Wax or polish - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 59 Old 03-02-2007
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Wow! Thanks Halekai, I printed out your post, and I will probably feel guilty every spring when I look at it and realize what a half-ass job I do on my boat. However, I do aspire! Lots of great info; I have been asking various folks for awhile to explain the difference between "polishing" and compounding or waxing, and yours is the first that makes sense to me. I do hope that I will someday have the time to do it right, but now, I find I barely have time to use the One Step product. I shudder to think what would happen if I actually had a big boat.....
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post #12 of 59 Old 03-02-2007
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Halekai
Have you or do you have anything written similar to the above for Awlgripped hulls?
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post #13 of 59 Old 03-02-2007 Thread Starter
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After reading all this, I have decided that waxing/polishing is best left to the pros. Halekai, can you come wax my boat? You are a polishing/waxing/buffing ninja! Thanks for all the info, I've got a lot to consider.

Last edited by Jotun; 03-02-2007 at 02:01 PM.
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post #14 of 59 Old 03-02-2007
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Halekai...awesome post...thanks!

K1....awlgrip is easy. NEVER EVER use anything with wax in it. 3M finesse-it is the product of choice for buffing after the hull is washed and cleaned with AWLWASH. Alternatively you can use AWLCARE for the buffing stage but it is more expensive and is probably the same thing! You don't use power buffers on awlgrip either unfortunately!

All you need to know about waxing awlgrip OR gelcoat HERE
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post #15 of 59 Old 03-02-2007
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thank you Mr Miagi.
AWLCARE and AWLWASH are my friends
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post #16 of 59 Old 03-02-2007
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Good Advise...... Tooo.... Good !!!

Yaa..... Halekai - Thanks a lot .... you just cost me $220 for tools At least I'm all set with the wax as I have a few tins of Tre-Wax already. The PS article made it seem to me a few years ago that for the very slight difference between the Fleet Wax and the Tre-Wax performance vs price and availibility the Tre-Wax looked good. The Tre-Wax tells me I can apply, let dry, and then buff the whole thing - Opinion on that ? ... or should I only let it barely dry - then buff as you instructed with the Fleet ? I had tried the 'spit shine' idea off and on but never with a sprayer - sounds good !
Thanks !

Stan
'Christy Leigh'
NC 331
Wickford/Narragansett Bay RI
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post #17 of 59 Old 03-02-2007
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Halekai,

Great post!! Awesome!! I am still trying to absorb it all, but I get the feeling my Turtle Wax is not cuting it!!

Just kidding.

Great post.

_ CD

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post #18 of 59 Old 03-02-2007
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I've never heard of non-skid sections on the topsides. AFAIK the topsides are the sides of the HULL above waterline, not the deck. If someone below says such-and-so "is topsides" yes, that means they are on deck--but they are not on the topsides unless they are rapelling down the side of the boat.

Non-skid sections can and should be waxed to prevent oxidation, just like the rest of the FRP boat. The difference is that you use a non-skid wax on the non-skid sections and the deck in general. Yes, there really are such things, the label will tell you if you've got one.

In theory polishes are more durable than waxes, but as to carcinogens and such...heck, even the common solvents that were used with organic waxes thirty years ago probably still require a solvent and carcinogen warning label. Personally I'd rather use a simple good wax than a miracle product, but 3M's professional lines of FRP treatments are also pretty good stuff. Just don't go huffing the bottle.

Rubber gloves? Yeah, probably a good idea whenever we're using "stuff" these days.

Doing it Halekai's way, the old fashioned way with premium waxes and elbow grease amplifiers, still produces a final result as good as anything else that's ever been invented.
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post #19 of 59 Old 03-02-2007
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AwlGrip

Unless you're a pro and really know what you are doing you can and will ruin AwlGrip if you buff it after it has fully cured. Many will tell you it can be done but it should ONLY be attempted if absolutely necesary.

When AwlGrip cures the solids and clear hard shine components migrate to the surface creating a very hard outer skin layer. Pictue the pigment sitting in the bottom of a glass and the clear LPU (Linear Polyester Urethane) floating to the surface like oil and water seperate. The problem with this skin of VERY hard material is that it is also VERY, VERY thin from .2 to .5 mills. If you buff it and happen to go through the skin, which you can't tell if you've done when buffing it, you will forever be a slave to it and NEED to keep wax on it to maintain a shine. I have done work with AwlGrip pre cure and even then while the stuff is curing it is not easy to work with. I advise NOT buffing AwlGrip and instead using their proprietary products.

Imron on the other hand can be buffed out with more ease than AwlGrip but again you need the right equipment and polishing pads. If your not sure the bottom line is DO NOT take compounds, polishes or waxes to Awlgrip other than the AwlGrip products!

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post #20 of 59 Old 03-02-2007
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Halekai-
Thank you! For just explaining a mystery to me. The Awl folks recommend only their special Awl-Polish (whatever) if something has to be used, and I kept wondering why their polish not anyone else's. I guess they've got a very low abrasive product, and they're silently afraid that anything else will tear the top color coat away. Very interesting!
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