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Manual sink faucet in pressure water system

1K views 12 replies 8 participants last post by  hellosailor 
#1 ·
Q: I plan to install a manual water pump downstream of a pressure water pump. Will this work, or am I asking for trouble?

Details:

My current pressure water system uses a simple Jabsco pump. No accumulator tank. It feeds, through a filter, directly to two faucets; the head and galley.

I am replacing the head faucet with a manual Fynspray brass version. It will draw from the same pressurized line so it has to pull water through the pressure pump AND be able to block the line when closed (not leak due to the pressure in the line).

Bypassing the pressure pump would be a major project (copper piping), so I’m hoping this will work. Am I nuts?
 
#3 ·
Pretty sure if a manual pump is connected to a pressurized water line, it will not shut off but just run water continuously. The two valves in the manual pump basically act like check valves, allowing flow from inlet to outlet. You will need to run a separate line from before the suction of the electric water pump to the manual pump in the head.
 
#4 ·
Assume the new fynspray is it's own pump.? If Jabsco is functional it will continue to pump through to sink drain. Would need positive off/on valve somewhere. If not functional., no water to sink. either way not ideal. Pec and crimp fittings so easy .Suggest T before and after Jabsco for second line and accumulator on pressure side
 
#6 ·
Thanks folks. Looks like I’ll have to bite the bullet and figure out a way to T before the pressure pump. The confounding issue is that my water system is plumbed with rigid copper tubbing. It’s lovely stuff … until you have to start working with it.

Ah well … I got my answer (although not the answer I was hoping for). Thanks.
 
#9 ·
Mike, I will have to take a look at mine, but I believe I have a T fitting before then pump and a cut off valve on the manual pump that must be turned off if I use the electric pump or it will suck air.

I will be going to the boat later this week and let you know by the end of the week.

Gary :cool:
 
#10 ·
Gary is correct. If the tank is much below the pump it would find it easier to suck air down from the head than up. Would need a positive off in the line,open to hand pump and shut again after you rinse tooth brush. Sounds like a nuisance. However PEC is the way to go and adaptor solder on to Pec crimp is available .It's so cheap consider changing it all to PEC Many dudes with tools have the crimper and will lend.
 
#11 ·
Damn … this little project is turning into a major PITA. Of course you’re right Gary/Len, I bet the pressure pump will suck air through the manual. I was going to install a shut off valve anyway, but now I have to think about placing it in a easily accessible spot. Or… would a simple rubber stopper work on the faucet? Hmmmm… I’ll have to experiment before final choices are made.

I’ve never used PEC stuff, but I’ll consider it. This job would be a nothin’ task if I wasn’t dealing with solid copper piping. Oh, and the existing facet is set on my head sink through beautiful ceramic tile, so there’s that factor as well…

Maybe a few wraps of plumber’s tape will keep the leak down to a dull roar, and then I can go back to ignoring it :)
 
#13 ·
"Bypassing the pressure pump would be a major project (copper piping),"
Nah. Not true at all.
What you need to find is a real plumbers' supply, or maybe an Ace Hardware store. They sell things called "saddle taps" aka "vampire taps". this is a basically a 2-3" long pipe that has been cut the long way in half. You slide the two halves right over the existing copper water pipe, tighten them together with supplied screws. Then you screw in the "vampire", which punctures the old pipe. Throw away the vampire and attach your new line to the stub it came out of.
Honest, no need to reinvent the wheel, or to wonder what kind of pump mechanisms there are that might be fighting, obstructing, or damaging each other.
Just make sure you know what diameter tubing you need the vampire for, before you go to the store.
A little work with a hacksaw and a T can also do the job. Real plumbers would solder, but these days, they make compression fittings so no soldering is needed. And epoxy, if you really want to cheat.
 
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