bottles ..... https://www.amazon.com/Preval-0227-...489073500&sr=8-1&keywords=preval+spray+system
I successfully restored the boot stripe on my prior boat, and plan to do it this spring with my current boat. I used MaineSail's procedure on the posted link. Don't be afraid to go at it with wet sandpaper (probably 2000 grit), followed by a good polish with an electric polisher (I like Presta Cutting Creme), then wax (I like Collinite 885 Fleetwax). Get all the chalky oxidation off and it will look like new. You might want to do the polish/wax on the entire hull.
I concur with Take Five. Mainesail procedureif toy follow gives outstanding results
Don't skimp on the heap with the electric polisher. HUGE difference using the Makita. The money you spend on the Makita pas back in the job and ease for years to come
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