Windlass Switch Options?

[1970Columbia34]

So were are adding a Windlass to our boat and I am trying to decide do we want a switch in the cockpit near the helm, or foot switches up on the deck near the windlass? In people opnions which is better, for someone sailing singlehanded?

[Giulietta]

I have installed both. My material is Lewmar.

I have 2 foot switches at the bow, (one up one down) so I can do it there if I need, and have a switch at the wheel, in case I am alone and need to be at the engine control.

To me its the best solution because you are covered if single or with someone!!

Avoid the fancy hand held ones, most of the time when up front you need both hands, either to untangle something, or to grab for dear life.


Hope I helped

Here is a photo.

[sailingdog]

The switches up on the fore deck should be either far enough away that you can't have your hands on the rode and accidentally step on the switches or should be a remote corded switch with the same idea in mind. I've known a few sailors that are a few fingers short due to a power windlass with chain rode.

I would also add that any cockpit switch should have a cutout so that someone in the cockpit can't accidentally trigger the windlass while you're working on the anchor rode up on the foredeck.

You could add both, but the cockpit one would definitely have to be on a relay of sort to reduce the size of the switch and the wiring.

[Giulietta]

Originally Posted by sailingdog

The switches up on the fore deck should be either far enough away that you can't have your hands on the rode and accidentally step on the switches or should be a remote corded switch with the same idea in mind. I've known a few sailors that are a few fingers short due to a power windlass with chain rode.

I would also add that any cockpit switch should have a cutout so that someone in the cockpit can't accidentally trigger the windlass while you're working on the anchor rode up on the foredeck.

You could add both, but the cockpit one would definitely have to be on a relay of sort to reduce the size of the switch and the wiring.

Yes, agree, good point I forgot, switches far away, mine also have lids to help protect the switch, and to avoid accidental anchor release. Only works if lid is open.

And Lewmar comes with a relay box that you install on the anchor compartment, near the windlass, to avoid the big thick cables.

[stonecutter]

I have a foot switch at the bow and for safety reasons a key switch at the helm . my system is Hydraulic (3000 inlb torque) drag my 36 fter on to a dry beach or off.
SV STONECUTTER II

[PBzeer]

On mine, I put and up/down at the helm, and used the existing up foot switch at the bow. While there are times it would be nice to have down as well at the bow, I didn't feel it was worth the time or money to put one in. Since I singlehand, what I do when preparing to anchor is **** the anchor off the bow roller so it will fall when I use the down switch. When raising, once the engine is warmed up, I place the rode back in the roller, center the boat, then put it in gear at idle, while using the bow switch to raise it. Has worked well for me to this point. Having two switching stations requires a relay for hooking them up if you are using up and down.