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"I disagree on filling the block with 100% antifreeze. " No you don't. You are just misreading "antifreeze" to mean "pure undiluted antifreeze" (whatever that may be) as opposed to "antifreeze" meaning, as most of us do, coolant mixed as indicated on the label. Antifreeze is like coffee: You may order and drink a cup of coffee, but we both know you wouldn't touch it unless there was already water in it.
SOME antifreeze is actually sold premixed, so using it "undiluted" and "pure" will give you a 50-50 mix. Most is sold "pure", but you'd have to be nuts not to follow the instructions and mix it 50-50 (which works pretty well) or as appropriate for the temperature range and use.
The old stuff--the ethylene glycol base--is still a lot of different products. Some are incompatible with aluminum engine parts. Most have silicon silicate ("waterglass") in them or other anti-leak chemicals, which form a thin coating in the coolant passages to prevnt corrosion and leaking, but inhibit cooling. The popular antileak products can be a bad idea--unless you're leaking. The old stuff is almost always tinted green/blue.
The new "orange" stuff is more complicated. It is supposed to last much longer (doesn't break down from engine heat) but there are reports it is dissolving engine hea gaskets and wreaking other mayhem in certain systems, folks might want to search on that topic. Halvoline (Texaco), GM, and others make it and still stand by it, and many new cars are shipped with it. While facts are hard to come by, one thing they tell you up front is NEVER to mix the old and new stuff, an engine should be flushed before using the new stuff and failure to do so, leaving old contaminants, may well be the only real problem.
Then of course there's the 'pink' stuff, that's intended for R/V and summer cabin water supply lines. Non-toxic, breaks down quickly in heat, not for engines at all unless you're pouring it in the raw water intake to winter flush *that*.
Last edited by hellosailor; 02-07-2007 at 01:04 PM.