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  #61  
Old 10-10-2011
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  #62  
Old 10-10-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloopJonB View Post
One thing I haven't seen mentioned here is electropolishing of stainless hardware. I read up on it and then talked to a local shop that does it. After that I had my chainplates, keel fastenings, lifeline stanchions etc. all electropolished.

The process uses electric current in a nitric acid bath - a little bit like the electroplating process in that regard. The process removes all the free iron molecules from the surface of the metal down to .001" - 0015". This leaves a pure surface of chromium, nickel or whatever alloy is used with the steel to make it stainless.

By removing the free iron molecules, there is no "path" for oxidation to gain entry to the metal, hence no place for crevice corrosion to get a foothold.

Obviously this surface must be maintained free of deep scratches and so forth or it must be re-done afterwards but it has worked very well for me so far - out in the salt air and weather for several years and still looks the the day I installed it - not a hint of discolouration or brown staining.

I can't recall for sure how much it cost but it wasn't much - something like $175 for all the rigging along with the keel fasteners and backers IIRC.

I highly recommend it.
electropolishing in it self does not prevevt the corrosion of the iron. the follow up process to the electropolishing called passivation is the process of using nitric or citrus acid to remove the free iron from the surface. electropolishing removes a layer of all the metals in the stainless alloy the same as cutting, grinding or machining and so the iron expossed to the surface will oxidize if it is not passivated before being expossed to moisture. stainless does not have to be electropolished before passivation and the passivation process can be done by it self at much less cost.
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  #63  
Old 10-10-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overbored View Post
electropolishing in it self does not prevevt the corrosion of the iron. the follow up process to the electropolishing called passivation is the process of using nitric or citrus acid to remove the free iron from the surface. electropolishing removes a layer of all the metals in the stainless alloy the same as cutting, grinding or machining and so the iron expossed to the surface will oxidize if it is not passivated before being expossed to moisture. stainless does not have to be electropolished before passivation and the passivation process can be done by it self at much less cost.
Everything I read as well as what I was told by the people in the shop that did it says that electropolishing and passivation are basically the same thing - electropolishing is the process, passivation is the result.

If, as you say, they are different processes, how is electropolishing performed?
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  #64  
Old 10-10-2011
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As far as I know electropolishing and passivation are the same, as SloopJonB posted.

Here's a link explaining the process.
ELECTROPOLISHING PROCESS
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  #65  
Old 10-10-2011
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You can do passivation in place after a repiar that would cause problems BUT the acid is life and death stuff

The spotless stainless is the consumer grade passivation

And when it is all said and done i still see crevice issues happen over time in the welds of UV chambers that were done to very high standards and had nothing inside but really pure water
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Old 10-10-2011
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I just bought a 1975 Ericson. I have no idea when the rigging was last replaced. But since I only sail in a lake I thought I could just wait and see. The boat in the next slip owned by a friend is a 1976. I think it is a hunter. It's owner had the port shrouds shortened as they had streatched over the years. A week later, in a race, the upper shroud snapped. I helped him replace both port shrounds with new cable. It cost $67 for both cables and the swagging. I went up in a climbing harness tied to the main halyard and replaced first the broken shroud and then after securing that cable, the lower shroud. I thought he should replace the starboard side at the same time, but since they had not been shortened he chose to pass. The cost was not very high. It is making me think about replacing at least my shrouds and fore and aft stays.
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  #67  
Old 10-10-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
As far as I know electropolishing and passivation are the same, as SloopJonB posted.

Here's a link explaining the process.
ELECTROPOLISHING PROCESS
that looks like their interpretation of what electropolishing is and it is close but not entirely correct. there are many specific specs for electropolishing of stainless. the most common is where the material is cleaned in a solvent, electropolished and then passivated. electropolishing and passivation are not the same thing. here are the guys I send parts to every week Processes at Alloy Tech Electropolishing
the parts that ! manufacture are mostly Type 316L and 304 finished to a 15RA surface roughness and they always do a passivation after electropolishing
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Last edited by overbored; 10-11-2011 at 12:20 AM.
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  #68  
Old 10-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommays View Post
You can do passivation in place after a repiar that would cause problems BUT the acid is life and death stuff

The spotless stainless is the consumer grade passivation

And when it is all said and done i still see crevice issues happen over time in the welds of UV chambers that were done to very high standards and had nothing inside but really pure water
clean pure H2O is very corrosive and will corrode stainless much faster then tap water. When water is purified all the minerals are removed and this make the water chemicaly more active and will draw minerals from the stainless components in which it is contained. you will see the corrosion start right next to the welds in what is called the heat effected zone. it is where the metal has become heated to around 1500 degree f. which change the grain structure and makes it corrode faster.

Spotless stainless is made up of nitric and citrus acid.. they are the same acids that the pros use but in less concentration. so they need to left on the surface longer but will do the same job if the metal is clean so the aicd can get to the surface and dissolve the free iron
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Last edited by overbored; 10-11-2011 at 12:17 AM.
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  #69  
Old 10-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloopJonB View Post
One thing I haven't seen mentioned here is electropolishing of stainless hardware. I read up on it and then talked to a local shop that does it. After that I had my chainplates, keel fastenings, lifeline stanchions etc. all electropolished.

The process uses electric current in a nitric acid bath - a little bit like the electroplating process in that regard. The process removes all the free iron molecules from the surface of the metal down to .001" - 0015". This leaves a pure surface of chromium, nickel or whatever alloy is used with the steel to make it stainless.

By removing the free iron molecules, there is no "path" for oxidation to gain entry to the metal, hence no place for crevice corrosion to get a foothold.

Obviously this surface must be maintained free of deep scratches and so forth or it must be re-done afterwards but it has worked very well for me so far - out in the salt air and weather for several years and still looks the the day I installed it - not a hint of discolouration or brown staining.

I can't recall for sure how much it cost but it wasn't much - something like $175 for all the rigging along with the keel fasteners and backers IIRC.

I highly recommend it.
Is this somthing that you did to new or old stainless hardware? Would somthing like spotless stainless work just as well?
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  #70  
Old 10-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casey1999 View Post
Is this somthing that you did to new or old stainless hardware? Would somthing like spotless stainless work just as well?
Both. I have no knowledge of Spotless Stainless - this thread is the first I have heard of it.
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