Installing Teak Toerail - Page 3 - SailNet Community

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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #21  
Old 02-08-2007
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the teak toerail is is about 1.5" thick and will be bent with the grain. As for the teak I suggest you contact your local wood floor installer. We bought boxes of teak wood flooring for $20. yes is has a finsh and tung and grove but we just cut that off and ran it thru the planer to remove the finish. from the flexing we have done in the shop it should have no problems bending along the curve. and yes i will take step by step pictures.
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Old 02-08-2007
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teak rail

I'm very interested in your teak project. Mine's a 42' Vagabond ketch with missing teak bow toe rails ( Hurrincane Wilma). You can buy 1 1/2" thick teak floor rails? What length do they come in? Are you steam bending them to match the curve? very interested. thanks! chuck
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Old 02-08-2007
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no we have to epoxy 2 together to make it, we use epoxy to do that. no steam needed they will bend fine.
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Old 02-09-2007
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To clean up the mess of the 5200 do you suggest to tape each side to protect the paint of clean it with a chemical, if a chemical what works and do I clean it up right away our let it set a bit thanks.
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Old 02-09-2007
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Steam bending wood is easy but not what most people expect. We have a steam box and bend frames and steam the hood ends of some planks for boats we build. If you try to steam bend kilm dried wood you will not succeed. Wood needs to be green for steam bending to work. Teak is hard to steam bend no mater what you do because it is brittle and has a lot of oil which interferes with steaming.

In the past I have bent Teak cold for toerails and you just need to be careful and go slowly. I am surprised that you can bend teak flooring. It is very dry and if I had to guess before you said that it was bendable I would have said itís too brittle. I donít know the flooring business but the word in the shop is that they use Iroko instead of Teak. Iroko is a tougher less expensive wood but is even more brittle then Teak so its harder to bend without breaking.

One suggestion I would make would be to make the cutout for chocks and such after bending and bolting the toerail down. If you cut the toerail first it tends to break or at least bend unevenly at the cutouts. After it has set on the boat and the bend is fixed you can cut for the chocks without risking a break.

As far as clean up goes I always found it better to tape and clean as soon as possible. The less mess on the surrounding area the better.
Good luck and enjoy,
Robert Gainer
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The floor will be harder to bend I am sure then regular teak would be but from flexing it in the shop it looks like it would be a problem, Robert can you suggest a solvent to clean the 5200 with that won't damage the awlgrip topcoat or the pre-varnished toe rail?

We have also cut some of the flooring into slats for a cockpit floor and seats. There are lots of diffrent kinds of teak out there we got to choose between regular teak and a brazlin teak which we choose cause it matched our existing wood work better.
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Old 02-09-2007
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Here's what ya need...no problem on awlgrip. Just to be sure...you are not using those screws into the fibergless to maintain the bend you are inducing right?
http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store...sectionid=5296
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Well hoping the screws hold long enough for the 5200 to setup and if needed we will use clamps to hold the curve tell the 5200 sets up. thanks for the link.
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Old 02-22-2007
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Bed the whole thing. I have a toerail cap that I have to use Cetol on because it needs rebedding. I tried varnish several years but the moisture comes up from below because the seal has decayed (it has been about 35 years since it was applied). The moisture just lifts the varnish off the teak. Doesn't last more than a couple of months. Even if you are not planning to varnish it now, you might change your mind - so go with your choice, but do the whole thing.
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Old 03-02-2007
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I also had a problem with a toerail on a boat I chartered last summer in Sardinia - perhaps someone could assist. A long story short, as part of our docking maneuver(!), we broke off a stanchion mount bracket and a section of teak from the toerail of our chartered Bavaria 47. We were charged $3200 to have it fixed. Does this seem like a lot to you?
The 6 foot section of pre-cut toerail could probably have been ordered from BAvaria along with the stanchion mount. Bolt the new stanchion bracket into place and install the new toerail piece after removing the old. How could that cost $3200? We are disputing the charge with the credit card co.
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