Installing Teak Toerail - Page 3 - SailNet Community
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #21 of 31 Old 02-08-2007 Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
1970Columbia34's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Bay City, Mi
Posts: 319
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
Send a message via AIM to 1970Columbia34 Send a message via MSN to 1970Columbia34 Send a message via Yahoo to 1970Columbia34
the teak toerail is is about 1.5" thick and will be bent with the grain. As for the teak I suggest you contact your local wood floor installer. We bought boxes of teak wood flooring for $20. yes is has a finsh and tung and grove but we just cut that off and ran it thru the planer to remove the finish. from the flexing we have done in the shop it should have no problems bending along the curve. and yes i will take step by step pictures.
1970Columbia34 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #22 of 31 Old 02-08-2007
Senior Member
 
chuckg5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 182
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 10
 
teak rail

I'm very interested in your teak project. Mine's a 42' Vagabond ketch with missing teak bow toe rails ( Hurrincane Wilma). You can buy 1 1/2" thick teak floor rails? What length do they come in? Are you steam bending them to match the curve? very interested. thanks! chuck
chuckg5 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #23 of 31 Old 02-08-2007 Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
1970Columbia34's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Bay City, Mi
Posts: 319
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
Send a message via AIM to 1970Columbia34 Send a message via MSN to 1970Columbia34 Send a message via Yahoo to 1970Columbia34
no we have to epoxy 2 together to make it, we use epoxy to do that. no steam needed they will bend fine.
1970Columbia34 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #24 of 31 Old 02-09-2007 Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
1970Columbia34's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Bay City, Mi
Posts: 319
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
Send a message via AIM to 1970Columbia34 Send a message via MSN to 1970Columbia34 Send a message via Yahoo to 1970Columbia34
To clean up the mess of the 5200 do you suggest to tape each side to protect the paint of clean it with a chemical, if a chemical what works and do I clean it up right away our let it set a bit thanks.
1970Columbia34 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #25 of 31 Old 02-09-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Beacon, New York
Posts: 652
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
Steam bending wood is easy but not what most people expect. We have a steam box and bend frames and steam the hood ends of some planks for boats we build. If you try to steam bend kilm dried wood you will not succeed. Wood needs to be green for steam bending to work. Teak is hard to steam bend no mater what you do because it is brittle and has a lot of oil which interferes with steaming.

In the past I have bent Teak cold for toerails and you just need to be careful and go slowly. I am surprised that you can bend teak flooring. It is very dry and if I had to guess before you said that it was bendable I would have said itís too brittle. I donít know the flooring business but the word in the shop is that they use Iroko instead of Teak. Iroko is a tougher less expensive wood but is even more brittle then Teak so its harder to bend without breaking.

One suggestion I would make would be to make the cutout for chocks and such after bending and bolting the toerail down. If you cut the toerail first it tends to break or at least bend unevenly at the cutouts. After it has set on the boat and the bend is fixed you can cut for the chocks without risking a break.

As far as clean up goes I always found it better to tape and clean as soon as possible. The less mess on the surrounding area the better.
Good luck and enjoy,
Robert Gainer
Tartan34C is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #26 of 31 Old 02-09-2007 Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
1970Columbia34's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Bay City, Mi
Posts: 319
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
Send a message via AIM to 1970Columbia34 Send a message via MSN to 1970Columbia34 Send a message via Yahoo to 1970Columbia34
The floor will be harder to bend I am sure then regular teak would be but from flexing it in the shop it looks like it would be a problem, Robert can you suggest a solvent to clean the 5200 with that won't damage the awlgrip topcoat or the pre-varnished toe rail?

We have also cut some of the flooring into slats for a cockpit floor and seats. There are lots of diffrent kinds of teak out there we got to choose between regular teak and a brazlin teak which we choose cause it matched our existing wood work better.
1970Columbia34 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #27 of 31 Old 02-09-2007
moderate?
 
camaraderie's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: East Coast
Posts: 13,877
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 16
     
Here's what ya need...no problem on awlgrip. Just to be sure...you are not using those screws into the fibergless to maintain the bend you are inducing right?
http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store...sectionid=5296
camaraderie is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #28 of 31 Old 02-09-2007 Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
1970Columbia34's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Bay City, Mi
Posts: 319
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
Send a message via AIM to 1970Columbia34 Send a message via MSN to 1970Columbia34 Send a message via Yahoo to 1970Columbia34
Well hoping the screws hold long enough for the 5200 to setup and if needed we will use clamps to hold the curve tell the 5200 sets up. thanks for the link.
1970Columbia34 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #29 of 31 Old 02-22-2007
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Long Is.
Posts: 329
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 12
 
Bed the whole thing. I have a toerail cap that I have to use Cetol on because it needs rebedding. I tried varnish several years but the moisture comes up from below because the seal has decayed (it has been about 35 years since it was applied). The moisture just lifts the varnish off the teak. Doesn't last more than a couple of months. Even if you are not planning to varnish it now, you might change your mind - so go with your choice, but do the whole thing.
gc1111 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #30 of 31 Old 03-02-2007
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Posts: 1
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
I also had a problem with a toerail on a boat I chartered last summer in Sardinia - perhaps someone could assist. A long story short, as part of our docking maneuver(!), we broke off a stanchion mount bracket and a section of teak from the toerail of our chartered Bavaria 47. We were charged $3200 to have it fixed. Does this seem like a lot to you?
The 6 foot section of pre-cut toerail could probably have been ordered from BAvaria along with the stanchion mount. Bolt the new stanchion bracket into place and install the new toerail piece after removing the old. How could that cost $3200? We are disputing the charge with the credit card co.
jefftalan is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Little Harbor 38 Kerwood Boat Review and Purchase Forum 11 08-27-2007 06:49 PM
Techniques for Removing Teak Decks Sue & Larry Buying a Boat Articles 0 11-24-2003 07:00 PM
Homemade Teak Decks, Part Two SailNet Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 10-02-2002 08:00 PM
Homemade Teak Decks SailNet Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 08-01-2002 08:00 PM
Bristol Teak Tom Wood Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 11-02-1999 07:00 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome